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This site has been a let down for weeks. I’ll get an email that tells me there is a new post in the threads that I’m subscribed to. I’ll go to that thread using the link in the email and it won’t show a post for the past 10 days. I know there’s a new post because I can read it in my email. I have been able to make a comment in that thread and log out of the site, log back in and it will catch the thread up. This has been in a variety of threads that I’ve noticed the problem.
 
Discussion starter · #603 ·
Still seems OK for me since I cleared my cache.

Truck stuff. I now have everything I need to complete the return fuel system. So when I get back home on Friday, I'll drop the tank and get it finished up and the regulator set.

Went for another blast tonight, this thing is fun.
 
Discussion starter · #604 ·
Time to update the list!

Current upgrade list

Exterior
RCI Aluminum Skid Plates
Method Racing wheels with 305/55/18 KO2's
Raptor Running Boards
MX GrillCraft Grill
Expel film on front Bumper
Spray in Box liner
Morimoto XB Fogs
Removed lower air dam
Access "Vanish" tonneau cover
AVS in-channel visors
AVS bug deflector
Pro-Comp AAL
Fox 2.5 Coil-overs with DSC
Fox 2.0 Rear shocks
Rear wheel well liners
EZ Tail Gate assist
Pop a lock tail gate lock
LED bed lights
Recon 3rd Brake light
Recon Tail lights
Recon LED puddle lights
ANZO LED marker lights
Flat black FX4 Bed decals
Custom flat black "EcoBoost" decals
Painted F150 emblems
Painted FORD rear emblem
12v/5v Power outlet in box of the truck
Fumoto Valve
Rough Country Hidden 1010 winch mount
SmittyBilt 10k "X20" Winch
BuiltRightIndustries Bed rack/panel system
Yakima Bed Rack system (Mounted to Bed rails)
PowerStop Rotors with Raybestos hybrid pads
Kevlar Brake lines
Spicer Rear Diff Cover
Aimsoil Fluid in front and Rear Diffs

Interior
Raptor Steering Wheel w/Blue Vinyl Centering Stripe
WeatherTech Digital Fit Mats
3M protective film on the door sills
Kicker Subgate upgraded sub
DRW-650 2-channel dash cam
Custom Hydro dipped door panel inserts and stereo surround
Full LED interior light conversion
Custom overhead light switch panel
CravenSpeed Dead Pedal
BuiltRightIndustries - Rear Seat Latch

Performance
RMB Built Motor!
- Closed Deck Block
- Custom JE Pistons with Custom Ring Set and Coating (9.5:1)
- Manley I-Beam Rods
- Gen 2 Crank (micro polished with modified oiling)
- Pocket Port "R" heads
- Upgraded Valve Springs w/OEM Valves
- Custom Grind HPFP cam
- XDI-35 HPFP
- Return Fuel System with Injector Dynamics External filter, Walbro 450 Fuel Pump, Radium regulator, B&M fuel line
Circle D Torgue Converter 2500-2700 Stall
SCT Xcal4 Tuner with MPT tunes (87 perf/chill, 87 tow/street, 91 Perf/street, 91PRX, 93PRX)
Full Race FMIC in Black
Tial BOV
AFE Stage 2 CAI
2019 Raptor Turbo/OEM Turbo Hybrid's
CRP Manifolds
SPD Turbo adapters
Full Race Catted and Ceramic Coated DP's
Full Race Resonated Cat-Back
Full Race Catch Can
Full Race Gen 2 Radiator
Remote oil filter using Improved Racing Adapter and remote mount
Setrab remote oil cooler
Ford Raptor "Saudi" Trans Cooler



To be installed
Stifflers Traction Bars

 
Discussion starter · #605 ·
One change that I wanted to highlight, that was a awesome bang for the buck...

I swapped out the original front sway bar bushings for moog poly bushings. I wasn't expecting a hole lot of difference, but was pleasantly surprised.

They tightened up the front end more than I thought and really improved turn-in. For a cheap mod, I highly suggest if you are into handling improvements.


https://www.amazon.com/Moog-K200846...VG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1546928053&sr=8-1&keywords=2014+F150+Sway+bar+bushing
 
Looking great my friend. Impressive list you’ve compiled along the way. Think mine looks something similar, from what I remember when I last saw the truck!


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How will your run return fuel system when noone makes a hat for the f150 yet? If ytou're modifying the stock hat I will be interested to see how this works, on other vehicles it always seemed to be problematic.

I would no longer recommend stifflers traction bars (I thought you had a 15+? anyways).
 
