[snakebitten]

Just answered in the previous post sir.

 

[ndfan77]

Just answered in the previous post sir.

Ah, apologies, I figured you'd reply to the reply and didn't re-read the whole thread. I've had their EX for use with Forscan for quite awhile, but not the MX+ (had a cheaper BAFX OBDII interface for use with Torque, but it's been in storage for quite awhile). I actually ordered the MX+ last night just on a whim.

Many thanks!

 

[snakebitten]

The EX actually works great!
Really nice refresh rate. But the USB cable is a bit of a fuss.
You'll like the MX+

The "+" really just means you have pre-paid for the first "enhanced package" that you want to add to the OBDlink app. In this case it will be the Ford/Lincoln/Mercury package for your year model.

It's an impressive library.

 

[ndfan77]

The EX actually works great!
Really nice refresh rate. But the USB cable is a bit of a fuss.
You'll like the MX+

The "+" really just means you have pre-paid for the first "enhanced package" that you want to add to the OBDlink app. In this case it will be the Ford/Lincoln/Mercury package for your year model.

It's an impressive library.

The LV/HV SOC PB-specific detail in your screen cap definitely looks awesome (and I'm really looking forward to using the OBDLink app when the MX+ shows up). Before I posted I searched pretty hard for F150 PB-specific OBDII functionality and nothing looked close to having that type and/or level of detail -- much less combining two, three, or four discrete inputs into one graph (so I was expecting I'd probably end up hearing something along the lines that the screen caps were from a Ford proprietary app that wasn't available to the general public).

The LV SOC shows 85% in your screen cap. Is it safe to presume you changed your target SOC to 85% with Forscan? I think I may need to do that. If my PB sits for more than a couple days I get a Ford Pass alert that the truck is sleeping to preserve battery and then the interior lights stop working (which is an issue for my other half).

 

[snakebitten]

I'm glad you came across this info. I'm certain you will enjoy the look-under-the-hood, so to speak. And it all starts to make sense after you tie it all together. Takes a couple of thousand miles, but it becomes at-a-glance familiar soon enough.

As for the LV SOC value.......
You will find that PID value is NOT the same traditional SOC that you would declare if you tested the AGM with a voltmeter and then looked it up on a chart.

Example:

Of course that traditional chart is not exact either, nor do they all agree with each other. Here's another:

I think the Ford PID value is a proprietary value that is part of a rather sophisticated battery management strategy and although you can rely on it relatively, I wouldn't consider it as inline with the charts above as you might wish it to be.

I'll explain

I just did a real-time voltage reading on the 12V battery in my Powerboost. This is using a Bluetooth voltage meter attached to the AGM directly. Note the timestamp

So the "undisturbed" voltage is 12.63
About what it was this morning before I went to the office.

So I approached the truck this morning and, as you know, that "wakes up" the truck, and lots of modules, lights, and running boards take a quick toll on the battery. And since the OBD interface is triggered, I can get an immediate look at the voltage drop of the battery.
Dropped from >12.6 to 12.1

Also note that there's a 10amp pull on the battery, AND the High Voltage battery is NOT being tapped yet to supply current to the low voltage side.

I get in and turn on accessory mode. (I do NOT start the truck) (see below)

Immediately the DC/DC converter taps the High Voltage battery for 2.9amps @ 280V and supplies the 12V bus with 57 amps # 13V

Of which 31 amps is surplus, thus charging current. And the truck isn't even "running"!

I then wait a few seconds for all 42 modules to wake up and shake hands, and then press the brake and start the truck.

Voltage from the DC/DC converter now increases to 14.2V. Very similar to a traditional crank driven alternator.
About 45 amps are being consumed by the truck, and 32 are surplus for charging the anemic AGM. (77 amps supplied total)

By the way, it's very rare to see the charging current that high beyond a couple of minutes of the truck in ready mode. Especially once the Ford value for SOC approaches 85%. At that point it will switch to trickle charging at best.

Here's arriving home from the office. About a 50 mile commute for the day. I'm actually surprised it's still supplying >14V from the digital alternator, to be honest. Often it will drop to 12.7-12.9V

 

[Boatwaco]

Awesome explanation!

 

[ndfan77]

I'm glad you came across this info. I'm certain you will enjoy the look-under-the-hood, so to speak. And it all starts to make sense after you tie it all together. Takes a couple of thousand miles, but it becomes at-a-glance familiar soon enough.

