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It is leaking right near the vacuum pump and in the lower rear corner. It tricks you a bit, thinking you have a vacuum pump leak. It turns out for me, it was both.


I ordered an aftermarket cover today from off ebay. It has pretty good reviews, so we shall see.
Mine was both as well. The pump was a huge leak to the point when I came to a stopp you could watch the smoke come out from under the hood. Almost wished it had causght fire so I could get a new one.

Keep us updated on teh ner cover. I'm not ready to do it since mine is a very small leak but would ike to have options.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Mine was both as well. The pump was a huge leak to the point when I came to a stop you could watch the smoke come out from under the hood. Almost wished it had caught fire so I could get a new one.

Keep us updated on the new cover. I'm not ready to do it since mine is a very small leak but would like to have options.
I had the same situation. It was embarrassing at stoplights, the smoke got so thick. After I replaced the pump, for a while, I thought I had the leak stopped, because I cleaned things up pretty well, but eventually I got smoke, not nearly as often or as bad. At least it can be driven.
I will review the cover and post here my assessment before and after installation.
It is not shipping right away, and I am not going to install it until we have consistent warmer weather here in Minnesota. I don't have to drive it daily so it can wait a little while.
 
I have a very leaky passenger side valve cover, part number DL3Z-6582-C.
The part is on back order nationwide with no ETA.
Does anyone know if there is an acceptable aftermarket cover? I don't want to do this job twice.
That’s kinda weird, two of my dealers in Tucson had them in stock. I did mine in early January because of smoke.
 
Discussion starter · #25 · (Edited)
I have received the right side valve cover from a company called CNS Motors, through Ebay.
I have attached a picture. It appears to be very nearly identical to the stock cover. I laid it on a flat surface, and it has no warp. It came with all the seals and gaskets, but I have decided to replace the seals and gasket with OEM, the plug hole and sensor seals are very stiff. I don't have the new OEM seals yet, so I don't have anything to compare to, but I do not want to risk a leak over a cheap seal.
It will be a few days before I get a chance to install it, and then I'll give a review. 
Image
 
I have received the right side valve cover from a company called CNS Motors, through Ebay.
I have attached a picture. It appears to be very nearly identical to the stock cover. I laid it on a flat surface, and it has no warp. It came with all the seals and gaskets, but I have decided to replace the seals and gasket with OEM, the plug hole and sensor seals are very stiff. I don't have the new OEM seals yet, so I don't have anything to compare to, but I do not want to risk a leak over a cheap seal.
It will be a few days before I get a chance to install it, and then I'll give a review. 
View attachment 194888
Did you ever get this installed? I need to pick one up but am interested to see what you have to say about it before.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Sorry, no I haven't installed it yet. I have to work in an unheated area and I don't use the truck as my daily driver so I will be waiting for warmer weather here in Minnesota.
The cover looks good on the bench, it's flat and has no flaws.
I chose not to use the aftermarket seals, and installed OEM seals, they fit well.
I'll be sure to post when I get it installed.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Today I completed the installation of the passenger side aftermarket valve cover.
As promised, I am following up on the install.
I am glad I got a new cover, after struggling for a few hours to remove all the wiring and plumbing attached and loosening the cover bolts, the first thing I did when carefully prying was to take off a piece of the cover. It was very brittle.
The removal was a huge pain. I broke 3 of the 'christmas tree push type' fasteners that were pushed into holes in the cover. They simply tore in two, using the proper tool to pry straight up.
I also broke one of the wiring harness fasteners that mount on the cover bolts.
I was very careful with the connectors and hose fittings and removed them successfully.
The seals around the plug holes were hard as a rock, and very stuck. I tried to cut them but just ended up breaking off two exacto blades. I ended up poking holes in them with a screwdriver until I could pry them loose. I broke the cover at that location on two plug holes prying against the cover, but didn't care because I was replacing the cover.
The cover came loose after getting the seals loose, and prying like crazy on the front lip of the cover. There would have been no way to save the cover, even though it appeared straight and without any cracks or deformities that I could see, save maybe the excess gap above the rear cam housing.
I think it was leaking at the very rear where it has a half-circle over the rear camshaft bearing housing. Maybe it warped there, as it seemed like there was a lot of distance between the cover and the top of the bearing housing.
Every seal was rock hard. The cover seal cracked in a few spots and stuck to the head. It wasn't bad to clean off.
The new cover didn't seem to have the same close tolerance to the plug hole seals as I think it should have, but the seals stayed in place during the install, so they shouldn't leak. I used OEM seals just for my piece of mind.
The cover went on well and had no variance in the cover seal surface all the way around. I think it will work well.
I'm happy that job is over.
The driver's side isn't leaking, so I am going to wait on that one.
The hardest part of this job for me is bending over the fender and front for several hours. I try all kinds of techniques to make it more comfortable. The best technique for me was moving blankets to lie on, but in the end, I need some pain meds and a chiropractor.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
Excellent post.
Even without pictures, you conveyed enough to paint them in my minds eye. :)

Good to hear everything seems like it should work as intended even though you were forced to go aftermarket. I know I would now consider an aftermarket attempt when I wouldn't have before you shared.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
There are a number of people to thank for their useful information.
I specifically wanted to thank a gentleman that did a nice detail of the job, and helped me with his tips. For some reason, I am unable to find his post or name.
His tip of cutting the seals (I basically broke mine) saved me some frustration.
Thanks SrpRacing for the sealant tip (Loctite 5699).
 
I was wondering if/how the spark plug tubes come out?

