That looks awesome, where did you source the connctors with the quick connects if you don't mind sharing.
I'm working on sourcing a plug and play kit just like that for you guys.

 

In order to get the quick connectors for my install I ordered two passenger side replacement lines from Tasca and striped the connectors from them. Extra hassle, but well worth it IMHO.

 

Nice !

 

Nice set up. Slick install.

I'm curious as to why you decided to draw off both sides of the valve cover. It was my understanding that the drivers side was the inlet and the passenger side was the outlet.

I am with you and I did not drill a hole in the passenger side turbo inlet pipe. I am running a RX can. Had not heard of the mishimoto cans. I found the website and a good description of this baffled can. Looks like it will do very well for you. Website below for others to explore.

Mishimoto Baffled Oil Catch Can, by Mishimoto

 

Great write up thanks

 

Thanks guys. All the connectors and hoses I bought from summit racing. I spent a little more on this configuration than the RX, but that was the look I wanted. There's absolutely nothing wrong with the RX setup and that was what I was originally going to go with but I wanted something a little different. Every thing is AN-10 hoses and fittings accept for where the check valves are. It reduces to AN-6 as 3/8 was the biggest check valves I could find. As far as drawing off both valve covers I think it will do just fine. Drag racers have been doing it for years. My thought is that this config. should pull just as much gunk but I didn't like the idea of leaving the drivers side plugged off with no way to pull the moisture from the top of the valve cover. This is the same setup as the RX system without the clean side separator so it should be fine. I would like to thank TunerBoost for answering my questions and explaining how a properly functioning system should flow.

 

This will work the way to did it. Good job.

The testing with this exact can found it only trapped app 50% of the oil and gunk, but thats still better than most cans.

So all know, the RX can for the EB is all -8 AN fittings and lines to match the OEM barb sizes, etc.

What are you using for the cleanside?

 

You never want the drivers side plugged and not bringing in fresh filtered air.

 

I was going to mention this, because the way it looks like this is plumbed, the sewer vent is essentially tied to the drain eliminating fresh air make-up!
The Mishimoto was my first CC, but I switched when RX came on the scene because I saw no need to re-invent the wheel?
And this whole drilling a hole BS because of warranty is just keyboard mechanics with their panties in a wad!
It is a plastic pipe, NOT A SACRED COW! Ford has manufactured millions of them!

 

Sorry guys, I was waiting for the last of my fittings to come in today. I tapped the fresh air side into the air box and into the top of the cap as shown below. I forgot to mention that last night. But yes, y'all were right that it needed to be there. I've got a new ford oil fill cap coming and an AN-10 female cap coming for the air box should I need to take it off.

 

They go right through. I have found some when I was flushing my IC AFTER my RX install.
Nice install!

 

That's reassuring. So a small piece of the passenger side turbo inlet pipe will not damage the turbo? That pipe looks like a real pain to remove.

-Will my opinion void my warranty?

 

Looks nice!!!! You can test the Mishimoto yourself by adding a RX can inline behind the Mishi to see the effectiveness.

 

Believe it or not, this can is really easy to clean and drain. i just unscrew the bottom portion of the can as i have it just mounted to the top portion, and i can dump it out. the baffled part of the can stays with the bottom section and all i have to do is unscrew the bronze filter on the top section to clean it. So far just driving about 20 miles it has already removed a teaspoon of fluid. So its doing its job. Is it as effective as the RX can, who knows? Im pleased with how it turned out. the only thing im thinking about adding is and inline fuel filter the the clean side intake from the air box to keep oil mist completely out of the air box.

 

Ya, when you have it mounted on the front like you have. I could not mount mine there because of my FullRace IC, I had mine mounted on my air box and it is a PITA to get to with an 8mm allen wrench. RX is by far the easiest to drain with the quarter turn valve. Just something for others to take into consideration as they make their modification choices!

 

I figured I would update on the catchcan. I ended up putting a little ss steel wool as an extra layer in the can to help with efficiency and every thing has been great. As far as I can tell, it is filtering everything that goes through it because all the return lines back to the motor are clean with no residue. One thing I did do was buy two UPR 5/8 check valves to replace my 3/8 ones. Other than that it seems to be working fine. I wish the can was bigger this time of the year though. I'm having to empty it weekly. But anyway, I thought id give you guys an update.

 

May I ask what made up your mind to install the catch can? I have been wrenching on my own vehicles since I was 16 and have to admit that I am completely confused by the catch can situation with the Ecoboost. I have never seen so much conflicting information on one topic before. My truck now has 2,300mi on it so last night I decided to remove the intake tubing at the throttle body. It was dry as a bone, not even a hint of oil or water, I also removed the tube coming from the BOV to the intake pipe and it was bone dry as well. It has been below 45 degrees pretty much since the day I bought the truck 7 weeks ago; according to what I have read I should already be seeing a lot of fluid in the throttle body yet I have none. I plan to keep this truck for 7-10yrs so I want it to last but $400 is a lot of money to spend, especially if it's not 100% necessary.

 

Oh oh now you did it!:beer::beer:

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Ha! Not trying to stir the pot, just trying to make an educated decision.

 

I did mine for preventative maintenance. No real other reason. I plan on keeping the truck for quite a while so anything i can do for longevity I will. My biggest issue is with the direct injection and no way to keep the intake valves clean. If this was a port injection motor, I would not even bother with a catch can.

