Do it right do it once. You hit them proper and if you didn’t hit them or they hit you, or whatever happened, I think you did a splendid job on it. Think how and what the plan is before adjuster comes out. I had my entire truck painted for a rear end that was not horrible.

 

I only want to do this once, one reason I thinking about an offroad bumper. But it will be different than the front and I don’t like the bulky look of 95% of them. Gonna have to do some more checking.


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Looks like they are treating it like a rear-ender. So good news for me.

Now I just have to see if they will cut me a check and I can take care of the "repairs".

 

In California you only get a check if you own your truck outright. If it’s financed the body shop gets paid.

 

You should still have to sign off that the shop gets the check. And if not or if so, it’s a horrible law. Body shops are notorious for doin bad work. That sucks

 

Truck is all paid for, but I have no idea how All-State works in Canada (only had public insurance previously). Just waiting on the insurance adjuster to call me back.

I'm liking the idea a bit more of doing the off-road rear bumper, but only gonna swing it if they cut me a check. The motor is priority right now for budgeting purposes.

These are the only ones that I think I could live with and put a ADD bumper on the front eventually.

https://www.addictivedesertdesigns....tdesigns.com/rear-bumpers/f150-series-venom-rear-bumper-w/backup-sensor-cutout/

https://www.addictivedesertdesigns....signs.com/rear-bumpers/f150-series-dimple-r-rear-bumper-w/backup-sensor-cutout/

 

Sounds like you’re getting a check. Those are some expensive bumpers.

 

Yes, they aren’t cheap and I’ll probably never get tapped again. It’s just after two very low speed hits and the bumper flexed into the body panels, It will drive me up the wall if it happens again.


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Was thinking even smaller. These may be too wide though

 

I like the bottom one, but they don’t make it for the ‘11-14’s.


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I talk to the adjuster on Monday, so hopefully she will let me know which way they work it here.

 

When I got hit in rear, the insurance went directly to the body shop. I saw nothing.

Thankfully this body shop I found is AMAZING. Rave reviews on all kinds of car forums. I got complete new FORD bumper (2 pieces on each side that are painted) with the new plastic, bumper support on right side and completely new hitch. My bed was misaligned but they put it on frame machine that measures and no frame damage so they think the bed was mis aligned from factory and i never noticed..they fixed that too. The paint work was amazing, although when the paint is not next to another panel, you dont have to match the paint as well. They also treated me really well because they realize I was a car person and they kept commenting how mint my truck was and how "nothing has ever been in the back of it."

This is also why body shops want insurance work and not personal work because they make a **** ton of money. The dealership charges full price for the parts, then their labor. $$$$

 

Last time I got rear ended, they gave me a check for a replacement bumper pcs (of oem quality), paint job (at a body shop cost to repaint the whole bed), replacing all the plastic pieces, and labor to do replace it all. They cut me a check for 2,100$ dollars. I bought new plastic cover caps for 260$, touched up the paint for 15$ replaced the plastic parts, and pocketed the rest.

They are getting wise to people not fixing it at all, pocketing the money them they turn In a crashed up lease.

Yea, the consumer will get it done cheeper and they know that.

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I hope they cut me a check, but we’ll see.


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So Talked with the All-state rep. I have $0 deductible (0% at fault) and they will give me $1000 to put towards a aftermarket bumper and fix the damage to the panel.

Pretty happy with that and bumper is on order. I have a local accessory place that thinks they know where one is in stock. That would be great, as I wouldn't have to wait for a freshly built one.

This is the one I went with.

https://www.drivingline.com/articles/add-f-150-venom-rear-bumper-review/

I need to see it in person, but I may try and modify it a bit and then get it line-x'd.

 

Sick! Glad it is working out for you. And nice coverage man

 

Well, not sure what to do. Motor has gotten quiet again. No way to get a motor through warranty, so I’m contemplating doing the engine swap myself. I don’t really have any time constraints and the new house has a larger garage.


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Well, there seems to be a few folks all in a knot over the cost to build a motor, pair it with some other upgrades and install.

So, I'm open to discuss on this thread or I can open up a new one in the performance section.

Here are some of the add-ons and additional costs above a custom "Long Block" for MY build. I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff and I'm not including stuff that I already bought (Turbo's and other bolt-ons).

These are US prices, I pay 25-30% more for everything to get it here north of the boarder.
XDI-35 HPFP =$1600
Upgraded in-tank pump = $200
Fuel return system with lines, regulator, filter, basket, sock, etc = ~$600 (haven't hammered out what specific parts I'm gonna use yet)
Circle D Torque Converter = $1400 (I paid expedite fee)
Full Race Rad = $800
Full Race Trans Cooler = $400
Improved racing Oil Cooler adapter with thermostat = $200
Setrab Oil cooler (custom coated and custom bracket) = $300
Gaskets and Hardware to swap motor = $500
Amsoil Transmission flush and the pan drop and filter swap = $400
Shipping engine = ~$750
Customs/duty fees = $1000

Options on the table
Engine install = $2000
Engine Lift, Stands misc stuff = $400

Total = $8,550 - $10,150 with some flex in there due to deals on parts and some options not being picked yet.

Can you do a build cheaper, 100% for sure you can. I chose the parts and vendors for durability, reliability and the fun of making the truck mine.

@TXRipper, I don't need someone shouting at me from their soapbox and comparing this to "just buy a Gen 2". This is my path and gives me a nice custom truck vs. a 2018 that looks and drives like everyone else. For me, if I cared about track times or HP numbers, I wouldn't be doing this in a 6300lb truck with a winch.

