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The 10R80 in my truck runs hotter. It tends to follow engine temps (after some time lag) which I think is by design. I have seen it 230 a couple of times which really bothers me, but after much reading/research I have come to the conclusion this is not an issue, especially for short periods. Also, I have already changed the fluid at 45k, and will probably do it about every 50k or so to be safe.
The 10R80 is using the Mercon ULV too. Im sure it is solid at those temps.

When tfl truck took the new 7.3L super duty up the ike the 10 speed was in the 240’s im pretty sure. I am assuming the 7.3 has a stouter cooling system.
 
The 10R80 in my truck runs hotter. It tends to follow engine temps (after some time lag) which I think is by design. I have seen it 230 a couple of times which really bothers me, but after much reading/research I have come to the conclusion this is not an issue, especially for short periods. Also, I have already changed the fluid at 45k, and will probably do it about every 50k or so to be safe.
That's all you can really do, right?

Afterall, the 10r80 isn't like previous transmissions, in several ways. Including the actual fluid itself!

I thought this was a really interesting take on this specific transmission, along with the slightly different approaches that Ford/Chevy took with their fluid specs, relatively speaking.




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I was seeing high trans temps on the stock setup with fresh trans fluid. This was from relying on the trans to pull a load up a long grade (6 miles or so) to stay out of boost. Ever since going to the Saudi cooler I have no trans issues at all. Even performing the same trick to stay out of boost, I only see up to 220 max.
 
I was seeing high trans temps on the stock setup with fresh trans fluid. This was from relying on the trans to pull a load up a long grade (6 miles or so) to stay out of boost. Ever since going to the Saudi cooler I have no trans issues at all. Even performing the same trick to stay out of boost, I only see up to 220 max.
That is the beauty of a tune. Mine never unlocked the TC when in T/H mode.

Now that I am running my own tune, I am gunna have to figure out how to keep it locked up.
 
What's considered hot? I'll admit I don't tow in super high elevations, but where we go we hit the occasional 7% grades that go for a few miles. My temps never reached 227 or higher, and it only went that high passing a semi and I punched it a bit. I'm only pulling a 6200lb trailer.
I have a 17 with 3.5 and max tow. It gets up as high as 243 empty and maintaining 2000 rpm, going up a slight grade. then drops back down when I crest the hill?
 
I have a 17 with 3.5 and max tow. It gets up as high as 243 empty and maintaining 2000 rpm, going up a slight grade. then drops back down when I crest the hill?
If it's sitting at 2000RPM, surely you are in boost on the grade. And I'm guessing a considerable amount. If you were to lock those overdrive ratios out, or get your rpms up a bit, the Temps would reflect it with increased water pump speed and less heat dumped from the turbos.

This huge thread has substantial evidence regarding the technique.

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I have a 17 with 3.5 and max tow. It gets up as high as 243 empty and maintaining 2000 rpm, going up a slight grade. then drops back down when I crest the hill?
I never saw anywhere near that ECT when my truck was “empty” regardless of speed, grade, gear, ambient, etc. ... even bone stock. My experience is it takes fairly extreme conditions to produce this ECT.

Sounds like something mechanical is not right, or perhaps there are other details being left out of your description. Is this truck stock? Is it possible there is a mechanical issue? What were the rest of the “conditions”? Ambient, grade, speed, etc.
 
I never saw anywhere near that ECT when my truck was “empty” regardless of speed, grade, gear, ambient, etc. ... even bone stock. My experience is it takes fairly extreme conditions to produce this ECT.

Sounds like something mechanical is not right, or perhaps there are other details being left out of your description. Is this truck stock? Is it possible there is a mechanical issue? What were the rest of the “conditions”? Ambient, grade, speed, etc.
There seemed to be some 2017’s that had these issues and they were fixed by replacing the radiator. Not sure what the deal is.
 