 

nice write up and nice install Op! Looks super clean!
I will say the only thing your system lacks is the added vacuum from the passenger side turbo intake. I have been thinking of different ideas, and would like to do my own DIY set up some day soon. would you mind if I implemented one or more of your ideas/components?

 

I debated about the added suction but ultimately didn't bother with it because of what info I found when researching what configuration i wanted to do. The people with dual independent catch cans weren't catching all that much in the drivers side can which lead me to believe that there would be marginal if any added benefit of a second vacuum source and that this motor spends more time under vacuum rather than boost. Plus with my configuration if I need to remove it for any reason, I don't have to worry about capping off or plugging that secondary hole. I have my original PCV lines if I need to put it back to factory, and a new air box cover as well. I bought all the pieces form Jegs and Summit Racing and went with a modified RX setup. Feel free to take whatever ideas you like and run with it. That's what I did.

 

^^^^what catch can are you running. I myself don't want to add the extra vacuum lines.


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read his whole thread and setup. it's super clean and on point!

 

Yup, everything looks plumbed in right. I love the look of the braided hose. Should work as long as the can separates well. Only way to tell is in the future pull your line apart at the intake manifold and see if any oil residue.

 

If that were the case, the driver side would also have a check valve/PCV. Which I don't think it does.


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If that were the case, the driver side would also have a check valve/PCV. Which I don't think it does. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Exactly why you could see oil there when the turbos spool up, creating a vacuum as the hose is right at the inlet of a turbo.

 

The Rx Can has a check valve on the all hoses iirc. Which is common, I've ran systems like that before



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The Rx Can has a check valve on the all hoses iirc. Which is common, I've ran systems like that before Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It does not have a check valve on the intake manifold hose. But yes it does on the other two which prevents any back flow.

 

As far as I am aware of, the factory configuration has only one PCV valve and that is in the passenger side valve cover. This closes under boost. The pre-turbo to the drivers side valve cover does not have one. It is my understanding that under factory configuration this is primarily a fresh air source and a way to relieve positive crank case pressure under boost with the PCV valve closed off. Thats as far as the factory configuration goes. With the RX configuration, the drivers side valve cover PCV barb is capped off. The Passenger side valve cover goes to the inlet of the can. The two outlets go to the intake manifold with a check valve that flows only to the intake manifold, and to the pre-turbo inlet tubes with a check valve before the T fitting to both tubes. This check valve also only flowing to the tubes. Now, under vacuum conditions both suction sources (intake manifold and pre-turbo tubes) are pulling the air through the can. Under boost, the intake manifold connection's check valve closes, and still the pre-turbo tubes are pulling air through the can. Now if the intake manifold suction is greater than the pre-turbo suction, the pre-turbo line check valve closes so that you are still pulling the air out of the engine and not just by passing from the pre-tubo inlet to the intake manifold inlet. Hence the reason for a dual check valve configuration.

As far as my fresh air intake source, I just replace my air filter at each oil change and ive only ever seen just a couple drips of oil on the filter element, so for me its not an issue at this time. If it ends up getting bad, Ill do the same and get a clean-side separator. My catch can is the Mishimoto Baffled model. It seems to be doing well. All my return lines from the can to the engine have been clean with no residue, so I guess its filtering the air just fine. I did put a layer of SS Steel Wool in the can to give the can more surface area to condensate on. Thats about it though. I think the biggest thing that helps catch cans is being mounted up front and staying cooler than engine temperature. This gives them greater ability to let the dirty air condensate and drop the oily mix out of the air. I am by no means an expert on this, this is just my understanding of the PCV system on the ecoboosts.

 

Good understanding Sir Boosted! The only thing incorrect is the cleanside should never flow backwards, that is the main flaw in the B PCV system. It is the same as a naturally aspirated engine uses and does work properly with a non-turbo engine, but no factory turbo vehicle with a proper PCV system designed for intake manifold boosting FI has the issues the EcoBoost or the Caddy ATS 2.0T has, and that is because they do proper evac using both sources.

The cleanside of any PCV system is just for that, clean, filtered incoming air only. That is why the EB is relatively easy to correct, but clean and dirty (fresh and foul in many service manuals) must NEVER be mixed. Doing so defeats one of the main functions, flushing and evacuating the foul compounds out as soon as they enter.

Cheers!

 

Hey Boosted, are you evacuating with both suction sources to the dirty side? Tell you what, install a RX can in-line AFTER the Mishimoto's best (the base RX..PM me for details) and run it for 1000 plus miles and (Mishi can must be removed and cleaned with brake clean of all existing oil) measure what each caught. The RX showing what got past the mishi...then do it in reverse for a thousand miles and see what gets past the RX can. Then you can see first hand. Cheers!

 

I have a Y fitting incoming from both valve covers into one line rather than just the passenger side only. Those go to the dirty side of the can. Then the clean side of the can goes to another Y fitting where one goes to the intake manifold with a check valve, and the other goes to to drivers side pre-turbo inlet only with a check valve inline there too as well. I did not tap into the passenger side pre-turbo tube. The fresh air is coming from the air box to the oil cap. Thats the configuration I'm running. I just wanted everything where I could easily take it back to factory if need be. As far as the can's abilities to filter the crud out of the PCV lines, it seems to be doing fine. Honestly I really don't have anything to prove if it works better or not than other cans on the market. I just took a chance on it and I was just reporting back with my results. If I have time later on, I might try the comparison. I appreciate the offer and all the knowledge and advice you give on this forum Tuner. It really helps when someone with experience and years of knowledge gives advice on different topics.