[DNA Dan]

I have never seen it covered under emissions warranty. Unless your seller has anything to offer you, you're stuck with it. Parts alone are about $900 USD to do it on the cheap. ~$1200 if you want to replace everything with water pump included. This assumes you do all the work yourself. If you have the money you might want to shop around. If you can find a shop around $2500 or less, that's probably a good price. I think the Ford labor time on this is 9 or 9.5 hours.

 

[RMB_Ryan]

This is why I say always replace vct solenoids!!! Mostly casting flash, and this is the incoming oil feed hole in the mega cam cap. On a perfectly healthy motor, zero failure.

 

[RMB_Ryan]

Timing ✔

 

[GearHead_1]

Ryan, do you just hit the chains with some 5w30? I’m assuming no assembly lube?

 

[DNA Dan]

Ryan, do you just hit the chains with some 5w30? I’m assuming no assembly lube?

I have the same question. I was going to pour a quart of oil over the phasers down the front of the motor to lube and flush out any dirt. I was planning to let it drain out.

 

[RMB_Ryan]

Ryan, do you just hit the chains with some 5w30? I’m assuming no assembly lube?

I use maxima assembly lube just before i install the front cover. Works great on the chain, guides, and gears and is pretty good for just the primary and secondary chains. I have been doing it for 5 years and works better than the light 30 weight that will just drop into the pan.

SAE30 on all surfaces needing some lubricant like the inside of vct bores, etc..

 

[Drewbley]

I have never seen it covered under emissions warranty. Unless your seller has anything to offer you, you're stuck with it. Parts aulone are about $900 USD to do it on the cheap. ~$1200 if you want to replace everything with water pump included. This assumes you do all the work yourself. If you have the money you might want to shop around. If you can find a shop around $2500 or less, that's probably a good price. I think the Ford labor time on this is 9 or 9.5 hours.

The video on the very first page states it is covered but after reading through this thread I’ve found some people having difficulties with this.

 

[DNA Dan]

Like I said, it's such an unfortunate failure to occur just outside of warranty due to the cost and time involved in fixing it. I think at first a lot of folks were hoping that Ford would step up to the plate, but in most cases customers were left in the cold. Best you can hope for is your selling dealer meets you halfway on the cost, or you bought a ESP with the truck that covers a portion of it. I have scoured the internet for information about this, countless threads on mutliple message boards before attempting the fix myself. I have never come across this being covered under an emissions warranty. I may be wrong, but ask around any you'll see. I even read about people who had really good relationships with dealers for 30, 40 years, and they were shown the door. It seems like the most common approach dealers used to get out of this fix is to roll the buyer into another truck, usually a V8. I don't know if folks ponied up more cash to do this, or if they got a really good deal on trade-in, but that seemed to be the conclusion in about 50% of the posts I read.

 

[DNA Dan]

I use maxima assembly lube just before i install the front cover. Works great on the chain, guides, and gears and is pretty good for just the primary and secondary chains. I have been doing it for 5 years and works better than the light 30 weight that will just drop into the pan.

SAE30 on all surfaces needing some lubricant like the inside of vct bores, etc..

Do you keep the assembly lube in the oil while you break-in components? Or do you just let it run out the pan?

Also how long do you run the motor on that first oil? Change immediately or after a few hundred miles?

 

[RMB_Ryan]

Do you keep the assembly lube in the oil while you break-in components? Or do you just let it run out the pan?

Also how long do you run the motor on that first oil? Change immediately or after a few hundred miles?

On new assembles we do 25/250/750mike break in oil then switch to conventional race oil till 2500-5000 miles, then full synthetic.

I would pull oil after 50-100 miles on a timing chain service just to flush out dirt or anything that may run thru. Shouldn’t but play it safe. Break in or assembly lube will mix fine in almost all oils

 

[DNA Dan]

Finally got my truck back together. All I can say is, it's a new truck. Behaves totally differently. When I get on it a little it seems like the engine advances better and I get more power without an actual downshift. Hard to explain really. Don't know for sure if it was the timing chain or the valve cleaning or a combination of both. No drips, no codes !! Knock on wood... On the valves I got about a quart of liquid carbon that I need to dispose of. I took my time and cleaned everything as I reassembled. I had a new coolant bottle which I negotiated as part of the purchase so I put that on. I also changed the coolant tube that connects the crossover to the thermostat housing. It was rusting from the inside and shedding particles into the coolant. So with the complete timing chain fix, water pump, harmonic balancer, coolant tube, belts, solvents, tools and a Full Race radiator from a fellow member on the forums, I'm at about $2K USD. Wasn't planning on dropping that into the truck (I just did the brakes and Bilsteins all around last month!!) but I am totally stoked for towing season now. The truck feels super stable and I can't wait to see what a difference this makes towing. I am so much more familiar with this motor I think I could do a complete swap or rebuild. Thanks everyone for the tidbits of information that got me through this.

