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Ford did some nice changes to the 2017+ "mega" cam caps ( as they call them) located at the front of the cylinder head and controls the oil flow to VCT solenoids and houses the solenoids. The internal oil galleys are shorter and larger, allowing higher flow of oil to the solenoids. This is my opinion anyway
I'm feeling like I should be trading in for a 2017 or 2018 and sticking with that for many years vs the 11 :)

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I'm feeling like I should be trading in for a 2017 or 2018 and sticking with that for many years vs the 11 :)

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Right? My plan with the '11 was to keep it for 200k + now I'm thinking I need a '17 to do that... Then I'm sure in a few years I'll need a newer model because of some issue with the 17s that surfaces....


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Right? My plan with the '11 was to keep it for 200k + now I'm thinking I need a '17 to do that... Then I'm sure in a few years I'll need a newer model because of some issue with the 17s that surfaces....


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Always something, I guess its hard to find those bulletproof vehicles. Actually, as much as I've used it for my old job and it was as ugly as hell, the Astro Van was a champ. I pretty much took it to extreme with it. Awd was awesome too in the snow. It haven broken down one bit on me. Out of all the vehicles I've had, ten in total for years, Astro did the best. There are many on the road still too... Just sayin.

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My 2013 3.5 (Canadian model) has 43k miles on it and started the rattling in the last 500miles. I finally got some guidance from a friend and took it to ford. They tore it down and are replacing the chain, phasers, and one of the turbos. (I also had some intermittent performance issues)
 
My 2013 3.5 (Canadian model) has 43k miles on it and started the rattling in the last 500miles. I finally got some guidance from a friend and took it to ford. They tore it down and are replacing the chain, phasers, and one of the turbos. (I also had some intermittent performance issues)
Note, the rattle didn’t go away when the engine “warmed up”... which is a relative term since it’s in the 80s and 90s here.


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Here are the 2017+ cam caps which house VCT solenoids
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Here is the 2011-2016 for comparison

Much smaller and longer oil galleys. They are also much taller resulting in longer path required for oil to reach VCT solenoids. I will be trying a modification which machines them larger for more oil volume and see how it effects VCT operation

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My 2011 is running pretty smooth after the timing chain replacement. I pulled the intercooler off and cleaned it out, it was dirty but not as bad as I thought it would be, and I drilled the weep hole. I was getting that the shudder/hesitation on acceleration before the timing chain fix and that appears to be gone. I'm still on the fence about trading it in. I had the dealer print out all my service records and it says they were using 5w-20 for almost every oil change except 1. My OCI's weren't the best either, avg about 7000 miles. I don't tow much and def don't run the snot out of my truck, but still. If nothing else, this whole experience has been a great education on how these trucks work and how to maintain them. I will definitely be paying much closer attention on my next truck and will be avoiding the extended service plan with Ford.
 
Hey guys, wondering what the best approach would be on the timing chain issue. My truck is a '13, with just shy of 70k on it, and recently on cooler mornings I've had a couple times it's rattled. Once I heard it the first time, I had been taking video of my truck on start up, but didn't catch it since those were warmer mornings. This week it happened a second time, and wasn't on video unfortunately. I'm just going to video every morning upon start-up to have proof, but I'm trying to figure out the best approach to getting this fixed.

My truck is still under warranty, they gave me 5 year/100k powertrain at the time of purchase. I have a year left and 30k miles on the warranty, but don't want to wait til it's almost expired to get this fixed. Do dealers give some push back when you take it in and tell them you heard a rattle? Do they have to hear it for themselves? What's the best approach here when it's still very intermittent, and likely wouldn't show the symptom if I left it overnight for a Ford tech. Need some advice.
 
You're probably right, and I've read about 20 pages worth, but when the thread is 71 pages long it would be great to just get a quick helpful answer rather than the "go search whole thread" answer. Thanks for the input though, Champ.
I feel your pain :) I guess ill have to put together some informative post on f150ecoboost.com to help everyone else out get direct info but in regards to the forum, its 70 posts later because it took thst long for us to figure and test things out. Ford was in no hurry to let people know what to do, techs ignored the signs and didn't say much either because they had no clue on the issue. So that's how an issue becomes 70+ posts later.

In terms of the fix, I wouldn't wait. If your under warranty, get it fixed. Last thing you want to do is wait and do it right at or befpre your warranty ends and find out that it took another two years for it to come back again, finding out then that the dealer used the wrong parts looking at the wrong TSB. Now, out of warranty and 2 years after that job warranty, you have same issue and have to trade in or fix it with your cash of $3000+.

I'd rather fix it now, test it till the warranty run a out.

