Ok so some may know about this some may not but it is something that is coming on strong with many showings at dealerships across America. So as most know it is timing chains that are prematurely stretching causing this startup noise. The news is that there is updated parts out there to address this and Ford now has a TSB on this issue formally admitting to it being a common problem. I go over it all in this video. There is also a link to just how it sounds in the description of the video on youtube. Hopefully more dealers will be willing to dive into the engine with some guidance from Ford now.
Ford F150 3.5L Ecoboost Rattle Upon Start Up- Timing Chain Stretch Issues TSB
makuloco2000
- Status
901 - 920 of 1,375 Posts
Joined
·
7,149 Posts
We often start with new factory oem long blocks for our builds. Today we tore down 2 new long blocks. They are a great base for a new build.
Joined
·
7,149 Posts
????
Quick, general update. It's been about six weeks since got my truck back. Since it was still cold weather, I got in the habit of holding down the gas pedal when starting in the morning, and after each work day. At first, it was smooth and quiet-running, but down on power. After a week or so, the power started to return. Then, it threw a code for missfiring, cylinder three, and shuddered intermittently. Plus, it sounded like the vacuum pump was running nearly constantly, shutting off at stop lights. Ford didn't return my calls. It turns out the service representative had left the dealer. Mpg was around 13-14.5 in combined driving.
I finally drove to Ford, and a tech said it was probably just a bad plug or boot, and it's normal for the vacuum pump to cycle often.
Sunday, I changed the plugs and boots. During the process, I noticed the vacuum line was disconnected at the center intake manifold, and just sitting there open to the world.
I gapped to .028, and reconnected the hose. It's now running smoothly, no codes, the vacuum pump is not running as much, and I have a firmer brake pedal. Gas mileage immediately jumped to 17-18 mpg.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Joined
·
3,153 Posts
So I'm finally tearing into my truck and I got pretty far today. I had a stupid question hoping for quick answer. Can I leave my battery disconnected for days? a week? I don't know how long this repair is going to take me, but do I need to supply power to the PCM? I know it will reset the KAM being disconnected, but does it do any other damage if it's a long disconnect time before I hook the battery up again?
I think a lot of these problems develop from using regular fuel. I had a 2015 f-150 I just traded for a 2018. The 2015 had 43000 miles with no problems, but I never burned regular fuel, always premium or mid grade. I think this is a key to trouble free performance in the ecobost engines. Fine print says all performance is based on premium fuel.
Joined
·
7,434 Posts
Lol! Okay....
Joined
·
902 Posts
Lol!!! Is right. I have ran regular gas since she was brand new, 110k problem free miles ( besides the timing chain @ 80k). But that seems to be the norm @ or around that many miles.
Btw you are one town north of me [emoji109]. I always wondered what was wrong with that water up there. Lol. Just kidding ya!! Welcome neighbor.
2012 screw 3.5L
Joined
·
902 Posts
Joined
·
4,315 Posts
I have ran regular since new also. Zero problems. But I’m only at 38k. Maybe at this rate I have 5 more years before the rattle.
I don’t worry about the grade of gas but I do think we need to change oil often also. I don’t drive it like I stole it but it does get the occasional mini rolling coal ha ha. Blowing carbon out.
Joined
·
406 Posts
Can anyone point to a single contributor to engine failure on these things? I have no data for this, but from observation it appears that engineering, manufacturing and a lack of significant QC combine with a complex and relatively new powerplant to end with several different failure modes. Unfortunately sometimes these failures are catastrophic.
Sometimes I really wish I bought an extended warranty on this thing.
Sometimes I really wish I bought an extended warranty on this thing.
Joined
·
3,153 Posts
Before we get into the philosophical failings of Ford in regard to Ecoboost tech, anyone have any feedback regarding the battery disconnect? Am I good to leave it unhooked for days?
I'll get killed for saying this probably, but I'm not convinced that a high percentage of these trucks suffer catastrophic damage from EARLY timing chain related issues.
Key words: Early & percentage
Having said that I AM convinced that these motors absolutely require the worn timing chain to be addressed when it reveals itself. It's just not a forgiving designed motor for a worn timing chain (and related components)
Now, I guess we can banter back and forth on what "early" is.
I'll admit I wish they lasted longer.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Key words: Early & percentage
Having said that I AM convinced that these motors absolutely require the worn timing chain to be addressed when it reveals itself. It's just not a forgiving designed motor for a worn timing chain (and related components)
Now, I guess we can banter back and forth on what "early" is.
I'll admit I wish they lasted longer.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Joined
·
902 Posts
Joined
·
76 Posts
ye
s
y
ou
c
a
n
l
e
v
e
I
t
di
s
c
o
n
n
e
c
t
e
d
s
y
ou
c
a
n
l
e
v
e
I
t
di
s
c
o
n
n
e
c
t
e
d
Glad to hear you are finally getting into it. Looking forward to hearing how it goes for you. I can't think of anything wrong with a long battery disconnect. Mine was apart for ~7 days with no problem.