As for the LV SOC value.......
You will find that PID value is NOT the same traditional SOC that you would declare if you tested the AGM with a voltmeter and then looked it up on a chart.

Example:

View attachment 193136

Of course that traditional chart is not exact either, nor do they all agree with each other. Here's another:

View attachment 193137

I think the Ford PID value is a proprietary value that is part of a rather sophisticated battery management strategy and although you can rely on it relatively, I wouldn't consider it as inline with the charts above as you might wish it to be.

I'll explain

I just did a real-time voltage reading on the 12V battery in my Powerboost. This is using a Bluetooth voltage meter attached to the AGM directly. Note the timestamp

View attachment 193138

So the "undisturbed" voltage is 12.63
About what it was this morning before I went to the office.

So I approached the truck this morning and, as you know, that "wakes up" the truck, and lots of modules, lights, and running boards take a quick toll on the battery. And since the OBD interface is triggered, I can get an immediate look at the voltage drop of the battery.
Dropped from >12.6 to 12.1

Also note that there's a 10amp pull on the battery, AND the High Voltage battery is NOT being tapped yet to supply current to the low voltage side.

View attachment 193139


I get in and turn on accessory mode. (I do NOT start the truck) (see below)

Immediately the DC/DC converter taps the High Voltage battery for 2.9amps @ 280V and supplies the 12V bus with 57 amps # 13V

Of which 31 amps is surplus, thus charging current. And the truck isn't even "running"!

View attachment 193140

I then wait a few seconds for all 42 modules to wake up and shake hands, and then press the brake and start the truck.

Voltage from the DC/DC converter now increases to 14.2V. Very similar to a traditional crank driven alternator.
About 45 amps are being consumed by the truck, and 32 are surplus for charging the anemic AGM. (77 amps supplied total)

View attachment 193142

By the way, it's very rare to see the charging current that high beyond a couple of minutes of the truck in ready mode. Especially once the Ford value for SOC approaches 85%. At that point it will switch to trickle charging at best.

Here's arriving home from the office. About a 50 mile commute for the day. I'm actually surprised it's still supplying >14V from the digital alternator, to be honest. Often it will drop to 12.7-12.9V

View attachment 193143

The MX+ showed up today and I've got the extended diagnostics loaded for Ford/Lincoln/Mercury. Would you be comfortable sharing an export of your dashboards and graph settings (menu option under Settings)? Looks like it could save a lot of work getting started!

 

[snakebitten]

Is your truck a 2022 or 2023?
OBDlink has a new package for the 2023 and it has been reported to be significantly different than 2021 & 2022

The fellas with 2023 trucks that have "imported" my dashboard, have done so by manually editing the truck profile to be a 2022. Otherwise the PID mapping wouldn't be the same as my dashboard.

But yes, by all means, feel free to import mine. Note that the attached file will be a fake pdf file. So after downloading it, change the extension on the file from pdf to stg. And then you can import it.

Depending on the resolution of your screen, you might have to "drag & move" a gauge here and there.

 

[snakebitten]

That export does include the OAR PID, which is a "user defined" PID. Not part of the OBDlink PID library.

It does not include the EOP (Engine Oil Pressure) user defined PID.

You can create it yourself after you get the dashboard imported and straightened out to your liking. I will post the PID parameters.

 

[ndfan77]

Is your truck a 2022 or 2023?
OBDlink has a new package for the 2023 and it has been reported to be significantly different than 2021 & 2022

The fellas with 2023 trucks that have "imported" my dashboard, have done so by manually editing the truck profile to be a 2022. Otherwise the PID mapping wouldn't be the same as my dashboard.

But yes, by all means, feel free to import mine. Note that the attached file will be a fake pdf file. So after downloading it, change the extension on the file from pdf to stg. And then you can import it.

Depending on the resolution of your screen, you might have to "drag & move" a gauge here and there.

Many thanks. I'll give it a shot shortly. My truck is a 2022 Lariat Powerboost.

 

[snakebitten]

Here is the EOP PID

You must enter the data exactly, for the 3 parameters pointed to

 

[snakebitten]

Many thanks. I'll give it a shot shortly. My truck is a 2022 Lariat Powerboost.

Great. Then it should be a straight forward import. Good luck.

And Yea, I have a few hours messing with the "Style" tool for every gauge.

