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Ha! Not trying to stir the pot, just trying to make an educated decision. :)
If you don't have anything in the tubes or CAC then you def do not need one. I would closely watch the line from your PCV to your intake manifold. But if it does start to (2,700 miles is not very much) then a can may be desired. Ultimately it is up to you. $400 can seem like a hard pill to swallow, specially when that much money can unleash some serious power. Lol
 
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Discussion starter · #24 ·
I did mine for preventative maintenance. No real other reason. I plan on keeping the truck for quite a while so anything i can do for longevity I will. My biggest issue is with the direct injection and no way to keep the intake valves clean. If this was a port injection motor, I would not even bother with a catch can.
 
nice write up and nice install Op! Looks super clean!
I will say the only thing your system lacks is the added vacuum from the passenger side turbo intake. I have been thinking of different ideas, and would like to do my own DIY set up some day soon. would you mind if I implemented one or more of your ideas/components?
 
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Discussion starter · #26 ·
nice write up and nice install Op! Looks super clean!
I will say the only thing your system lacks is the added vacuum from the passenger side turbo intake. I have been thinking of different ideas, and would like to do my own DIY set up some day soon. would you mind if I implemented one or more of your ideas/components?
I debated about the added suction but ultimately didn't bother with it because of what info I found when researching what configuration i wanted to do. The people with dual independent catch cans weren't catching all that much in the drivers side can which lead me to believe that there would be marginal if any added benefit of a second vacuum source and that this motor spends more time under vacuum rather than boost. Plus with my configuration if I need to remove it for any reason, I don't have to worry about capping off or plugging that secondary hole. I have my original PCV lines if I need to put it back to factory, and a new air box cover as well. I bought all the pieces form Jegs and Summit Racing and went with a modified RX setup. Feel free to take whatever ideas you like and run with it. That's what I did.
 
read his whole thread and setup. it's super clean and on point!
 
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read his whole thread and setup. it's super clean and on point!
Yup, everything looks plumbed in right. I love the look of the braided hose. Should work as long as the can separates well. Only way to tell is in the future pull your line apart at the intake manifold and see if any oil residue.
 
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read his whole thread and setup. it's super clean and on point!
Yeah, i screwed up. Had recently read this thread. So many different threads on similar subjects, its hard to keep up.

Ok, so from my understanding the driver side "clean air side" is suckin in air even under boost.
Which means there shouldn't be any kind of junk flowing into the intake/turbo as long as your PCV is working properly.
 
Yeah, i screwed up. Had recently read this thread. So many different threads on similar subjects, its hard to keep up. Ok, so from my understanding the driver side "clean air side" is suckin in air even under boost. Which means there shouldn't be any kind of junk flowing into the intake/turbo as long as your PCV is working properly.
I thought the turbo was supposed to be the vacuum source while under boost, which would mean oil could be sucked in.

Oh and to the OP , watch your air box, i had mine run similar without a CSS but have recently found oil in my air box. I had tried to get away without one but now had to order one.
 
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If that were the case, the driver side would also have a check valve/PCV. Which I don't think it does. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Exactly why you could see oil there when the turbos spool up, creating a vacuum as the hose is right at the inlet of a turbo.
 
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The Rx Can has a check valve on the all hoses iirc. Which is common, I've ran systems like that before Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It does not have a check valve on the intake manifold hose. But yes it does on the other two which prevents any back flow.
 
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Discussion starter · #36 · (Edited)
As far as I am aware of, the factory configuration has only one PCV valve and that is in the passenger side valve cover. This closes under boost. The pre-turbo to the drivers side valve cover does not have one. It is my understanding that under factory configuration this is primarily a fresh air source and a way to relieve positive crank case pressure under boost with the PCV valve closed off. Thats as far as the factory configuration goes. With the RX configuration, the drivers side valve cover PCV barb is capped off. The Passenger side valve cover goes to the inlet of the can. The two outlets go to the intake manifold with a check valve that flows only to the intake manifold, and to the pre-turbo inlet tubes with a check valve before the T fitting to both tubes. This check valve also only flowing to the tubes. Now, under vacuum conditions both suction sources (intake manifold and pre-turbo tubes) are pulling the air through the can. Under boost, the intake manifold connection's check valve closes, and still the pre-turbo tubes are pulling air through the can. Now if the intake manifold suction is greater than the pre-turbo suction, the pre-turbo line check valve closes so that you are still pulling the air out of the engine and not just by passing from the pre-tubo inlet to the intake manifold inlet. Hence the reason for a dual check valve configuration.

As far as my fresh air intake source, I just replace my air filter at each oil change and ive only ever seen just a couple drips of oil on the filter element, so for me its not an issue at this time. If it ends up getting bad, Ill do the same and get a clean-side separator. My catch can is the Mishimoto Baffled model. It seems to be doing well. All my return lines from the can to the engine have been clean with no residue, so I guess its filtering the air just fine. I did put a layer of SS Steel Wool in the can to give the can more surface area to condensate on. Thats about it though. I think the biggest thing that helps catch cans is being mounted up front and staying cooler than engine temperature. This gives them greater ability to let the dirty air condensate and drop the oily mix out of the air. I am by no means an expert on this, this is just my understanding of the PCV system on the ecoboosts.
 
Good understanding Sir Boosted! The only thing incorrect is the cleanside should never flow backwards, that is the main flaw in the B PCV system. It is the same as a naturally aspirated engine uses and does work properly with a non-turbo engine, but no factory turbo vehicle with a proper PCV system designed for intake manifold boosting FI has the issues the EcoBoost or the Caddy ATS 2.0T has, and that is because they do proper evac using both sources.

The cleanside of any PCV system is just for that, clean, filtered incoming air only. That is why the EB is relatively easy to correct, but clean and dirty (fresh and foul in many service manuals) must NEVER be mixed. Doing so defeats one of the main functions, flushing and evacuating the foul compounds out as soon as they enter.

Cheers!
 
Hey Boosted, are you evacuating with both suction sources to the dirty side? Tell you what, install a RX can in-line AFTER the Mishimoto's best (the base RX..PM me for details) and run it for 1000 plus miles and (Mishi can must be removed and cleaned with brake clean of all existing oil) measure what each caught. The RX showing what got past the mishi...then do it in reverse for a thousand miles and see what gets past the RX can. Then you can see first hand. Cheers!
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
I have a Y fitting incoming from both valve covers into one line rather than just the passenger side only. Those go to the dirty side of the can. Then the clean side of the can goes to another Y fitting where one goes to the intake manifold with a check valve, and the other goes to to drivers side pre-turbo inlet only with a check valve inline there too as well. I did not tap into the passenger side pre-turbo tube. The fresh air is coming from the air box to the oil cap. Thats the configuration I'm running. I just wanted everything where I could easily take it back to factory if need be. As far as the can's abilities to filter the crud out of the PCV lines, it seems to be doing fine. Honestly I really don't have anything to prove if it works better or not than other cans on the market. I just took a chance on it and I was just reporting back with my results. If I have time later on, I might try the comparison. I appreciate the offer and all the knowledge and advice you give on this forum Tuner. It really helps when someone with experience and years of knowledge gives advice on different topics.
 
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