[winchested]

This can totally be in my head but ever since I threw on the brown pcv valve into my 2011 the truck never felt right. I performed many kam resets etc and nothing changed. Power actually seemed to go down. So I dug deeper.

I gathered some very information from a Ford Technician regarding the tsb and what changes it made. He states these engines are very sensitive to changes. On the brown pcv valve for the updated ecoboost, Ford actually reduced the size of the hole for crankcase evacuation to decrease the amount of blowby going back into your intake. But what they failed to mention was that reducing the hole increases crankcase pressure. With this change required them to reflash the trucks ecu. While they were at it they reduced the amount of fuel used on start up to warm up the cats to aid fuel dilution.

He recommended to anyone with a 11-12 to stick with the black pcv unless you have the tsb performed. He said not all trucks exhibit the fuel in oil issue and that most that were affected were in wet/cold climates.The amount that goes through is presumably compensated for in the ECU somewhere. If you change the calibrated orifice , the compensation probably adjusts just fine - but some trucks behave different than others. 13+ trucks must use the now standard brown pcv valve as with any newer ecoboosts.

Ever since I heard that I threw the black pcv back in and my truck was back to normal.

Hmm. Curious about that. I went to the brown valve years ago and have never had fuel in my oil after the addition of the catch can. However I've always seemed to have a rough idle with it. But PCV really has nothing to do with idle, which sensor is pulling the pressure or vac reading due to this smaller orifice?

 

[winchested]

Evacuating over a wide range will always be better. Hence why I threw my black pcv back in my 2011. Gained a lot of my drive ability back and the idle was VERY smooth. Also the power felt like how an ecoboost should feel. Not only that but I had little to no oil on the end of the pcv hose after the switch back.

Ford switched to evacuating at idle as the now GEN 2 motors incorporate some sort of baffling on the valve cover. My ranger and raptor both have baffling.

I'll switch mine back and see if it helps the idle.

 

[winchested]

I went back to the original pcv idle is way smoother tha with the brown one.

 

[winchested]

I put my black one back in. Don't see a difference.

Could be because I run the dual valve catch can?

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[winchested]

I was actually going to go into detail on that in another thread. To shorten it...Those running a dual valve setup will notice no difference between the two valves because of how the can is routed and the amount of check valves used. There is no benefit running a dual valve. If anything they’ve actually made the ventilation less effective.

The check valves they claim are “high flowing” are not high flowing at all and have a very low flow coefficient. Not only that but the check “ball” valves they use weigh more than the plunger used in our PCV valves.

Well the benefit is I'm not baking on oil carbon on my valves...

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[winchested]

The standard UPR check valves that have the Teflon internals actually functioned better than the “upgraded” ball type. The Teflon internals kept the functionality of the pcv valve but of course flow was slightly interrupted. (More info to come). The internals were lighter than pcv plunger.

The so called “Upgraded” check valves actually require a lot more effort to open and to stay open. They are not zero cracking At all. That is very false. The standard check valves had a much lower cracking pressure than the upgraded. Our pcv valve actually has a cracking pressure of .2psi. That’s VERY low. You can use that for reference. Anything that has a higher cracking pressure renders the pcv inoperable.

Because they went with a ball design it’s incredibly difficult to pull open and allow flow. You can even test this yourself. Suck on the pcv valve and realize how easy it opens allowing full flow. Now try the “upgraded” check valve. Notice how it cracks then does not open anymore? You can even feel/hear the ball jumping around struggling to open. That’s a big no no and is ultimately making the pcv ineffective to do its job. Now imagine two or three of those on long lines. Now that the valve is farther away from the source of vacuum, it’s job is now even harder to open.


Crankcase pressure with the standard check valves was still reading atmospheric to positive( due to flow restrictions), BUT it was lower than with the upgraded check valves Mx

There's only 1 on each line flowing away from the can.

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[winchested]

Yes that’s correct. I was more so getting the point across having more than one check valve, that is barely operable by itself, in a system. Not only that but larger lines require more vacuum to allow them to function and having them placed far from the source taxes the amount of vacuum needed as well. I observed this on 5 different vehicles all with the same results.

I even contacted UPR about what I was observing between the two check valves and all they gave me was a cold shoulder. That if I’m not happy with my product to move to another.

By all means anyone can keep running that setup, but you are just getting less than stock crankcase ventilation.

Ah good to know thanks. Been running mine near 100k km, seeing no leakage on the engine which is good.

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[winchested]

So have we come to the conclusion of the best PCV valve for use with a Dual valve catch can? I put the original 2011 black pcv back in, runs a bit smoother at idle now but get way more in the actual catch can (water condensate mostly).

The brown one was less in the can but a bit rougher idle.