Whats with the 4wd spindle swap if you dont mind me asking?

 

It provides an additional 1"-1.5" lift over a 2wd Spindle. The 4wd shocks are longer as well

As you can see even a 2wd With a 2.5" Leveling Kit and 3" block is still way high in the rear. The 4wd Shock and spindle with a 2.5" lift will look much better

 

Good looking truck with some good mods. Raptor shocks in back, what is in front?
I do use Icon 2.5 CDCV all around, my F150 is much lighter but I like the Icon's a lot.
If I sugest anything itvwould be to go with large diameter front coil-overs that are adjustable for ride height and dispose of the level kit, iuf buying Deavers again reaserch for lift options (Deaver offers a bunch) or look into the Icon RXT and loose the rear blocks. 10-14 RAPTOR MULTI RATE RXT LEAF PACK W/ ADD IN LEAF 10-14 RAPTOR MULTI RATE RXT LEAF PACK W/ ADD IN LEAF - Icon Vehicle Dynamics KM

 

Good looking truck with some good mods. Raptor shocks in back, what is in front?
I do use Icon 2.5 CDCV all around, my F150 is much lighter but I like the Icon's a lot.
If I sugest anything itvwould be to go with large diameter front coil-overs that are adjustable for ride height and dispose of the level kit, iuf buying Deavers again reaserch for lift options (Deaver offers a bunch) or look into the Icon RXT and loose the rear blocks. 10-14 RAPTOR MULTI RATE RXT LEAF PACK W/ ADD IN LEAF 10-14 RAPTOR MULTI RATE RXT LEAF PACK W/ ADD IN LEAF - Icon Vehicle Dynamics KM

I'm probably going to go with the Icon RR CDCV 2.5" in the front, even with the Raptor Rear takeoffs I think it would match well

I was considering the Fox 2.5" DSC but I've heard mixed reviews about the ride and also the Corrosion Resistance. I've had Digressive shocks in the past and I really like them. The Raptor Bypass rears were just too great of a deal too pass up

I'll research some more about the Icon RXT vs Deaver

 

So you have a 2wd. Mine is also. I have a full set of Icon Stage 1 2.5's IFP coil-overs and 2.0 rear shocks taken off at 40000 miles and replaced with CDCV 2.5 versions front and back. I run minimal front lift that comes to1.75 inches. No lift in back no blocks. 275-70-17 Nokian Rotiva's on 8.5-17 0 offset wheels.

Like digessive valving also, the handling characteristics are superb. KM

 

Nice looking truck OP

 

Appreciate it, I just got some 4wd spindles and am gonna grab some oem 4wd shocks too level the front a bit more then I’ll take some more pics

 

I have mine perfectly level with a 1.5 level up front and rear block removal for the rear...... been contemplating removing the front leveler and dropping the rear 1.5.... Lol

 

OP, thoughts about removing the sport sticker on the rear bed panels and blacking out the F150 Emblems?

 

Definitely blacking out the side emblems and probably the front and rear. Not sure on the sport yet, tbh it's grown on me

 

Nice looking truck. I still wish I would have got a 2.7.

 

Appreciate it, it’s funny because when I was researching them I was all in on the 3.5 but I test drove a 2.7 and thought it was kind of average. Then I remembered the salesman told me to try out sport mode…..it was all over after that, I couldn’t believe this little engine could make a full size truck haul like that.

I can’t wait to regear to 4.10s with my current setup, the stock 3.31 gears and 265/70r18 tires (31 lbs each) absolutely hauled in this truck. Such effortless acceleration but such a bad stance haha

Also the fact that’s it’s the only gas CGI block is sick, I bet with forged pistons and rods this thing could be darn near 700 whp. @boostkingMatt thoughts?

 

My gut tells me that with 4.10s, you'll be launching in 2nd or 3rd gear. 10-speed transmissions make so many things right with a tall rear end. I'm sure you have your reasons but I'd probably point you towards 3.73's, if you're feeling the need to go with a short stack.

 

I have the 6 speed

 

4.10s will make that truck rip lol, but 3.73 is a great gear for the 2.7 also. Made a huge difference for me when i re-geared for 3.73

 

Some info that may help with gear choice,

My 2.7, 6 speed, 3.73 gear, 32 inch tall tires. Not marked but 87 MPH at the shift into 4thwhen I shut down. KM

 

I have 34.5's right now so how would that equate?

 

With taller tires the speed goes up, just as if lowering the gear ratio to 3.31. KM

 

I gotcha, I just don't want to go the 3.73 route and regret not going 4.10's

Unless I can find an Axle on Facebook Marketplace but even that could be risky regarding the condition of the internals

 

I run 34.5" tires with the 6 speed and 3.55 gears myself, and I can't actually imagine shorter gearing.

