Ok so some may know about this some may not but it is something that is coming on strong with many showings at dealerships across America. So as most know it is timing chains that are prematurely stretching causing this startup noise. The news is that there is updated parts out there to address this and Ford now has a TSB on this issue formally admitting to it being a common problem. I go over it all in this video. There is also a link to just how it sounds in the description of the video on youtube. Hopefully more dealers will be willing to dive into the engine with some guidance from Ford now.
Ford F150 3.5L Ecoboost Rattle Upon Start Up- Timing Chain Stretch Issues TSB
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makuloco2000
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Get a nap dude.
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I just want my truck to run without being all Jeb Bush clakkity clack and you have to go posting the Ecoboost porn. Dang man. um Send me one for Christmas?
I have all my parts on order (both tensioners) and a factory service manual off ebay. I am ready for a timing chain P-A-R-T-Y!! You're all welcome to join me if you like....
I just want my truck to run without being all Jeb Bush clakkity clack and you have to go posting the Ecoboost porn. Dang man. um Send me one for Christmas?
I have all my parts on order (both tensioners) and a factory service manual off ebay. I am ready for a timing chain P-A-R-T-Y!! You're all welcome to join me if you like....
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I just want my truck to run without being all Jeb Bush clakkity clack and you have to go posting the Ecoboost porn. Dang man. um Send me one for Christmas?
I have all my parts on order (both tensioners) and a factory service manual off ebay. I am ready for a timing chain P-A-R-T-Y!! You're all welcome to join me if you like....
[/QUOTE]Just take the front clip off and do the work like a gentlemen. Not a big deal taking condenser out and you basically sit right in front of your work and go about it cleanly an d mythically.
Confirm oil drain backs are looking clean, feeds, VCT solenoids, garbage for sure!! Clean the 52 oil holes in mega cam cap!!!!!
No silicone dust in everything.
Soak silicone from engine timing cover with a few rags of gasoline and then scrap it with whatever it turns to much .
Confirm phasers are in correct positions and gears not turned 60* deg to where it should be and snout lines up.
Trust me front clips 20 min of work, leaning over like ford tech did is just so unnecessary it’s crazy.
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Thanks for the nuggets of info! You know I thought about the front clip and condenser approach but I don't have the proper shop equipment to evacuate and capture the R134a. I see people on youtube just using a cheap vacuum pump and letting it evacuate to the atmosphere, but I'm pretty sure that's a Federal offense and not good on the environment. I suppose I could take it to a shop. Is there a way to do it without removing the condenser and refrigerant. I totally agree this is the best approach.
The mega cap to access the passages - I assume this involves removing all the camshaft caps and re-torquing? Don't tell me, TTY bolts right? Thanks for this, hadn't thought of that area, but makes complete sense.
Regarding cleanliness, I get all that, but when finished do you use oil to squirt down the face area to drain anything out of the oil pan? Any bits of dust would be forced out the drain hole? Is there a screen on the oil pump that can get clogged from sucking up the oil with bits in it? Just thinking of things to look at while I am in there. The front cover on this truck was previously removed to fix an oil leak, so I have no idea on how clean of a job they did. Just trying to keep my ecoboost from having another stroke!
The mega cap to access the passages - I assume this involves removing all the camshaft caps and re-torquing? Don't tell me, TTY bolts right? Thanks for this, hadn't thought of that area, but makes complete sense.
Regarding cleanliness, I get all that, but when finished do you use oil to squirt down the face area to drain anything out of the oil pan? Any bits of dust would be forced out the drain hole? Is there a screen on the oil pump that can get clogged from sucking up the oil with bits in it? Just thinking of things to look at while I am in there. The front cover on this truck was previously removed to fix an oil leak, so I have no idea on how clean of a job they did. Just trying to keep my ecoboost from having another stroke!
After doing this as a non-pro, I can tell you it is better to do more now than have to go back in there. The truck runs 100% better than it did but I was way out of timing and getting P0016 codes set all the time and the truck basically limped along. It still has 98K on it so it doesn't run like new. Looking at the valves while I was in there, I wish I could have spent the time to clean those as well...pretty coked up. I got over 90K miles before this problem and to be honest I'll be happy with 50K more before I trade it in. The way I look at it, I spent $1400, basically one month's payment on a new platinum truck.
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Yes, I already decided to do exactly that. Bought everything, all tensioners/guides, both sets of chains, AUX pump, water pump, crank gear, VCT solenoids, Phasers, every seal, etc. I'm at about $1200 for everything. I even have both tensioners coming so I can compare for myself.
A few questions for you,
1) Did your MPG or performance towing improve after the repair?
2) Did you perform the misfire monitor neutral profile correction procedure after the repair was done?
3) What's the latest method on valve cleaning? I plan on doing this while I am in there. I know some swear by walnut blasting, others say manual wire brushing? I'd be concerned about leaving metal in there from a wire brush. Any thoughts?
1) Too early to tell. Only has 50 miles on it since repair.
2) Not yet. No misfire codes yet but I will probably do it with my X4 tuner when I get the time. I left my 5 star tune on throughout the procedure.
3) I probably can't help much there. Seems like a lot of people are wire brushing but, like you, I'd be scared of not getting everything cleaned out of the cylinder. Might be a job for a few months down the road. With all the components I changed out, I wanted to minimize the variables that could cause problems on restart. Might take it to a local BMW shop for walnut cleaning and see what they say.
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No oring
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It is a must to do a crank relearn procedure (aka misfire monitor neutral profile correction.) You can do this on a live wire devise and maybe some other sct devises. It syncs your 4 cam position sensors to your crank trigger. If you log and monitor variable cam timing intake bank 1 actual (in degrees) you should see 0 to -60 degrees. If you see the intake cam roll to plus 3-4-5-6-7-8-9 you know there is an issue. This is extremely critical to monitor once the work is performed. It is confirmation.
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Can this value be used to identify a stretched chain to begin with? If you see timing go really positive at idle?
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It can be but not only at idle and it does not pinpoint only a timing chain concern. More often than not, improper oiling to VCT solenoids cause this or high performance springs such as in built motors will make the cams roll aft + 3 degrees which is fine. I wouldn’t rely on this parameter to determine how bad a chain is but it can tell you there is a problem with something
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He obviously knows nothing about oil.
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No he's doesn't. Truck runs like new again so hopefully he knew what he was doing.
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No he didn't say a brand but he acted like it was my fault the chain stretched because of using synthetic oil. I have always had good luck with this dealer when they work on my vehicles and the price is the best around. Yeah not going to change from synthetic and will dump the blend before long that they put in it.
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