[WooBoost]

-10 is big enough for feed and return. If your worried about pressure drop, calculate the pressure drop for a given length of -10 ID hose, with whatever fittings (i.e. 90 degree, 45 degree, etc) and throw in a couple extras for the inlet and outlet restrictions of the filter block,etc etc. I bet its very very low pressure drop.

Also choosing the fittings and hose is based on how YOU want to route it and where YOU want to mount it, so you need to decide what fittings you want. AN fittings are available is many different bend angles and all hose sizes, so take your pick based on where you plan on routing it. The inlet/outlet adapter to the block is the only thing that may not be trivial. Then again I have never looked so it might be an easy, off the shelf solution.

Some say -10 is ok and other say it is not. Going -12 would just be over kill if anything right? I would rather play it safe.

The plate adapter, I still don't understand how it works not seeing the back side of it...how is the dirty oil and clean oil differentiated?

 

[WooBoost]

Nevermind, your just screwing an adapter plate with AN fittings onto the stock oil filter threaded tube. Choose fittings for -10 AN hose, buy a piece of -10AN hose, mount your new filter, cut your 2 hoses to the correct length, install onto AN fittings, and route your lines between adapter plate and new filter block, where you want them. Done.

Yes, this is exactly how I am planning on it (well thinking about it now)....seems relatively simple on paper.......

 

[RoastinF150]

Some say -10 is ok and other say it is not. Going -12 would just be over kill if anything right? I would rather play it safe.

The plate adapter, I still don't understand how it works not seeing the back side of it...how is the dirty oil and clean oil differentiated?

The 2 fittings in that adapter plate are seperated. See this picture below, oil flows in around the outside ring of the filter and then up through the center of the tube into the engine. So with the plate, the oil will flow out of the outside ring hole still on the block, into this plate that now has a fitting for the outlet, it passes through your filter, cooler, etc (whatever you put inline), and then when it goes back into the inlet fitting, that goes into the center of the threaded tube. So it is still seperated.

 

[RoastinF150]

Thats why the adapter plate is $100, because there is a bit of machining to the thing with offset internal passages. There are cast aluminum ones for like $20-$30 out there also, but improved racing makes a nice product.

1 thing you need to keep in mind, is too LOW of oil temperatures is BAD. You want the oil temperature to get up to high enough operating temperature so water vapors do not condense out and stay mixed with the oil. If its not vaporized, then the PCV system will not pull it out.

Another solution improved racing sells is a thermostatically controlled oil cooler sandwich spacer. Only lets the needed amount of oil to the cooler to maintain constant oil temps. This is the way to go. If you wanted to relocate the filter AND use a thermostatically controlled cooler loop, you can get the external inline ones that passes oil through the filter ALL the time obviously, and has a bypass to control how much goes through the cooler and how much doesnt, so oil temps stay right where they need to be.

 

[WooBoost]

The 2 fittings in that adapter plate are seperated. See this picture below, oil flows in around the outside ring of the filter and then up through the center of the tube into the engine. So with the plate, the oil will flow out of the outside ring hole still on the block, into this plate that now has a fitting for the outlet, it passes through your filter, cooler, etc (whatever you put inline), and then when it goes back into the inlet fitting, that goes into the center of the threaded tube. So it is still seperated.

View attachment 49813

Ahh, so the "IN" on the improved racing plate is threaded onto the threads the filter would go on and the out is offset where the dirty oil goes.

Thats why the adapter plate is $100, because there is a bit of machining to the thing with offset internal passages. There are cast aluminum ones for like $20-$30 out there also, but improved racing makes a nice product.

1 thing you need to keep in mind, is too LOW of oil temperatures is BAD. You want the oil temperature to get up to high enough operating temperature so water vapors do not condense out and stay mixed with the oil. If its not vaporized, then the PCV system will not pull it out.

Another solution improved racing sells is a thermostatically controlled oil oil cooler sandwich spacer. Only lets the needed amount of oil to the cooler to maintain constant oil temps. This is the way to go. If you wanted to relocate the filter AND use a thermostatically controlled cooler loop, you can get the external inline ones that passes oil through the filter ALL the time obviously, and has a bypass to control how much goes through the cooler and how much doesnt, so oil temps stay right where they need to be.

You are the second person now to mention oil temps. Why would oil temp control be changed here? The oil filter screws onto the oil cooler at the engine in stock form. Just like you mentioned above, what I am doing is just moving the filter out to an easy spot to get to it, the originally cooler is staying as is and should work as stock?

 

[RoastinF150]

Oh you had mentioned a setrab cooler (top of the line btw) originally I thought?....if you are retaining the factory cooler and just relocating the filter than you have nothing to worry about.

If you want a setrab cooler, check out ebay for used ones, they are on there alot for cheap. Also the cheap china coolers, lines and fittings work pretty dam good, have ran them successfully on many cars, a few of which are heavily abused road racing track cars.

I do not like rubber/stainless braided lines, I always run teflon/stainless braided lines. The lines are much smaller, rated at WAY higher pressures, last much longer and priced the same. They use similar "looking" fittings but the preparation of the hoses for the fittings is more involved. A brass ferrule is used with it. for fuel lines DO NOT use the rubber/stainless lines, they are porous and your vehicles will smell line gas because the fuel literally evaporates THROUGH the rubber material, teflon this is a non issue

 

[RoastinF150]

Ahh, so the "IN" on the improved racing plate is threaded onto the threads the filter would go on and the out is offset where the dirty oil goes.