If the seal is cut to allow easier valve cover removal the remaining bits that are stuck to the spark plug tube would have to be cleaned off really well. It seems like this would be a lot easier to do on the bench than over an exposed valvetrain.
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
I don't know how the plug tubes come out. It appears to me that they are press fit. I would not suggest trying to remove them. I was fairly careful to keep the seals in large pieces just in case some fell in. It turned out that everything stayed with the valve cover, except a relatively large piece of the seal flange off the valve cover itself. It was easy to fish out. Nothing went down the tubes.
Messing with those tubes looks to me like more trouble. It's just not necessary.
 
Great review of the CNS part, I will be ordering one now! Im on back order with Ford on the OEM on that is $120. Initially they said in stock so I ordered it and sent back the gasket set I bought on Amazon. Then later in the day out of stock email. I dont want my truck to be out of service for weeks so this one will have to do.
 
Today I completed the installation of the passenger side aftermarket valve cover.
As promised, I am following up on the install.
I am glad I got a new cover, after struggling for a few hours to remove all the wiring and plumbing attached and loosening the cover bolts, the first thing I did when carefully prying was to take off a piece of the cover. It was very brittle.
The removal was a huge pain. I broke 3 of the 'christmas tree push type' fasteners that were pushed into holes in the cover. They simply tore in two, using the proper tool to pry straight up.
I also broke one of the wiring harness fasteners that mount on the cover bolts.
I was very careful with the connectors and hose fittings and removed them successfully.
The seals around the plug holes were hard as a rock, and very stuck. I tried to cut them but just ended up breaking off two exacto blades. I ended up poking holes in them with a screwdriver until I could pry them loose. I broke the cover at that location on two plug holes prying against the cover, but didn't care because I was replacing the cover.
The cover came loose after getting the seals loose, and prying like crazy on the front lip of the cover. There would have been no way to save the cover, even though it appeared straight and without any cracks or deformities that I could see, save maybe the excess gap above the rear cam housing.
I think it was leaking at the very rear where it has a half-circle over the rear camshaft bearing housing. Maybe it warped there, as it seemed like there was a lot of distance between the cover and the top of the bearing housing.
Every seal was rock hard. The cover seal cracked in a few spots and stuck to the head. It wasn't bad to clean off.
The new cover didn't seem to have the same close tolerance to the plug hole seals as I think it should have, but the seals stayed in place during the install, so they shouldn't leak. I used OEM seals just for my piece of mind.
The cover went on well and had no variance in the cover seal surface all the way around. I think it will work well.
I'm happy that job is over.
The driver's side isn't leaking, so I am going to wait on that one.
The hardest part of this job for me is bending over the fender and front for several hours. I try all kinds of techniques to make it more comfortable. The best technique for me was moving blankets to lie on, but in the end, I need some pain meds and a chiropractor.
Thank you for the insight!!

I also just picked up the same valve cover from CNS as you did and am incredibly impressed by the quality of it as well as the nearly identical shape to the factory one. Overall, I dont necessarily see a need to go factory after this as the cover is incredible. I would absolutely recommend to anyone looking for a valve cover!
 
Today I completed the installation of the passenger side aftermarket valve cover.
As promised, I am following up on the install.
I am glad I got a new cover, after struggling for a few hours to remove all the wiring and plumbing attached and loosening the cover bolts, the first thing I did when carefully prying was to take off a piece of the cover. It was very brittle.
The removal was a huge pain. I broke 3 of the 'christmas tree push type' fasteners that were pushed into holes in the cover. They simply tore in two, using the proper tool to pry straight up.
I also broke one of the wiring harness fasteners that mount on the cover bolts.
I was very careful with the connectors and hose fittings and removed them successfully.
The seals around the plug holes were hard as a rock, and very stuck. I tried to cut them but just ended up breaking off two exacto blades. I ended up poking holes in them with a screwdriver until I could pry them loose. I broke the cover at that location on two plug holes prying against the cover, but didn't care because I was replacing the cover.
The cover came loose after getting the seals loose, and prying like crazy on the front lip of the cover. There would have been no way to save the cover, even though it appeared straight and without any cracks or deformities that I could see, save maybe the excess gap above the rear cam housing.
I think it was leaking at the very rear where it has a half-circle over the rear camshaft bearing housing. Maybe it warped there, as it seemed like there was a lot of distance between the cover and the top of the bearing housing.
Every seal was rock hard. The cover seal cracked in a few spots and stuck to the head. It wasn't bad to clean off.
The new cover didn't seem to have the same close tolerance to the plug hole seals as I think it should have, but the seals stayed in place during the install, so they shouldn't leak. I used OEM seals just for my piece of mind.
The cover went on well and had no variance in the cover seal surface all the way around. I think it will work well.
I'm happy that job is over.
The driver's side isn't leaking, so I am going to wait on that one.
The hardest part of this job for me is bending over the fender and front for several hours. I try all kinds of techniques to make it more comfortable. The best technique for me was moving blankets to lie on, but in the end, I need some pain meds and a chiropractor.
Thank you for your detailed description! I found this forum based off needing to decide if I’m going to do this on my own or not .
 
It is leaking right near the vacuum pump and in the lower rear corner. It tricks you a bit, thinking you have a vacuum pump leak. It turns out for me, it was both.
As far as consumption, it's almost not detectable. However, it drips right on the exhaust, and smoke rises to the cab fresh air intake. My truck smells like burnt oil all the time, and I need to cycle the recirculation all the time.
I ordered an aftermarket cover today from off ebay. It has pretty good reviews, so we shall see.
This is EXACTLY word for word what my truck is doing ! Literally could have wrote this myself !
 
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