Either way, hard to say but I think I'd be happy not hearing that noise period.

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I feel your pain :) I guess ill have to put together some informative post on f150ecoboost.com to help everyone else out get direct info but in regards to the forum, its 70 posts later because it took thst long for us to figure and test things out. Ford was in no hurry to let people know what to do, techs ignored the signs and didn't say much either because they had no clue on the issue. So that's how an issue becomes 70+ posts later.

In terms of the fix, I wouldn't wait. If your under warranty, get it fixed. Last thing you want to do is wait and do it right at or befpre your warranty ends and find out that it took another two years for it to come back again, finding out then that the dealer used the wrong parts looking at the wrong TSB. Now, out of warranty and 2 years after that job warranty, you have same issue and have to trade in or fix it with your cash of $3000+.

I'd rather fix it now, test it till the warranty run a out.

Either way, hard to say but I think I'd be happy not hearing that noise period.

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I absolutely want to fix it immediately, I just need to know the best approach with the dealership to get it done ASAP. If they're going to require that their tech's hear the noise before they'll do work, I need to know what to do to be sure I only have to take it in once instead of waiting for the Ford tech to also hear the problem. With as intermittent as the problem is currently, I don't want them to keep the truck for an evening, tell me there's nothing wrong, and send it home with a $100 diagnostic fee.

How do I get them to fix this right away?
 
I absolutely wan to fix it immediately, I just need to know the best approach with the dealership to get it done ASAP. If they're going to require that their tech's hear the noise before they'll do work, I need to know what to do to be sure I only have to take it in once instead of waiting for the Ford tech to also hear the problem. With as intermittent as the problem is currently, I don't want them to keep the truck for an evening, tell me there's nothing wrong, and send it home with a $100 diagnostic fee.

How do I get them to fix this right away?
Its a hit or miss on that one. If your truck does it here and there, wait till temps are dropping outside by like ten degrees or more, at least from my experience that is when she did the noise more.

Also, if you leave it and they say they didn't hear it, tell them to keep it for another day and another, till they hear it.

Take a video of it before you drop it off and show it to them if they don't hear it on day two.

In my experience and for some other guys, the tech was smart and used the diagnosis to see the differences of values rather then listen for it. They kept my truck for two days, before going the extra step and running their diagnosis system on it.

My dealer was nice enough to not only go the extra mile but do both TSBs, fix by replacing all the parts, even show me the warranty bill sent to corporate which was 4800 and change vs 2600 something thst I hear from other source. So that would only mean double the work, double the TSB and double parts. While online everyone talked about a current TSB, the dealer also printed out the most recent one which we here didn't know about. So very depends on dealership.

That said, I'd take it to a dealership that has a lot that is two or three blocks big, that has a big reputation in your area. One that sells their inventory good. One that looks like a dealership of tomorrow not today, and I mean clean, nice building, recently renewed and restyled show room. The ones that are trying to sell, from a beat up looking like dealership wouldn't even look at my truck.

Hope that helps. :)

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That's certainly helpful. The other problem, my truck isn't throwing any codes. I guess I'll have to see how this goes...

Never had my truck in for anything aside from brake work and oil changes. Was hoping I'd get to skirt around this issue, guess not.
 
That's certainly helpful. The other problem, my truck isn't throwing any codes. I guess I'll have to see how this goes...

Never had my truck in for anything aside from brake work and oil changes. Was hoping I'd get to skirt around this issue, guess not.
No need for it to throw errors, they can diagnose it without those just have to find the smart tech and not the lazy one. I was -12 when I took mine in, codes are to pop at -6+ ... I was well out there with my tensioner.
 
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I absolutely want to fix it immediately, I just need to know the best approach
How do I get them to fix this right away?
Trade it off

You guys are lucky, at least Ford has issued the TSB now. My dealership gave me a flat tire and basically told me to f*** off even though I had video documentation of the startup rattle.

Say what you will about my response, but trading vehicles is really the only way that you will get this fixed right away and with as little hassle as possible.

Good luck at the dealership and I hope they are good to you
 
Trade it off

You guys are lucky, at least Ford has issued the TSB now. My dealership gave me a flat tire and basically told me to f*** off even though I had video documentation of the startup rattle.

Say what you will about my response, but trading vehicles is really the only way that you will get this fixed right away and with as little hassle as possible.

Good luck at the dealership and I hope they are good to you
Huh. Don’t get it fixed at an incompetent ford service center. Go to a good local shop who specializes in performance or is good with Audi BMW or vehicles that make our timing chain setup look like my sons toy train set. This is a job that’s easy, but must be performed clean, and right
 
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