[RSKtakR]

Picked up my JL sub, box and amp today. Amp is a RD500/1 that only has RCA inputs. As I mentioned I went ahead and bought the MP1212 plug that plugs directly into the factory sub out behind the plastic panel as well as the FET circuit mentioned a couple posts up. There is a single + and a single - that will be coming out of the MP1212 pigtail (for the factory signals) as well as the 6v remote wire of course. If there is only a single + and a single - wire(s) coming from the truck, how will I get two male RCA's to plug into the amp from these TWO wires? I know I will just buy two male RCA pigtails but its only two wires not 4? Am I missing something here?

Will I just put the two + on the RCA's together then put them on the single + from the MP1212 harness and the same with the - side of the RCA's so I end up with two RCA's to plug into the amp L & R RCA inputs? What will that do since the wires going to the single sub from the amp are bridged on the amp outputs?

 

[TCP2]

Will I just put the two + on the RCA's together then put them on the single + from the MP1212 harness and the same with the - side of the RCA's so I end up with two RCA's to plug into the amp L & R RCA inputs? What will that do since the wires going to the single sub from the amp are bridged on the amp outputs?

do this.

 

[TCP2]

Well I was able to locate the factory subwoofer lead behind the panel. I also have the current version of Forescan on my laptop. Just waiting for the two harness's to show up.
TCP2, you had said to look for ACM in that list and I didn't see that anywhere? You said that up on your explanation pic and I dont see ACM on your pic either? Also, how do I know which way I need to flip the switch on my ELM?

When you first connect to the truck, it will download all the modules it can see, then ask you if you have the switch on the ELM (and tell you to flip the switch) then download the rest. It's a lot of modules. My picture has forscan running in demo mode and not actually connected to the truck so it only shows the demo modules.

 

[gotboost150]

If you pop the rear door opening rubber seal off and pull the plastic open a bit, you will see the connector if it's there. I had the connector and no factory sub, but did have the 7 speaker system. To activate it:
1. Access the ACM with forscan
2. one of the options in forscan is to make changes in plain english(rather than dealing with the ones/zeros as shown in the forscan spreadsheet, there is an option to see the recognized choices in "English" which allows you make the same changes, but with a small menu. Both options are selectable with a tab at the top of the parameter editor, but the english tab has much fewer options and only access a few parameters). In that tab, just choose the correct configuration you want to have function.
3. Go into the ones/zeros tab ( if forget what it's called, but allows you access in the manner shown in the spreadsheet) and make the change to add the subwoofer. NOT the Kicker option if you don't have the kicker system.
4. Your connector should now put out a signal processed (low pass?) output at the connector and your speakers have the sub frequencies removed. The sound is significantly better than stock.

There is a lot more signal processing available/going on in this system than you'd expect.

Where exactly did u find the connector and which side driver/passenger?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[gotboost150]

Where exactly did u find the connector and which side driver/passenger?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Never mind, found it!

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[RSKtakR]

I now have everything needed for the install except my MP1212 harness that will be here today. I am going to go ahead and build the "Harness" that changes the MP1212 + & - leads into RCA's as well as make the remote wire a little longer and get the FET circuit connected into all of this correctly this evening and get the power and negative cables as well as my remote base knob run to behind the back seat. I'm hoping to get everything installed this evening and then get into Forescan tomorrow to turn the sub lead on.

 

[RSKtakR]

So I hooked most everything up tonight except for the connection to the battery and mounting the remote bass knob thanks to my drill shooting craps so I cant drill the 3 holes I need to drill to mount the knob and the fuse block by the battery.. Anyways, TCP2.. on the FET circuit I think I might have hooked it up incorrectly. The instructions said to hook the green wire upto the + speaker wire for the low voltage trigger.. but after realizing that im retarded I figured out that wire is supposed to hook up to the bottom left of the MP1212 harness (if looking at the back of that plug on the MP1212 side. Right? I also just hooked up the ground wire and 12v (yellow wire) to the + and the - that are the two black wires coming out of the MP1212 harness too. Will this work? After I get the holes drilled and get the wires I mentioned swapped around, I will go ahead and get into Forscan.

 

[RSKtakR]

So I dont see ACM anywhere. I opened all of these to see if it was a "sub file" somehow but I still never saw anything that said ACM. ?

 

[TCP2]

I think so. It's been a while but I think the trigger wire color is brown in the original harness coming off the truck. There is also a black wire, but it is just the shield wire for the + and - signal.

If you are not getting the ACM, does your ELM OBDII adapter have the switch on the side? It allows for the extended (MS CAN) CANBUS access to the modules. Forscan should ask you after loading the basic modules if you have the switch, then tell you to flip it. After that it downloads the rest of the modules.
Latest Forscan data is here:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet.../spreadsheets/d/1uDSQ1Z5a2Wt8-kjrSiVSlDFGFHnfeuhb3RTMVz95730/edit#gid=815852466

and tutorial here:

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1-8dKaS_Spu4Zw4hV_CrKC4tLoP9G8yejqegF1wxIqxY/edit

The ELM327 switch information and how forscan ask you about it is shown here:

https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4

I use a USB (wired, not wireless) ELM327 module, so it might look different on the bluetooth version.