Some sad looking valve covers....

I used Gunk Engine Degreaser in a spray bottle that has citrus in it. This product is the bomb for cleaning parts. Just a few sprays and paintbrush to agitate, rinse, done.

The final glory shot!

Look Ma, I got a FULL RACE radiator cap!!!

 

[Mikedick77]

That's frickin awesome dude! It runs better, and you get to see the difference, probably makes it even more worthwhile than just piece of mind! You have much more in depth knowledge of the motor than I had just acquired myself, but I know what you mean. I'm glad this worked out well for you. It was a journey no doubt!

 

[noodles]

Good work. Now enjoy using the truck.

 

[DNA Dan]

Thanks! Drove it to work today and I can already tell the MPG is going to come in at least 2-3 MPG better. I need to take it to a a guy with a tuner tomorrow to get the Neutral Misfire calibration procedure done. I have been monitoring some PIDs and the only thing that stands out is a -7 LTFT on bank 1, which is a reading of a rich condition. It was doing this before the repairs I made. I suspect it's time to get the o2 sensor changed on that side. I listened carefully for an exhaust leak, but I can't hear anything. May have to take some soapy water to inspect. Aside from an air leak post-maf sensor giving the false reading at the o2 sensor, what else would cause this? A leaky injector? Only does it at idle and when I get moving they adjust to close to zero. Even though that is going on, it runs beautifully so I'm not overly concerned at this point. Oh and that last shot was before I put the coolant in the motor! I don't run it empty! You guys fail the attention to detail class. lol.

 

[LonestarF150]

Hey y'all -- first off thanks for compiling this great thread of information.
I've had the rattle for about 6 months now (Original owner, 2014 F150 Ecoboost 62k miles. Dealership was bought out recently).

I understand at one point this was thought to be covered under an immisions warranty however that's never been confirmed...
so what am I looking at here? The truck drives great other than the rattle. From what I can tell this will cost me ~$2500 to fix? What if I ignore it? I have no wrenching ability.

Thanks in advance.

 

[devin]

From what I understand, you can ignore it up until you get about 6° out of timing and then things really start to go awry. The engine is interference, so if it gets too far out of timing the pistons will eventually compress, among other things, the valves.

 

[DNA Dan]

Not only that, but you will probably suffer from increasingly poor MPG and power loss as the PCM tries to adjust for the timing being out of whack.

If you don't end up hitting the valves, your chain will slap around inside the block, hitting the front cover and eventually ruining it. This can also lead to:

- Timing chain breaking (seems rare)
- Timing chain slippling teeth (Catastropic failure of motor)
- Broken chain guides
- Clogged oil passages/VCT solenoids being blocked by metal/plastic debris
- Premature bearing wear from lack of oil
- A post in the "blown engine thread"

 

[winchested]

Not only that, but you will probably suffer from increasingly poor MPG and power loss as the PCM tries to adjust for the timing being out of whack.

If you don't end up hitting the valves, your chain will slap around inside the block, hitting the front cover and eventually ruining it. This can also lead to:


- Clogged oil passages/VCT solenoids being blocked by metal/plastic debris
- A post in the "blown engine thread"

This is the original cause. This is what causes the wear on the timing chain to begin with.

 

[DNA Dan]

Yeah, basically it's a cascade of a whole lot of BAD for the motor. That's why I think the consensus is if you have the means, fix it as soon as you can before you start down this path of damaging other parts of the motor. It's really a rescue mission for an otherwise good motor.

 

[Tlars]

New guy question here -

I have a 2013 Platinum 2wd still under Ford Powertrain warranty. If I should develop this (no sound of it yet) is this covered since it is a lubricated power train part?