 

[ndfan77]

Great. Then it should be a straight forward import. Good luck.

And Yea, I have a few hours messing with the "Style" tool for every gauge.

Yep, it loaded right up without any display changes needed (Galaxy S22 Ultra). HUGE time saver!

The first thing I noticed was that LV SOC @ 50%. So I went for a 10 minute drive and LV SOC climbed to 60%. (Days in service is low b/c I did a BMS reset after some threads suggested it might fix the premature sleep issue.) So I put a 1.5A Battery Tender charger on it to see if I could get the LV SOC up higher, but after 30 minutes all it did was drop a little. Then I noticed a -6A draw (with the vehicle off, but probably wide awake) and realized that all the 1.5A Battery Tender charger was doing was reducing the draw/load from the battery by 1.5A, not charging it. So..., now to figure out how much driving is needed to get the LV SOC up to 80%, and then how much it declines with each day of nonuse, and finally - the best way to keep SOC high enough to keep it from going to sleep after three or four days of nonuse.

And yes, I noticed the extra effort you put into the graph styles. Very nice! (I'll probably plagiarize it.)

Thanks again for sharing -- very very helpful!

 

[snakebitten]

Perfect!
I have never seen 110amps from the alternator. 😬
The BMS definitely knows that battery needs a jolt!

If you don't mind burning a little fuel, you do not have to drive the truck.
Just put it in generator mode and leave the FOB in the truck. Door closed.

You should be able to monitor the PIDs from outside the truck and verify that it's charging the AGM, just as if you are driving. If the voltage drops below 14V, put the HVAC fan speed at 5.
That forces a higher voltage on the LV bus.

But I still believe a 2amp trickle charge to get the battery to ~100% is the best thing to do. Be sure you hook the negative cable from the charger NOT to the battery post itself.

 

[Boatwaco]

What an outstanding series of posts. @snakebitten you are a wealth of knowledge and your willingness to share details in coherent and thoughtful ways is amazing.
Makes me smile and makes me happy to see this. Thank you! Enjoy the birthday party Monday!

 

[snakebitten]

Thanks for the kind words, mi compadre.

But honestly, it's really just a hopeless nerd gene, and the Powerboost is like a barrel of candy to a sweet tooth addict.

I truly enjoy the quest to make some sense of the rolling ensemble of technology. And my favorite part is that there's a 3.5 Ecoboost at its heart! Perhaps the best deployment of it yet?

Oh, and I do indeed plan to enjoy that birthday party. Hope everyone does.

 

[Beginer]

What an outstanding series of posts. @snakebitten you are a wealth of knowledge and your willingness to share details in coherent and thoughtful ways is amazing.
Makes me smile and makes me happy to see this. Thank you! Enjoy the birthday party Monday!

Hey @Boatwaco , indeed @snakebitten is a favorite to allot of us. BTW, I believe I have imported MY23 PIDs to my version of the dashboards, A) Ford Colors of what you may have gotten from @snakebitten B) a tow oriented dashboard and c) an economy version. I too have an S22Ultra.

 

[snakebitten]

Thanks for the flattering words.

I'm kinda envious of that 2023 OBDlink Ford package. I heard that it's much larger than the 2021-2022 package, which is already impressive.

The only issue that was described to me was that the PIDs for 2022 changed names and descriptions enough that you couldn't import a dashboard and expect the PID mapping to carry over.

But the biggest disappointment is that I can't get the 2023 package to work with my 2022 truck. So backward compatability obviously works, but not the other way around.

 

[Beginer]

Thanks for the flattering words.

I'm kinda envious of that 2023 OBDlink Ford package. I heard that it's much larger than the 2021-2022 package, which is already impressive.

The only issue that was described to me was that the PIDs for 2022 changed names and descriptions enough that you couldn't import a dashboard and expect the PID mapping to carry over.

But the biggest disappointment is that I can't get the 2023 package to work with my 2022 truck. So backward compatability obviously works, but not the other way around.

I will probably realize that next year 😂 Happy New Year!
PS I still cannot find a working Oil Temp PID in any case 😩

 

[snakebitten]

The user defined oil pressure PID didn't work for you? I can't tell you how relieved I am to have that PID back after switching to mobile app PID monitoring. It drove me crazy and had me plugging in my Ngauge time to time just to see that oil pressure dance was as expected.

Happy new year back at you good sir.