So I hooked most everything up tonight except for the connection to the battery and mounting the remote bass knob thanks to my drill shooting craps so I cant drill the 3 holes I need to drill to mount the knob and the fuse block by the battery.. Anyways, TCP2.. on the FET circuit I think I might have hooked it up incorrectly. The instructions said to hook the green wire upto the + speaker wire for the low voltage trigger.. but after realizing that im retarded I figured out that wire is supposed to hook up to the bottom left of the MP1212 harness (if looking at the back of that plug on the MP1212 side. Right? I also just hooked up the ground wire and 12v (yellow wire) to the + and the - that are the two black wires coming out of the MP1212 harness too. Will this work? After I get the holes drilled and get the wires I mentioned swapped around, I will go ahead and get into Forscan.

 

[TCP2]

wiring

After some further digging, the brown wire shown is the trigger wire in the OEM harness and should be wired to the green wire in the TR-4.
Tr-4 yellow wire to the factory plug's +12V. Tr-4 blue wire to the trigger wire (should be blue as well) on the amp/sub. Tr-4 ground to the ground wire on the factory plug.

Factory plug violet is sub signal + (to center of RCAs). Factory plug green is sub signal - (to outside of RCAs). Factory plug black is the shield for the sub signal wires and can be left unconnected or if you have fancy, shielded RCAs, to the separate shield (but don't attach it to sub signal -).

I have forgotten which is +12V and Ground in the OEM harness, but I think you have that figured already.

4

 

[TCP2]

My as-built for 727-01-01 is 5801 0808 0099 and 727-01-02 is 0600 37** ****. "*" = blank.

Going through Forscan here is what is recommended in the sheet:

When I made 727-01-01 : 5808 0808 0099. This made my system sound like crap. Going with 5809 for the first digits is what made it sound good.

 

[RSKtakR]

I just got a chance to read your posts.. I didn't look at the sub harness/conn. in the truck to see what wires were, I kind of just figured that they would be the same as a 15 or an 18 etc (my truck is a 17). I took the MP1212 and the TR4 and spliced them together as follows looking at the MP1212 from the BACK (wires exiting the MP1212 end):

-WP1212 Top left black is battery + (I spliced the yellow from the TR4 into this wire)
-WP1212 Top two green wires weren't used
-WP1212 Top right black wire is - ( I spliced the black from the TR4 into this wire)
-WP1212 Lower left green is the remote wire with .6v (I spliced the green from the TR4 into this wire)
-WP1212 MIDDLE Lower left green wire is signal + to RCA's +
-WP1212 MIDDLE Lower right green wire is signal - to RCA's -
-WP1212 Lower right green is ? and not used.

The blue wire from the TR4 is my 12v remote wire going to my amp.

The video I was watching was kind of confusing for the lower left green wire. I think the guy edited the video and stated that its a - as well? As of right now I don't have it connected to anything.

I have a friend that is local that will be going through my Forscan this weekend and making changes... he just needs to know what the codes need to be changed to he said. I had read that in 727-0101 for the sub woofer the # needed to be changed to 5808 until I read your post about changing it to 5809 instead.

I am also wanting to just have my autostart disabled, my hyperflash on the tails turned off and the sub enabled and thats all I think.

At 3:40 in this video the explanation of the WP1212 connections start. This is what I used:

 

[RSKtakR]

Ok I took a chance a got Forscan to work correctly and got everything switched on/changed. I used the 9 instead of 8 for the sub and it sounds GREAT!! Thanks for all the help everyone!

 

[RSKtakR]

Since I loved the sound of everything so far, I decided to buy aftermarket 6.5" two way rear door speakers, 6x9 two way front door speakers, 1" pillar tweeters and a 3 1/2" center channel speaker to make the mids and highs a little more "crispy" lol. I shouldn't have to do anything else in Forscan I wouldn't think? Does anyone have any idea if there is a factory amp that powers the two front door and two back door speakers and where it might be located?

 

[TCP2]

pretty sure it's just the built in amplifier from the unit in the dash. No external amplifier in this system. Just swap the speakers. If you don't want to modify any wiring/connectors in the doors, get these:

https://www.amazon.com/Metra-72-5600-Speaker-Harness-1998-UP/dp/B001OAB6BW

Since I loved the sound of everything so far, I decided to buy aftermarket 6.5" two way rear door speakers, 6x9 two way front door speakers, 1" pillar tweeters and a 3 1/2" center channel speaker to make the mids and highs a little more "crispy" lol. I shouldn't have to do anything else in Forscan I wouldn't think? Does anyone have any idea if there is a factory amp that powers the two front door and two back door speakers and where it might be located?

 

[RSKtakR]

You're correct, I have all my new speakers and new pigtail connectors so there wont be any cutting wires. I have since found a harness that I can install between my factory 8" screen head unit and existing speaker wire harness/plugs that allow me to use the factory speaker wires to wire in an amp right after the radio. I have also found a couple small 50x4 and 75x4 amps that I would use for all the door speakers I can install up in the dash behind/above the factory head unit. I will likely go this route eventually depending on how the new speakers all sound.