2wd Traction can be a handful as it is (though its much improved with the 295mm contact patch vs 275mm I had previously), and I can still easily do under 2 second 60 ft times at the strip in 4wd.

And while that's with the 3.5, it's only pushing around 400hp at the crank, on a very good day.

If it's not a drag truck, I bet 3.73s would work well, and sounds like less of a headache to source & build too.

 

"2wd Traction can be a handful as it is (though its much improved with the 295mm contact patch vs 275mm I had previously), and I can still easily do under 2 second 60 ft times at the strip in 4wd." That's for sure. I'll probably keep the 275's even if they can be toasted. I simply want to keep the weight down yet have enough performance and traction. What I have lacking in traction from a dead start is truly made up in cornering and ride.

"If it's not a drag truck, I bet 3.73s would work well, and sounds like less of a headache to source & build too." That's why I posted my graph. The 3.73 indeed works very well. From the ocaisonal 0-80 blast on an entry ramp to driving on mild boreal forest service roads. I never noticed a big loss in MPG with the 3.73, but it sure adds to the snappy responsiveness. KM

 

I think I'm gonna try and grab a 3.73 take off, appreciate the input guys

 

Stock vs 3.73 gearing

Stock vs 4.10 gearing

 

Ya that'd be a massive difference going to the 4.10. Is it more common in the 5.0s to go with 4.10 vs 3.73 with 35s due too lower low end torque?

That would make sense because these ecoboosts have so much low end torque

In my research through the years I feel like people always said 4.10s with V8s

 

Back then was different than now, cause back then transmissions had only 4 gears which had different driving characteristics than the new 6 and 10 speed transmissions

 

So I got a quote back from a shop $1700 for the rear end gear swap. Seems a bit high but not insane

I currently have the Super 8.8 3.31 with E-Locker (L3 Axle Code), am I pretty much limited to the Super 8.8 3.73 with E-Locker (L6) if I want a straight swap?

From what I researched a 9.75 swap would require a new driveshaft and potentially losing the parking brake...do all the 15+ trucks have the electric parking brake 8.8 or 9.75?

 

You can re-gear your truck for about 500 bucks yourself there isnt much to do to get the gears in, i know you in fl where in fl are you?

 

I bet with Forscan mods you could retain your parking brake.

 

The 9.75 doesnt have the electric parking brake i think

 

Mine doesnt

 

Setting patterns is about the only thing that’s really meticulous and difficult about differentials. If you can follow a service manual and have the tooling I think you can do it.

 

I thought so but the diff is already shimmed for proper back lash and depth he just has to make sure not to get the shims mixed up from the carrier assembly

 

Unless he’s swapping in a complete differential there will be some setup. You’d be crazy to just assume that everything is going to be the same.

 

If your old pinion bearing is still good, and you get it off the pinion without damaging it you can hone it out to a slip fit over the new pinion. Then you can set up the drive and coast patterns, along with backlash without the crush sleeve. You need to measure the stock carrier bearing shims and the total will have to be matched with any new shims because that stack up sets your bearing preload on those. Setting up a rear end properly isn't super difficult, it can just be time consuming if it's done right.

 

With my experience in re-gearing the 8.8 i kept the shimming the same as it was with the 3.31 gearing. I put a new pinion bearing checked backlash and depth with the proper pinion preload and everything checked out, i didnt have to re-shim anything at all. You should always double check your work of course and i also bought a shim kit just in case i had to add or swap shims but from the research i did before i re-gear my diff i found out that you didnt have to re-shim the carrier or pinion cause it was it was already set from when the axle was assembled from the factory

 

Getting back around to this now...got a Quote from a Jeep Guy for $1,200 and the funny thing was he quoted me $700 for Material and $500 in Labor. The Labor seems fair and the material expensive, are the install kits and gears that expensive now?

 

Decided to finally put the blacked out F150 badge on the truck and removed the Ecoboost emblem + Sport decal. Really like the look of it now without those

 

Ive always wanted one of those baja angled tire carriers so i found one on Facebook Marketplace. I finally got it painted with Herculiner and figured out my fastening methods today and it turned out great. Gotta grab a spare 315/70r17 off Facebook to really complete it haha

 

FR3Z-4209-B here is the part number i ordered its a 3.73 gear set i paid 270 for it shipped. RICHMOND 831047B this is the shim kit i bought just in case i needed parts i paid 75 bucks for it. This is all you need to regear your truck