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Discussion starter · #541 ·
Didn't get the motor today, it showed up a day late at the local hub. Scheduled for 9-11am delivery tomorrow.

I have tomorrow off, so I hope to get a few things done on the truck tomorrow.
 
Discussion starter · #545 ·
I got a few small things done today. Still have to order a few parts and figure out plumbing for the fuel set up, so not in much of a rush.

Icon Upper A-arms installed, Front Diff fluid changed, some minor things swapped over to the new motor and a few things like wire harness and turbo's/manifolds pulled from the old one.

Oh, I also fixed my f**k up from when I did the IWE's last time. I tightened down the axle nut before I made sure the axle, IWE and hub were all lined up. Ended up breaking the IWE in two...FFS. All well, another new IWE installed with more care this time.

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Diff change is pretty easy with the motor out, lol.

Collected about 1.6 liters of fluid, so pretty good.

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Icon's installed. These worked out to being a hair over $500US. Couldn't pass them up (yes I have a problem when deals come up).

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Old motor is looking a bit more bare

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Why did you use 80 90 non severe gear?


I have new struts and shocks waiting to be installed...why do you even need to mess with IWE to install this? How do I make sure I dont mess them up? (havent researched yet install procress)
 
Discussion starter · #548 ·
Why did you use 80 90 non severe gear?


I have new struts and shocks waiting to be installed...why do you even need to mess with IWE to install this? How do I make sure I dont mess them up? (havent researched yet install procress)
Just a mix up when I ordered the fluid, so in it went. I did gear severe gear for the rear though. Fine with me as the front diff just sits there the bulk of the time.

You don't have to mess with the IWE to swap the coil-overs, but I found it faster that dropping the lower A-arm. The reason the original messed up, was that the vacuum line came off the drivers side IWE. I am pretty sure it happened while I was on one of the trails exploring. New ones were swapped in as I just didn't want to mess around in-case the grinding messed one up. I broke a brand new one, by tightening the nut before the axle was fully engaged with the IWE and hub (see rushing sh*t).

I would suggest measuring the how far out the axle stub sticks from the hub. This way you can reference to ensure that you got the axle all the way engaged and in before you snug down the nut. It takes a bit of wiggling, but not that bad. Ford recommends putting a vacuum source on the hub, tightening the nut and then releasing vacuum.

Or, you could just avoid the whole problem, by dropping the lower a-arm. That will give you enough slack to get the OEM coil-over out of the strut tower.
 
Discussion starter · #549 ·
Didn't get as much done as I wanted today. We got almost 5" of snow and I "had" to go out and play with the little boy and shovel. We had a blast.

So today, I really just made sure I had everything pulled off the old motor I will need. I also did a review of my parts list and found a couple things I'll have to get ordered up.

It's a bit of a bummer, but I'll be on the road after tomorrow for the rest of the week for work. So ziltch will get done other than a parts order and hopefully a few straggling small upgrades I threw at Ryan.

Things left to hammer out before I can start install
- Engine bay clean up
- Oil Cooler mount location
- Oil Filter mount location
- Fuel lines for return system
- Fuel filter and regulator location


Separate Maintenance
- Paint Correction and coating
- Rear diff fluid and new cover
- Rear diff clean up and painting
- Krown Coating
- Transfer case fluid
- Tranny Fluid and filter

I never ran a catch can and have to day, in 55k miles, this doesn't look too bad to me.

Worst set of valves (#1 Cyl)
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Didn't get as much done as I wanted today. We got almost 5" of snow and I "had" to go out and play with the little boy and shovel. We had a blast.

So today, I really just made sure I had everything pulled off the old motor I will need. I also did a review of my parts list and found a couple things I'll have to get ordered up.

It's a bit of a bummer, but I'll be on the road after tomorrow for the rest of the week for work. So ziltch will get done other than a parts order and hopefully a few straggling small upgrades I threw at Ryan.

Things left to hammer out before I can start install
- Engine bay clean up
- Oil Cooler mount location
- Oil Filter mount location
- Fuel lines for return system
- Fuel filter and regulator location


Separate Maintenance
- Paint Correction and coating
- Rear diff fluid and new cover
- Rear diff clean up and painting
- Krown Coating
- Transfer case fluid
- Tranny Fluid and filter

I never ran a catch can and have to day, in 55k miles, this doesn't look too bad to me.

Worst set of valves (#1 Cyl)
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Hey Ryan, what did you need for those small bits on the new motor? I have them almost 110% . I will throw them in a box with the other boxes
 
Discussion starter · #552 ·
Didn't to a single thing today other than stare are the truck for a while and look at the CRP manifolds that showed up today.

They look really good. A tad smaller openings than Jerry's ported manifolds.

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Oh boy! I think these heads are gonna flow nicely.

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Discussion starter · #553 ·
Got back from a week long work trip. Spent a bit of time on the truck tonight. Painted and installed the motor mounts, High-Pressure fuel line installed, Alternator and Belt tensioner put on and cleaned up some of the mess in the garage.

Also put in Moog front sway bar bushings and end-links. Hoping it tightens up the front a bit.

Hopefully, I'll Get the outstanding parts this week so I can start getting the motor back in place. I'm working with Mr. Brown on some good fuel lines to route from the tank to the motor for the low pressure side.
 
What fuel filter is that? Still going to be returnless? I am thinking in the near future a company will release a aftermarket hat so a full system can be installed.
 
Discussion starter · #556 ·
What fuel filter is that? Still going to be returnless? I am thinking in the near future a company will release a aftermarket hat so a full system can be installed.
The filter will be between the tank and the regulator (going to mount it close to the EVAP canister.

I'm changing over to a regulated return system. Basically, new basket, in-tank pump and main line. I'll be using the existing main line as my return line.

The goal is to keep the fuel cool for the HPFP (also acts like a heat exchanger) and will prevent the in-tank line from splitting, like I've seen on a few other upgraded pump set-ups.

Bonus is that I will know I have clean fuel getting to the HPFP and injectors.
 
Discussion starter · #557 ·
A few OEM parts showed up today
Mercon LV
Tranny filter
Main belt
AC belt
Turbo to manifold gaskets
Raptor Trans mount

I took tomorrow off, hope to get the paint done at the very least. Want to clay, correct and coat.

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Discussion starter · #559 ·
What's the ETA for a first drive?
Goal is to have it running for Christmas. I need to get it running, tuned and broken in before a road trip in February.

Should be doable, but I have to go on one last business trip next week which will cut into some time to get stuff done.


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Discussion starter · #560 ·
I was able to get the paint done today (well basically the sides).

ONR waterless wash
Meguiars regular clay with ONR clay lube
Spot hits with M101 and orange LC cutting pad on the PC (4” pad)
M205 with a white 5.5” LC pad on the Rupes
Optimum paint Prep
Optimum Gloss Coat

I gotta say the Gloss coat went on very easy. If it holds up, it’s gonna be a staple in the arsenal.

Paint was still in pretty good shape a door rub and a few scratches had to be dealt with, but nothing too bad. Clay only picked up some tar, probably thanks to the C.A.R. Bullet proof that went on last time.

After wash and clay

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A couple of dings
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Detailing in Croc today, lol
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After
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