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How easy was it to get your driving lights setup as your DRL's?
It’s a matter of changing one number in the BCM.

Find the 2011-2014 As Built spreadsheet for details.
 
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Changing values for the tire size does not seem to work. After 4 different tries, no change from OBD2 speed and GPS. I'm at 74.7 and OBD says 71. I guess there's limits to what Forscan is capable of.
 
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How easy was it to get your driving lights setup as your DRL's?
Just enter the correct "bit switch" code into Forscan.

The code is in the documentation showing what can be changed and the code needed.
 
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Changing values for the tire size does not seem to work. After 4 different tries, no change from OBD2 speed and GPS. I'm at 74.7 and OBD says 71. I guess there's limits to what Forscan is capable of.
They may be different for the pre 2015 but they do work on the 2015+. I've never seen/looked for settings for your generation.
 
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They may be different for the pre 2015 but they do work on the 2015+. I've never seen/looked for settings for your generation.
Says it's a different line than the 2015+. I may just have to swap it to a bigger size via the drop down menu. Getting it closer than that would be nice.
 
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I remember reading that if the BCM and PCM don’t have the same tire size it will error and revert to the PCM setting which would be your OEM tire size unless you have a actual tuner. No personal experience using FORScan for tire size since I use my Livewire TS for that adjustment.


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I remember reading that if the BCM and PCM don’t have the same tire size it will error and revert to the PCM setting which would be your OEM tire size unless you have a actual tuner. No personal experience using FORScan for tire size since I use my Livewire TS for that adjustment.


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Thanks, I figured that's where I was at.
 
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It’s a matter of changing one number in the BCM.

Find the 2011-2014 As Built spreadsheet for details.
You don't need to change the as-built for the DRL setting. There's an option box that opens when you click on DRL zone in the BCM.
 
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Played with Forscan for the first time tonight. Pretty happy with the few changes I wanted to make.

- Nav enabled while moving (setting destination, etc.)
- Turned off hyper flash for the turn signals (Now I can finally put in the front LED bulbs
- Bambi mode
- Turned off TPMS (don't have them in my new wheels yet)
- Turn signal tap to 4 flashes from 3

I may try enabling the equalizer on my Sync 2, but can't think of much else I would do.
What line do you change for the signal flash?
 
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Can the same OBDII dongle work on forscan and the torque app?
Not sure if you mean at the same time, or not. But my cheap Wifi one works on Iphone X with Forscan, Windows 10 laptop with forscan, and 7" cheap Android Tablet with Torque pro, and forscan. Have only tried one at a time, but when I drive it again tomorrow, i'll see if it works 2 at a time.

This is only my adapter, maybe there is one made that does more than one at a time. Additional note, my Idatalink is hard wired into the OBD2 also while using these apps, which shouldn't matter. This is used for my TPMS, etc on the stereo head unit.
 
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you cannot add gauges but you can display the actual numbers over water & trans temps.
I think this is only for the 15+? The gauges on the 11-14 are still real gauges, not a screen so I don't think that would work? Been trying to figure out if I can add water temp, boost, etc to the Trans Temp screen as there's a bunch of extra room, but I don't think that's possible with the 11-14s?
 
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I’ve looked around a bit but don’t see this adapter discussed. Wondering if anyone is using the FORSCAN LITE with their iOS or Android device along with the OHP ELM327 OBD2 WiFi adapter (pictured below)? When it comes to FORSCAN LITE how LITE is LITE? I’m thinking you have to be giving up something. I can potentially see dropped signals or incoming calls being an issue using WiFi connection but maybe it’s better than I’d suspect. It would be great to use an Android Phone or iPad Pro via WiFi as opposed to pulling a much larger Windows machine out. If I could do this I’d be a happy camper. Any insight is appreciated. Thanks.
That adapter looks almost identical to mine, however I opted for the hard wired option. That said, I have only used Forscan with my Windows laptop. It has all the functionality. I've read that LITE pretty much has nothing and is more or less another Torque app.

It's worth it to bust out the laptop and just program everything you want and put it away. Very easy to do too.

Did anyone ever figure out Global windows on the 11-14 trucks? That's the only thing I still want that I don't have.
 
FORScan lite shows a lot more PID's then Torque Pro. Not to say torque cant display them, they just arnt mapped in.

Example, battery state of charge and amperage readings.

I use Torque Pro 100% of the time while driving for general PID monitoring (KR, OAR, temps, boost, etc.). I find it's UI for custom gauge display the best.

I use FORScan lite for diagnostics as you can pretty much pull up any sensor on the vehicle.
 
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Not sure if you mean at the same time, or not. But my cheap Wifi one works on Iphone X with Forscan, Windows 10 laptop with forscan, and 7" cheap Android Tablet with Torque pro, and forscan. Have only tried one at a time, but when I drive it again tomorrow, i'll see if it works 2 at a time.

This is only my adapter, maybe there is one made that does more than one at a time. Additional note, my Idatalink is hard wired into the OBD2 also while using these apps, which shouldn't matter. This is used for my TPMS, etc on the stereo head unit.
I meant separately, will it work on both applications. I am going to look into which OBD dongle I need and mess with the FORscan soon hopefully. Not much for me to really change ATM.
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
Forscan is a helpful tool to have.
I knew I had a problem with my HVAC.
Fault code>B1086 popped up...Air Distribution Damper Motor. Fault circuit to ground>toast.
Really just a confirmation for me.
YouTubed a bunch of videos on the fix....
Going to the Dentist looks like a better option than performing this repair.
Better me than having Ford charge me over $350+ to repair, especially when I'm sure the part itself is around $35.
I'm going for pulling the front dash/radio area slightly apart/entering through glove box as well....but that little module is a PITA to get at.
Motivating factor...... it would be nice having the dash defrost work rather than all vents blowing at the same time!
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