Drop the downpipes.

Just replaced mine the other weekend while i was swapping them out. Takes me about 1.5 hrs in my driveway with ramps and jack stands.

If you haven't taken them off before you might have some trouble with the fasteners.

 

So everyone what I ended up doing I will list below in a few steps. First I couldn't get anything to fit as I stated above. Oxygen sensor deep socket wouldn't even fit on, because of the limited space. Small normal size offset oxygen sensor socket wouldn't get the leverage because of the angle and kept slipping off. What I finally did was I cut a 7/8 combination wrench/ box open end wrench in half.
1. jack up truck and put jack stand under passenger side frame.
2. remove passenger side tire.
3. remove wheel well liner or as i did bend it just enough and ran a screw through it to the other part of the wheel well to bend it enough out of the way. It looked like a huge pain in the ass to remove the liner. It went back perfectly into place.
4. spray down the oxygen sensor real good with a penetrating oil. I used CRC freeze off and it worked wonders. I usually use pb blaster but the CRC freeze off works great on stuff that wont budge.
5. Use a stubby combination wrench or cut a normal one in half and put the box end on the sensor. At this point all i did was push into it a little and it turned right out without a problem.
6. put new oxygen sensor in and plug into harness.
7. Unscrew wheel well liner and push back into place or reinstall wheel well liner.
8. Put tire back on and remove jack and jack stand.

 

FTR, I followed these instructions today and this is the right way to do it.. A few things that were different for me:

1. Removing the wheel well liner was not that bad. Took 10 minutes maybe to get it out and about the same to put it back. Having the entire area open was well worth it.
2. I had to use a breaker bar between the stubby wrench and the firewall to get it to break free, and that was after 3 treatments of PB blaster.
3. I cut the pigtail off the old sensor to get the box end of the wrench over the sensor. You will need to do that to take advantage of the better positions the box end provides.
4. 7/8 was too loose. I ended up with 22 mm which was perfect for both old and new. 7/8 I am afraid would have stripped. Anyone know why the difference?

Thank you for the advice!

 

I don't know what truck you have,but on my '16 4x4 2.7, I was able to change both upstream sensors without unbolting anything besides the sensors. It was a little bit of a challenge but not too bad. I got it with a wrench, with another wrench on the back end for leverage.

Baaaaaaaaaaa

 

Just changed this today and it was one of the easiest I have ever changed.

You can lay down underneath the truck and get to it with ease.
I did not jack it up, remove a wheel or a wheel liner.


Lay down under the passenger side door of the truck. Find the cat. One sensor is above it and one is below it.
Could not be more simple.

 

I agree. I changed mine with only a wrench and another on it for leverage. Didn't loosen any other parts or jack anything up.

Baaaaaaaaaaa

 

Damnit I see I've already said that. Lol

Baaaaaaaaaaa

 

Do all ecoboost engines have sesnors!?!?!?!?!

 

Nope. I've never seen a single "sesnor" on any of the EcoBoost engines offered from Ford.
However.....every single one of them have sensors.

 

Oh, OK!

 

How do you disconnect the connector? These connectors are worse than Chinese Puzzles, and the lack os space isn’t helping.
Thanks for any help.

 

I don't remember there being anything tricky about the connector at all. I don't remember specifically how it came apart bit seems like it was a pretty typical and simple connector.

Baaaaaaaaaaa

 

I don’t remember the exact location of the connection but it is somewhat of a pain from what I remember. The passenger bank one is the most difficult 02 to replace without a doubt


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Yes it is. There was nothing tricky about the connector, just lying on your back with no room to maneuver just made it difficult.

 

Hello Everyone - new guy here, I appreciate any info.

2013 F150 3.5 Ecoboost XLT Supercab; ~131,000 miles, bought it November 2016 from a Ford dealer with 100,000 miles on it. Everything is stock.

On 2/7/19 I threw a code P0131 bank one sensor one "circuit low voltage' according to AutoZone.

I can get a wrench on the sensor, but the plug connector is secured above the midpoint of the transmission, above a bracket to another cable, which I cannot unfasten - not to mention the lack of space or visibility. It's wedged between the trans housing and insulation that's up against the body. I don't want to monkey with loosening the sensor if I can't even get get to the connector.

I have the truck on ramps so I have room, and light, I see no benefit in removing the passenger tire/well lining as it won't benefit getting to the connector socket. I see above where a few have said they had no problem with the socket/connector. How?!? I can't even see it or feel it, let along work with it. Let me know if attaching pictures would help.

Please help! thank you.

 

Just got done with mine on a 2011. Great tips from everyone here, and thanks a bunch. Here's my two cents:

Truck on the ground or ramps. I'm small framed so the ground was fine. One good blast of WD-40 was plenty. Cut the old connector. Used a 22mm box end on the sensor and a 15/16 for leverage. Broke free after first try. Switched to a 7/8 afterwards because the sloppy fit makes it easier to finish loosening.

Honestly, I fought more with the plastic clips on the wiring harness. 12" straight needle nose took care of that too.

 

Hi all new to the forum. Anyone seen a picture or diagram floating around on where the passenger sensor Plug sits? Seems pretty jammed up in above the tranny and firewall.

 

so I could not drop the down pipe on my 2014 3.5 cause well 7 years will do that. So I ended up getting a line wrench (6 point with the small opening) that was 7/8 and 3/4 then stuck that on the O2 sensor and then took my ratchet with an extension and a spark plug socket on it due to the fact that it was 3/4 hex on top then put the extension through the 3/4 side pulled it down and gave it a turn. Came right out. I now have the same wrench that I welded the top that I cut off of that socket. Perfect f150 up stream sensor wrench. I know it’s late for a reply but hopefully this helps someone else

 

 

What some of us are dealing with.