I just did a quick look and the only bad things I could find on them was the spring issue, and it looks like you're past that.

 

Thanks for double checking !

 

Managed to get find a few minutes to get the oil pickup off and get the underside cleaned up today. Not a lot of progress. But some.

 

Following ...

 

Okay the goal for tomorrow is minimally get the sealing surfaces on the block clean and to bolt up the new pump and pick up tube. I would absolutely love to get the pan bolted up too and the diff bolted back up too but that might be a touch optimistic because I’ll prob be starting around 6:30pm

stay tuned.

 

Okay guys, less progress then I wanted but I knew that would be how it went. I got the drivers side phasers on, and torqued down, 18ftlbs and 180 degrees.

Again …. New secondary tensioners, new stretch bolts. I’m grasping at straws trying to make sure I don’t have low oil pressure again ( which is why I replaced the tensioners idk if oil could be leaking past the orings… I know it’s dumb but want to make this the last time I open this front cover.

additionally I have the new oil pump on. Changed out the high pressure spring with the stock pressure one.

seemed to go smoothly.

tomorrow I’ll get the rest of the timing set on but I’m going to leave the front over off till I have the pick up tube and oil pan mounted up.

leaving the oil pan off so any crap that gets dropped falls straight through to the floor.

stay tuned !

 

Okay today I got the rest of the timing set on took tons of videos rolled it over back to top dead center and counted links…. It’s in time I’m going to leave it open and check it 8 more times throughout the day.
It’s in time tho. I’m just satisfying my ocd at this point.

Truck starts getting closed up tomorrow. Not sure I’ll finish it’s a bit of a busy day. Worst case is gets wrapped up next sat.

non related….. how would you guys start going after the sludgy engine safely…. I carefully cleaned out what I knew would fallout or could be blown or vacuumed out. But I’m also trying to be conscience things broken loose can clogged passages if they don’t Get removed before getting closed up


my plan is for at least a little while to do oil changes RIGHT at 3000 miles which is way earlier then I would normally do it but I want to be moving the sludge in the right direction not the wrong direction.

I’m also considering maybe doing a conservative seafoam treatment before oil changes maybe like half a dose ?

iknow ford says not to do additives but, that’s all well and fine for motors without a problem but I mean I gotta get this moving in the right direction rather then wrong.

alternatively I could just use an oil with more detergents in it perhaps. Is there something you guys recommend for a situation like I’m in ?

 

Valvoline restore and protect.

 

Valvoline Restore and Protect, 1,500 mile first change and maybe spin a new filter on at 500 miles? Run that for your next three oil changed and maybe scope the valve covers after.

 

I'd take the most conservative approach possible, which would be switching to that oil folks have been raving about and shorten the interval for a few changes.

(is it a Valvoline restore product, I think?)

Problem is how do you measure success without picking something easy to get a look at and then capture images along the way?

Kind of a pain to pull a valve cover every few thousand miles

 

Obviously I was typing while my good buddy from the frozen Tundra was responding. 😁

 

Too slow today brother!

 

Busy weekend, didn’t get a lot of time to work on the truck. but managed to get the pickup tube and pan installed today. I’m 100% convinced my new timing set is installed correctly too, so, a few things check off the list

Through out the week I’ll work on wrapping up everything under the truck, if I can get the starter wiring and bolt back in and get the diff mounted again before Friday I’ll be happy,

and I should be able to do the rest over the weekend.

 

Valvoline restore and protect for the sludge removal. There's one other product, but they work identically and it would be an added cost. Autorx.

Did you replace the oil pump the last time you had everything apart? I would only replace your old pump with a new stock Ford pump. It's been recommended against using the melling by some very trusted people on here.

 

First time I was in here I did not replace the pump or pickup.
This time I am.

I put a Melling in. I have seen mixed reviews. But anything negative I saw was not met with any data or even really a descriptive reason why it was not being recommended. It’s closed up not and I’m going with it. But perhaps it was not the right thing to do.

I hope it solves the problem, I put on very very few miles. The engine is high Miles. I don’t believe it will ultimately what fails first i think before I need a new pump I’ll need a new engine for a different reason. I hope I’m right.

Thank you for the oil recommendation !

 

last night I ordered some restore and protect
Per everyone’s recommendation.

tonight I got the underside of the truck buttoned up. Diff mounted back up made sure the diff level was good while I was there. It was all wet but much have been from something else because the level was good in it.


got the cross member back on and skid plate. Feels good to have finished something lol.

tomorrow I’m going to do the front cover, valve covers and fuel pump. And then through out the week I’ll just pick something here or there as I find time. Anything that’s not done by Saturday I’ll finish up Saturday.

pray I managed to catch the issue this time !

 

Last night I got a semi permanent manual oil pressure gauge installed (3d printed a mount to stick it on the hood, now it looks like it makes 1000 hp and hellcats will tremble in fear)

And then I put the front cover back on.