Discussion starter · #611 ·
Looking great my friend. Impressive list you’ve compiled along the way. Think mine looks something similar, from what I remember when I last saw the truck!


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I think they are pretty close! I would like to lift, but doubt it as the truck wouldn’t fit through the garage door.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Discussion starter · #613 ·
How will your run return fuel system when noone makes a hat for the f150 yet? If ytou're modifying the stock hat I will be interested to see how this works, on other vehicles it always seemed to be problematic.

I would no longer recommend stifflers traction bars (I thought you had a 15+? anyways).
It's pretty easy to mod the stock hat.

In my case, I take the stock hat, remove the stock Fuel pump and regulator.

Add a 90* elbow fitting right to the top of the hat. This serves as the connection for the new fuel pump.

Line goes directly from new pump to new fitting. A new -8 line connects from the new fitting to the new Filter I installed by the EVAP box.

Line goes from Filter directly to Radium regulator. Regulated fuel to HPFP.

I moved the OEM fuel line to the "return" side of the regulator. This then connects back to the hat at it's original connector. Under the hat, I have added a line that dumps the returned fuel back into the tank.

So, a new connection at the hat, new line to feed fuel and then the OEM line becomes the return line. Easy Peasy.
 
Discussion starter · #614 ·
How will your run return fuel system when noone makes a hat for the f150 yet? If ytou're modifying the stock hat I will be interested to see how this works, on other vehicles it always seemed to be problematic.

I would no longer recommend stifflers traction bars (I thought you had a 15+? anyways).
Why no on the Sifflers? My truck is a 2014.
 
It's pretty easy to mod the stock hat.

In my case, I take the stock hat, remove the stock Fuel pump and regulator.

Add a 90* elbow fitting right to the top of the hat. This serves as the connection for the new fuel pump.

Line goes directly from new pump to new fitting. A new -8 line connects from the new fitting to the new Filter I installed by the EVAP box.

Line goes from Filter directly to Radium regulator. Regulated fuel to HPFP.

I moved the OEM fuel line to the "return" side of the regulator. This then connects back to the hat at it's original connector. Under the hat, I have added a line that dumps the returned fuel back into the tank.

So, a new connection at the hat, new line to feed fuel and then the OEM line becomes the return line. Easy Peasy.
Modding your hat from flat beak to curved? ;) But seriously what is the HAT that you refer to? And is that the real name for it?
 
Get VAS traction bars, they are pretty dang awesome
 
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stifflers:

pros-right set up, meaning the bar goes all the way to frame.
they work great becasue this set up
-they are tucked up higher than other companies so you dont loose ground clearance

CONS-
for my tremor the bars were too long placing the nuts inside the brackets, i had to make a custom wrench to tighten the nuts, which i still use (you wont have this problem). Initially they told me to just have the bar ends milled slightly so they would be shorter so the nut would be outside the bracket. :rolleyes:
-the bracket and bar have rust on them even being power coated from stifflers and the paint is falling off
-the end joints all rusted and completely froze on mine. I had to buy replacements from them just this year for 100$. It was a slight discount but i still had to. They are using a new manufacture now and said thee are better. They said salt from road should not hurt these. I only made it one winter.
-with these freezing and a combo of the front brackets loosening (tighten those a lot more than 85ft lbs per instructions) I drove around forever with so much clacking and squeaking. The brackets were moving up and down slightly rubbing the frame causing the squeal (and rubbing through the factory e coat). The rusted/frozen end links were making the loud bangs going around corners.
-you do have to drill frame. I sray fluid film on the now rubbed through frame and the hole i drilled to prevent rusting.

So far the new hardware is a lot better, no noise. So hopefully it stays this way.



FOr the hat, you are drilling and tapping the plastic? What about the basket? Im not sure of this. I have some fuel plans for this year talking to some places. Just gotta be patient.
 
Wish I could provide input on the Stifflers but I didn’t get to even drive the truck once they were on. Sometime in the future perhaps.

I’ve never heard anybody with the problems as @WooBoost. I’ll say I’m sure hoping I don’t go through the same. I’m in FL so I don’t have the salt to worry about. Definitely a straightforward install for myself. Under 3 hours from start to finish


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Discussion starter · #620 ·
Modding your hat from flat beak to curved? ;) But seriously what is the HAT that you refer to? And is that the real name for it?

It's the Fuel Pump Assembly that is in the tank. I always called it a "Basket", but apparently it's a hat in the Eco world.
 
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