I couldn't justify throwing down $40k for a new truck on top of my trade in to end up starting all over again.

 

Sounds pretty reasonable to me considering I paid over 8k just for the swap/tune/fuel upgrades and still don’t have a truck to drive


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Can you do a build cheaper, 100% for sure you can. I chose the parts and vendors for durability, reliability and the fun of making the truck mine.

@TXRipper, I don't need someone shouting at me from their soapbox and comparing this to "just buy a Gen 2". This is my path and gives me a nice custom truck vs. a 2018 that looks and drives like everyone else. For me, if I cared about track times or HP numbers, I wouldn't be doing this in a 6300lb truck with a winch.

I couldn't justify throwing down $40k for a new truck on top of my trade in to end up starting all over again.

I’m glad you posted this.

Your truck, your money, your happiness!

what I was shocked about was the dollar amount, there has been many many posts about the cost of these builds, but no real information.

Much of what is posted has been smoke and mirrors, talk of how cheap it is, but now dollar amounts.

Now we can start to see some real numbers and they are higher then eluded too.

Granted your up north and there is a conversion of the dollar and the penalty tax.

 

while you make good point about the cost of the blower you missing the math for the big horse power is was chasing

Gen 1 3.5 ecoboost $7000-8000 efr kit (gen 2 is $11,000ish) that’s just the power adder then you need $10,000 engine (can be done cheaper) some of these engines are up to $15,000+ then you need fuel upgrades hpfp, maybe cams and injectors $1500-$5000 if they even work

coyote $6500-9000 for the power adder no engine needed, you want exhaust and fuel to chase 750+ wheel add $2000-$3000

these estimates don’t include labor or up north tax/penalty

And most of all they don’t guarantee they you will meet your goal except with the coyote.

Totally agree and I personally think you chose the best route for your goal.

But if you don’t have a coyote to begin with, you gotta buy it. Since most are on here because they have a eco and many with 12th Gen’s, that’s a cost to factor in.

I really think it’s pointless to compare costs to some degree, there are many different goals and budgets and starting points that each person needs to factor for themselves.

But your jabs at “if they will even work” and “don’t guarantee that you’ll meet your goal except a coyote” are trying to shove your perspective down people’s throats without considering other people’s goals or objectives.


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But your jabs at “if they will even work” and “don’t guarantee that you’ll meet your goal except a coyote” are trying to shove your perspective down people’s throats without considering other people’s goals or objectives.

I can see where you would feel like these statements are jabs, but to me they are facts based on what I’ve seen here and the real world over the last 2 years.

You know if someone could have made 800rwhp like has been claimed it would have been done.

Not jabbing I’m trying to use facts to show my point of view

 

Dyno Booked for October 15th to get baseline numbers. This will be with GT's, Ported OEM Manifolds, SPD Adapters and 33" AT tires. Everything else will be 100% bone stock.

 

Good insight! And I'll go ahead and say it to you (not that you need my validation), but if you have the hard earned money that you have worked for and saved, and want to spend it...then it's YOUR money and you spend it in any manner that you see fit and that you and your wife agree upon. Your truck, your money, your decisions, your happiness!

BTW- I will be honest and say that I NEVER took into account that you are in Canuckistan and that shipping, duties, taxes, exchange rate, etc come into play and are a big addition to your overall cost.

 

FYI, I did actually start a thread for exactly this conversation. Obviously you have every right to allow your build thread to host the conversation instead.

By the way, I could probably live with those additional costs associated with being "north of the border", but I'm not sure I could come to terms with the short summers? Lol

$2000 for the motor swap labor?
So THAT one aspect is cheaper in Canada?

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I am lucky on the motor swap. Family works at a local Ford dealer (local, now that I moved). I am also friends with the Service Manager and the tech I would be getting to do the work. As mentioned earlier in the tread, I think I will be doing the swap myself. I haven't 100% made up my mind yet, but my buddy could just come over, have a beer and "check my work".

I'm going off of memory, but I think a "long block" swap flat rate is 18 hours. $150 per hour for normal shop rate would be $2700 in just labor. There's hardware, shop supplies and fluids on top of that.

 

I'm a little late to the party, but I've had to file a few small insurance claims with Farm Bureau. For me, there was a dollar amount below which the check was just sent to me ($1500 I think). Over that, they needed to see the work before they cut the check and sent it to the body shop. I had hail damage checked out and got $1200 for it that I pocketed and decided to live with the damage. On the same truck I had a bedside repaired and the whole passenger side painted, they inspected that first and cut the check to the body shop.

This was all on a truck I owned outright.

Baaaaaaaaaaa

 

Perhaps I can dig up the invoice I received from Rev Auto...then some people can see some real dollar figures on what they can expect.


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looks awesome!

 

Yea, the "procedure" for getting that wicked built motor from first-firing to its first properly tuned and ring-seated state is fairly complicated. Logistics are going to require diligence.

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I love that sort of thing. Grew up with a Dad that new how to turn a wrench and loved doing it with friends. I kicked around the shop while he did some really cool resto's.

That was a good chunk of my young life, only it was more likely to happen with sleds, quads, sea-doo's or boats.

 

some of us had to turn a wrench if we wanted our cars to run.

 

The high cost could be considered "outrageous", I guess. But that's a matter of perspective.

There's so many folks that pay Big Buck$ for fast cars/trucks/SUV's. At what amount do you claim outrage?

Again, I don't really understand why anyone that did some due diligence would be under the impression this wouldn't be an expensive route? It's a little motor with crazy potential, but requiring a premium to get there.

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I think it's considered outrageous because you can get more for less with similar vehicles but other power plants.

Baaaaaaaaaaa