Correct!

 

[RoastinF150]

Check this out:

http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Cooler-Filter-Relocation-Plate/dp/B00ZVMQQMI?ie=UTF8&keywords=oil%20filter%20relocation%20plate&qid=1461867124&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

If you put a thermostatic control valve inline, you would have a nice setup.

 

[RoastinF150]

There are cheaper options for the improved racing adapter, like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Filter-Relocation-Fitting-Adapter/dp/B00Y5GBZJU?ie=UTF8&keywords=oil%20filter%20relocation%20plate&qid=1461867194&ref_=sr_1_16&sr=8-16

Just find the right one for our ecoboost filter size and threaded filter stud. Then you can run any size filter you want when you relocate it.

 

[RMB_Ryan]

What? That is built into the stock cooler? The only thing I am moving is the filter.

He is referring to use of oil cooler not what you are looking to do.

 

[WooBoost]

Oh you had mentioned a setrab cooler (top of the line btw) originally I thought?....if you are retaining the factory cooler and just relocating the filter than you have nothing to worry about.

Go back to post 1 real quick and click on the setrab link, it is "remote filter head" just to relocate the filter. I am keeping stock cooler as is. The improved racing plate would screw onto the stock cooler, where the filter currently goes. It should cool the oil the same, right?

There are cheaper options for the improved racing adapter, like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Filt...e=UTF8&keywords=oil filter relocation plate&qid=1461867194&ref_=sr_1_16&sr=8-16

Just find the right one for our ecoboost filter size and threaded filter stud. Then you can run any size filter you want when you relocate it.

That thing says 20 x 1.5....according the amsoil we are 22 x 1.5. The improved racing is made for four different thread sizes you can select from.

 

[WooBoost]

Improved racing tells me "the inside diameter of the filter mount is what matters. It needs to be at most 2.5" for the gasket to seat correctly with our plate. As long as the ID of the gasket on the filter is less than 2.5" and the OD is less than 3.1", it should fit."

Knif87 has the stock mount in his pictures, he says the ID is 2.6...so at the moment it is looking like it would not fit? Seeing if Rbrown or Knif can take more measurements to confirm.

 

[noodles]

???



Ya, what lines and fittings?



I looked at them a while ago, it looks like junk.

I don't think you were looking at them, cause last time I looked "at them" it didn't look like junk. Yes, there's much nicer stuff out there, but bang for the buck filter heads and adapters, I'd say Derale is right there with an SCT tuner for our trucks.

 

[Beaker80]

Oil filter plate on engine is 22mm X 1.5 pitch. The Derale kit I installed came with several options for this. The remote filter mount nipple was 3/4 X 16. I originally installed an adaptor to install 2 stock Ford 22 X 1.5 filters to prove the system worked and did not effect oil pressure then I switched to 2 large filters (3/4 X 16).

 

[WooBoost]

Improved racing tells me "the inside diameter of the filter mount is what matters. It needs to be at most 2.5" for the gasket to seat correctly with our plate. As long as the ID of the gasket on the filter is less than 2.5" and the OD is less than 3.1", it should fit."

Knif87 has the stock mount in his pictures, he says the ID is 2.6...so at the moment it is looking like it would not fit? Seeing if Rbrown or Knif can take more measurements to confirm.

Correction, through contact, they looked up the stock motorcraft,fl500s?, and amsoil eao017, said their plate adapter will work.

Also, they make their own brand of hose and an fittings which comes with a lifetime warranty and sell Setrab. I asked them to put together a quote for everything, hoses, fittings, plate, Setrab then I will see if I want aeroquip or not. Their hose/fittings seem pretty well built (shrug)

 

[WooBoost]

Pretty much have the kit all put together. Need to decide where I am mounting the filter to see how much room I have before I order everything and filter. It is going to be roughly $350 without filter!

I am going to use -10AN lines and not -12. It is cheaper, and was told less than 1psi difference between them for oil pressure if anything.

 

[DNA Dan]

OP, did you ever install this in your truck? How does it perform? I am looking to do something similar. Thanks.

 

[Beaker80]

I'm still running my modified Derale dual filter relocation system. Works perfectly. Original O ring on the adaptor base. Using 2 large filters instead of stock single small filter. Originally installed 2014.

 

[mass-hole]

Out of curiosity, did the filters that fit the derale have the same bypass pressure as the OE filters? This was a problem on the Subaru’s, where the aftermarket filters had way to low of a bypass. Wix was the only filter that had the correct bypass pressure.

Wix lists their f150 filter(57502) as 22 PSI

Fram says the XG10575 is 9-15psi(WTF)

The big 3/4-16 filter from the Ford Windsor’s is the Fram XG8A(or equal). It’s huge and is what I run in my Jeep. It lists a 12 psi bypass. The WIX version is a 51515 and shows 8-11 psi.

No idea what the specs are on the FL500.

 

[DNA Dan]

Thanks for the feedback. I don't want to just relocate, I want to install the thermostat sandwich adapter and install an aftermarket cooler assembly with a wired fan for towing grades. I have been looking at the Setrab units for this. I just read that a lot of the sandwich adapters can be leaky or have different flow issues like Mass-hole mentioned. Any suggestions would be great.