Quick update on mine. It's been just over two weeks since I finished mine. I still hold my breath when I start it because if I hear a rattle I will probably lose it. I know everything I put in is damn near perfect but something just makes me not trust it in general. Gas mileage hasn't been much better than before, about 16 mpg but I drive it pretty hard.
The only thing that disappoints me is it still idles rough when it is cold. I was really hoping that was timing related but I guess not. I put new plugs/boots in when I replaced the timing components so I know that's not it. I should probably just ignore it because it isn't bad, just bothers my OCD.
The only thing that disappoints me is it still idles rough when it is cold. I was really hoping that was timing related but I guess not. I put new plugs/boots in when I replaced the timing components so I know that's not it. I should probably just ignore it because it isn't bad, just bothers my OCD.
Joined
·
3,153 Posts
Eco-Mouse? Literally.
I got the cover off an it's completely ready for the teardown of the chain, phasers and guides. It's taken me two days to get this far. I tried to do it "gentleman" style, but I have to keep that damn condenser connected. I have the radiator pulled because I am dropping in a FR radiator I just bought from another member. There's so much room I can sit in the engine bay and work. Not quite "gentleman" style, but I'll go with "Quasimoto" style. Still miles better than leaning over the fender on a stool. I bought a cheap endoscope on amazon and was having some fun checking my turbos and pipes out. I have a catch can for the last 8000 miles but still see oil collecting in the pipes. I have the hole in my CAC too. When I scoped the turbos they really clean. No residue at all. I could see the shafts and everything. Cool little device and it only costs $33.
To top everything off, after I got the intake off I could see an old mouse nest in the block just like MikeDick found in his! I was totally ROFL!! I hope now that I removed it the thing still starts. I don't know what's up with the bottom of the intake being such an ideal spot for mice.
![]()
![]()
![]()
Good to hear yours is still holding. I think you may need to start looking at O2 sensors or Cats regarding the mileage. I did scope my valves and they had deposits like other have posted. Didn't seem excessive to me, but they were black nonetheless. I may try the CRC stuff down the road .. One step at a time. . . .
I'm the same way. I keep finding things wrong from previous fixes, connector locking tabs broken, front cover sealant holding a coil connector on, etc. Just lazy ****. It's hard to draw the line and stop dumping money into it. Should I change these seals, those seals, etc.
I got the cover off an it's completely ready for the teardown of the chain, phasers and guides. It's taken me two days to get this far. I tried to do it "gentleman" style, but I have to keep that damn condenser connected. I have the radiator pulled because I am dropping in a FR radiator I just bought from another member. There's so much room I can sit in the engine bay and work. Not quite "gentleman" style, but I'll go with "Quasimoto" style. Still miles better than leaning over the fender on a stool. I bought a cheap endoscope on amazon and was having some fun checking my turbos and pipes out. I have a catch can for the last 8000 miles but still see oil collecting in the pipes. I have the hole in my CAC too.
When I scoped the turbos they really clean. No residue at all. I could see the shafts and everything. Cool little device and it only costs $33. To top everything off, after I got the intake off I could see an old mouse nest in the block just like MikeDick found in his! I was totally ROFL!! I hope now that I removed it the thing still starts.
I don't know what's up with the bottom of the intake being such an ideal spot for mice.
Good to hear yours is still holding. I think you may need to start looking at O2 sensors or Cats regarding the mileage. I did scope my valves and they had deposits like other have posted. Didn't seem excessive to me, but they were black nonetheless. I may try the CRC stuff down the road .. One step at a time. . . .
2013 Screw XTR- No more. Too many issues to continue to fix the money pit
Joined
·
866 Posts
Oh the dreaded mouse nest.... Once you get that all off there, just make sure that sucker didn't chew anything up on that knock sensor wires. Been watching this thread. Great info and insight on it. Mine has only 60K miles on it, but I know the rattle is coming.I'm the same way. I keep finding things wrong from previous fixes, connector locking tabs broken, front cover sealant holding a coil connector on, etc. Just lazy ****. It's hard to draw the line and stop dumping money into it. Should I change these seals, those seals, etc.
I got the cover off an it's completely ready for the teardown of the chain, phasers and guides. It's taken me two days to get this far. I tried to do it "gentleman" style, but I have to keep that damn condenser connected. I have the radiator pulled because I am dropping in a FR radiator I just bought from another member. There's so much room I can sit in the engine bay and work. Not quite "gentleman" style, but I'll go with "Quasimoto" style. Still miles better than leaning over the fender on a stool. I bought a cheap endoscope on amazon and was having some fun checking my turbos and pipes out. I have a catch can for the last 8000 miles but still see oil collecting in the pipes. I have the hole in my CAC too.
To top everything off, after I got the intake off I could see an old mouse nest in the block just like MikeDick found in his! I was totally ROFL!! I hope now that I removed it the thing still starts.
View attachment 145433 View attachment 145441 View attachment 145449
Good to hear yours is still holding. I think you may need to start looking at O2 sensors or Cats regarding the mileage. I did scope my valves and they had deposits like other have posted. Didn't seem excessive to me, but they were black nonetheless. I may try the CRC stuff down the road .. One step at a time. . . .
901 - 920 of 1,375 Posts
- Status
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
