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2014 FX4...Slowly making progress

278K views 2.4K replies 77 participants last post by  WooBoost  
#1 · (Edited)
I figured it was time to get all my additions to the truck listed out and tracked. I have it all documented on a Detailing site, but obviously doesn't get a whole lot of views.

Current upgrade list
Exterior
Raptor Wheels and 285/70/17 Ridge Grapplers (winters)
Raptor Running Boards
MX GrillCraft Upper and Lower Grills
OEM 2016 Sport 20" with OEM Hankook's (Summers) - SOLD
Expel film on front Bumper
Spray in Box liner
Morimoto XB Fogs
Removed lower air dam
Access "Vanish" tonneau cover
AVS in-channel visors
AVS bug deflector
AS 2" level
Hellwig sway bar
Pro-Comp AAL
Fox 2.0 Rear shocks
Rear wheel well liners
EZ Tail Gate assist
Pop a lock tail gate lock
LED bed lights
Recon 3rd Brake light
Recon Tail lights
Recon LED puddle lights
ANZO LED marker lights
Flat black FX4 Bed decals
Custom flat black "EcoBoost" decals
Painted F150 emblems
Painted FORD emblems
50% ceramic window tint on the from windows
42" LED Light bar - Removed for FR CAC
12v/5v Power outlet in box of the truck

Interior
Raptor Steering Wheel
WeatherTech Digital Fit Mats
3M protective film on the door sills
Kicker Subgate upgraded sub
DRW-650 2-channel dash cam
Back seat access mod
Custom Hydro dipped door panel inserts and stereo surround
Full LED interior light conversion
Custom overhead light switch panel

Performance
SCT Xcal4 Tuner with MPT tunes (87 perf/chill, 87 tow/street, 91 Perf/street, 91PRX, 93PRX)
Full Race FMIC in Black
Tial BOV
AFE Stage 2 CAI
3" MBRP Cat-Back Exhaust (added Magnaflow 6" round muffler)
GT Turbos
Ported Manifolds
SPD Turbo adapters

I started out with a new 2014 FX4 Screw luxury pack in Blue flame. 7200# GVW, 3:55's. Pretty much all options other than Max tow and Apperance pack. Built in November of 2014 and I bought it March of 2015.

Bought the truck from family that work at a dealer, great deal as I was able to get it for less than used. Downside is it was 600miles away. Thankfully, my Uncle delivered it for me.

I had them put 3M on the bumper and do a Spray in liner. They did a great job with both.
Window Sticker

Day I got it.


I already had a 2" AS level for it that I put in a couple of days later
Before

After


The kit came with a 3" rear block, but I figured it would put too much rake back in for my taste.
on level ground, it measures perfectly level. I would have liked a bit of rake, but I address that later on...much later.
 
#605 ·
One change that I wanted to highlight, that was a awesome bang for the buck...

I swapped out the original front sway bar bushings for moog poly bushings. I wasn't expecting a hole lot of difference, but was pleasantly surprised.

They tightened up the front end more than I thought and really improved turn-in. For a cheap mod, I highly suggest if you are into handling improvements.


https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K200846...VG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1546928053&sr=8-1&keywords=2014+F150+Sway+bar+bushing
 
#610 ·
How will your run return fuel system when noone makes a hat for the f150 yet? If ytou're modifying the stock hat I will be interested to see how this works, on other vehicles it always seemed to be problematic.

I would no longer recommend stifflers traction bars (I thought you had a 15+? anyways).
 
#613 ·
It's pretty easy to mod the stock hat.

In my case, I take the stock hat, remove the stock Fuel pump and regulator.

Add a 90* elbow fitting right to the top of the hat. This serves as the connection for the new fuel pump.

Line goes directly from new pump to new fitting. A new -8 line connects from the new fitting to the new Filter I installed by the EVAP box.

Line goes from Filter directly to Radium regulator. Regulated fuel to HPFP.

I moved the OEM fuel line to the "return" side of the regulator. This then connects back to the hat at it's original connector. Under the hat, I have added a line that dumps the returned fuel back into the tank.

So, a new connection at the hat, new line to feed fuel and then the OEM line becomes the return line. Easy Peasy.
 
#618 ·
stifflers:

pros-right set up, meaning the bar goes all the way to frame.
they work great becasue this set up
-they are tucked up higher than other companies so you dont loose ground clearance

CONS-
for my tremor the bars were too long placing the nuts inside the brackets, i had to make a custom wrench to tighten the nuts, which i still use (you wont have this problem). Initially they told me to just have the bar ends milled slightly so they would be shorter so the nut would be outside the bracket. :rolleyes:
-the bracket and bar have rust on them even being power coated from stifflers and the paint is falling off
-the end joints all rusted and completely froze on mine. I had to buy replacements from them just this year for 100$. It was a slight discount but i still had to. They are using a new manufacture now and said thee are better. They said salt from road should not hurt these. I only made it one winter.
-with these freezing and a combo of the front brackets loosening (tighten those a lot more than 85ft lbs per instructions) I drove around forever with so much clacking and squeaking. The brackets were moving up and down slightly rubbing the frame causing the squeal (and rubbing through the factory e coat). The rusted/frozen end links were making the loud bangs going around corners.
-you do have to drill frame. I sray fluid film on the now rubbed through frame and the hole i drilled to prevent rusting.

So far the new hardware is a lot better, no noise. So hopefully it stays this way.



FOr the hat, you are drilling and tapping the plastic? What about the basket? Im not sure of this. I have some fuel plans for this year talking to some places. Just gotta be patient.
 
#621 ·
Thanks for the input. Honestly, I bought these bars new and un-used for such a cheap price, that I'll give them a shot. I don't plan on installing them until summer and only if I have wheel hop issues. With the extra leaf, I may be OK.

Yes, I'm drilling the plastic top, but not tapping it. The fitting I have (Thanks @RMB Ryan) will be held in place via nut. Obviously sealed with the appropriate o-rings and washers.

I did something similar on my Mustang and had zero issues for years.
 
#619 ·
Wish I could provide input on the Stifflers but I didn’t get to even drive the truck once they were on. Sometime in the future perhaps.

I’ve never heard anybody with the problems as @WooBoost. I’ll say I’m sure hoping I don’t go through the same. I’m in FL so I don’t have the salt to worry about. Definitely a straightforward install for myself. Under 3 hours from start to finish


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#622 ·
Wish I could provide input on the Stifflers but I didn’t get to even drive the truck once they were on. Sometime in the future perhaps.

I’ve never heard anybody with the problems as @WooBoost. I’ll say I’m sure hoping I don’t go through the same. I’m in FL so I don’t have the salt to worry about. Definitely a straightforward install for myself. Under 3 hours from start to finish


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They are a "cheaper" option, so I can't say I'm surprised. I would only run them in the summer months and be pretty liberal with the anti-seize.
 
#640 ·
While browsing I was thinking how bad ass a set of these would look with the blue in the engine bay. Should add a few horsepowers eh... RMB FTW
 
#641 ·
Stock T-Stat back in. The 170* was too cold for sub freezing temps.

Also put in a 3 bar map and a lower rad hose without the oil cooler loop. I’ll get up a pic, but I’m convinced the stock hose and oil cooler loop are a restriction that isn’t helping those with overheating issues.


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#642 ·
I didn't notice a hug difference in anything really with my 170. Engine temps of course were lower, but I never overheated before. No noticeable sop increase in tunes adjusted to account for it. No increase in timing, etc. I put mine back in and will leave it that way unless I ever experience overheating.

Baaaaaaaaaaa
 
#653 ·
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#656 ·
Man those sure look pretty ?
 
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