I know towing OP's are like; hey Meaz-lol....what's been happening with this thread?
Well, glad you asked. Even though towing season is a few months away.
Ambient temps today are around 74°; blue skies beautiful. (weather report)
I can see that the replacement of the the Thermal Coolant Bypass Valve and the extra 7qrts of transmission fluid / AFE Deep Dish Aluminum pan is really going to payoff!!
My main concern while towing heavy in the extremely hot AZ conditions was the fact the transmission was getting hotter ( average 205-215 ) and staying that way through long altitude pulls where the 170°T was ( 185°-215°).
So the truck couldn't scrub the temps fast enough working against the transmission temps-IMO.
Heres a couple pics of gauges while grocery getting. I like the way the OEM Transmission gauge shows it at barely above cold!
And no the transmission hasn't skipped a beat, even when we've seen morning temps in the 40°'s- no harsh shifts.
I think I've added a bit more cushion when tackling those hills! We shall see[emoji1690]
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Ohh and my first pull of 2021?
A little 40 mile round trip moving the TT at like 5:30am in the morning!
Thank goodness for the LED TT tongue lights[emoji106]
"Night Moves"...aka Bob Seger!!
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I know towing OP's are like; hey Meaz-lol....what's been happening with this thread?
Well, glad you asked. Even though towing season is a few months away.
Ambient temps today are around 74°; blue skies beautiful. (weather report)
I can see that the replacement of the the Thermal Coolant Bypass Valve and the extra 7qrts of transmission fluid / AFE Deep Dish Aluminum pan is really going to payoff!!
My main concern while towing heavy in the extremely hot AZ conditions was the fact the transmission was getting hotter ( average 205-215 ) and staying that way through long altitude pulls where the 170°T was ( 185°-215°).
So the truck couldn't scrub the temps fast enough working against the transmission temps-IMO.
Heres a couple pics of gauges while grocery getting. I like the way the OEM Transmission gauge shows it at barely above cold!
And no the transmission hasn't skipped a beat, even when we've seen morning temps in the 40°'s- no harsh shifts.
I think I've added a bit more cushion when tackling those hills! We shall see[emoji1690] View attachment 170652 View attachment 170653

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I wish someone made a lower temp thermostat for the trans instead of just deleting it all together. Even with the factory tstat my transmission takes an hour to get up to temp.

Running consistently below 180F is not good. It prevents moisture in the fluid from vaporizing. Id want a 175-180F tstat.
 
I know towing OP's are like; hey Meaz-lol....what's been happening with this thread?
Well, glad you asked. Even though towing season is a few months away.
Ambient temps today are around 74°; blue skies beautiful. (weather report)
I can see that the replacement of the the Thermal Coolant Bypass Valve and the extra 7qrts of transmission fluid / AFE Deep Dish Aluminum pan is really going to payoff!!
What is this Thermal Coolant Bypass Valve? Where is it located? Didn't you add the Saudi Cooler to your truck? That should fix the trans issues.
 
What is this Thermal Coolant Bypass Valve? Where is it located? Didn't you add the Saudi Cooler to your truck? That should fix the trans issues.
@DNA Dan ....this valve is located above the lead frame assembly, so you have to drop the pan and remove all parts. It's a little valve that restricts (IMO) flow to the transmission. With the replacement valve fluid immediately flows through system without having to wait to reach 195° or whatever OEM flowing temp is.
I first came across an article for the Duramax diesel guys. Their trucks transmission were getting hot as well towing, but the article stated that the stock cooler was more than adequate.
So that's where I got the idea from.
 
I didn't know that's what it's called. I thought it had something to do with the engine coolant directly. If you guys want to install a lower t-stat for the trans, just perform the delete in the trans housing, then buy an aftermarket inline thermostat to install in the line somewhere. It should probably have a constant weep so it's always purging any air in the system. Something like this might do the job. Mishimoto Inline Oil Thermostat
 
I ordered a new water pump for when I put in my Mishimoto radiator. There is only maybe 5 mm of clearance between the ID of the pulley and the housing, so i doubt there is much to be gained but may be worth 10%(say the pulley is 100mm diameter and could be shrunk 10mm)

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Ill have to take measurements on the pulley to see what exactly could be gained.
 
There's not enough room there for anything appreciable on the water pump side. I think you'd have to increase the crank pulley and perhaps offset the alternator with a larger pulley to keep the RPM the same on the accessory.
 
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I wish someone made a lower temp thermostat for the trans instead of just deleting it all together. Even with the factory tstat my transmission takes an hour to get up to temp.

Running consistently below 180F is not good. It prevents moisture in the fluid from vaporizing. Id want a 175-180F tstat.
I bet you could "squish" the spring, lol.
 
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