I suspect if I pick off a few things every night I can finish Saturday.

I do have off Monday so that would be absolute wort case I suppose

 

You have me on the edge of my chair rooting for ~75psi

And you've earned good oil pressure in my book.

 

Okay boys, got it back together tonight. Good news and bad news….

Good news number 1: we got oil pressure !
80 psi on start up Drops to 25 on idle (wish it was a little higher) 50ish at 1200 rpm’s, no warning lights.

feels great to know I’m not going to cook the thing while running it.


Bad news number 1: I still get both those codes. Frustrating p0015 p0017

good news number 2: it actually runs better then the last time which makes me think it is oil pressure related ? I think that phaser and solenoid might be starving for enough pressure to run the phaser… but it’s got more now so it’s maybe less out then before ? Won’t know till I get forscan or autel on it (might just be my imagination….. additionally good news this tells me I likely won’t have to go back in under the timing cover which feels great.
Idk I might just check the timing if it’s closer I I think I’ll just drive it like a grandma for short trips and see if it improves as I do oil changes with the restore and renew maybe ? Idk it’s late I’ll think about that later

Final bad news. Idk if it was doing this before or not but … likely completely unrelated.
I get warnings for like all the safety features

hill decent control fault
Check park aid
Service advanced track

Not sure what’s up with that. I was reading wheel sensors ? Maybe a bumped something while I was messing with the diff or maybe Doing the hose clamp on the turbos through the fenders ?

 

Charge your battery to 100%
Clear codes
See if the dash alerts return.

Sure hope the oil eventually makes a difference. If it does, that stuff is going to be even more famous than it already is.

 

I’d plan to clean vct actuators but I would run restore and protect for a while. Oil pressure could be just from regular wear throughout the engines life.

 

Waazaaap, we’re talking about just bringing in this thing. We want our garage back and my wife is sick of me ruining all my clothes.

I usually am not a quitter but it’s a nice truck and it would be nice if it worked for us.

I’m going to call tomorrow and see if they are there Monday(Labor Day)

I won’t let this thread die without details about what the truck needed, that’s always the worst when you find someone experiencing the same thing you were and they just disappear.

 

okay my appointment is for the 16th so i have a little time with this thing still.

i unplugged the drivers side exhaust vvt solenoid while the truck was running (really have no idea how dangerous this might be but i did it anyways. ) I kind of expected that cam to maybe retard itself like where the passenger side is. ... it did not. ...i also, with the truck on but not running checked the terminals, 13v on one wire, 3.5 on the other,, obviously wasn't able to confirm that it is grounding out by the ecu properly but the fact removing the drivers side made no difference at idle. it makes me think it doesn't even matter.

decided to do a compression test thinking that would yield some obviously bad results on bank 1 if the valve timing was bad

133-142 all cylinders with the majority being between 135 and 140 in fact the passenger side was slightly stronger then the drivers side.

I'm starting to think about maybe cam position circuit ? maybe ? the sensor it self is new but i suppose the wiring could be bad, i know the values in autel do fluctuate so it seems its detecting variation and when i unplug any of them all 4 values go to zero.

.... i had an idea…. Kinda stupid one but. Is it possible for the tone ring to slip on the cam ? I pulled the cam position sensor out and tried to push it around with a screw driver…. Wasn’t able to get it to slip with that but the hole I was working through is small and I’m trying to be gentle… obviously don’t want to end up with a worse situation.

 

Are you using Motorcraft sensors?

 

Yessir. Only parts so far that aren’t motor craft are the oil pump and pick up.

and then upper rad hose, serp belt and tensioner.

 

…… you guys …….
Pretty much the impossible just happened
I decided to pull the passenger side valve cover to check the tone wheel.

but …. Check this out

This fricket thing was at ….. exactly ……. Exactly top dead center

AND the main chain lined up…..

(The secondary chain must be on its opposite tooth so this would have to happen one more time for everything to line up ) but look at the painted tooth and the scratch I put in the block when I timed it

I am hesitant to post this because you guys are going to think I like faked it some how lol.

 

Okay gents. Canceled my appointment with ford, I think we got’er figured out, the works not done yet but I have a new exhaust passenger cam from ford.
Check this out.

my tone ring slipped causing the truck to think the timing is out when it’s not

I’ll be changing the timing chain idler this time( it bugged me I didn’t do it last time, the vac pump and the cam. I’ll report back when I’m done with the work prob in a week or 2 but I would be surprised if this didn’t solve the timing issue.

 

That'll be a first for me.

 

Seen it on Iveco diesels. How is that tone ring attached?

 

Amazing.
And Fantastic news!
And huge respect for the tenacity to continue to dig even after you hit rock multiple times.

 

Should have said I've never read about it on an EcoBoost cam.