[Beginer]

The user defined oil pressure PID didn't work for you? I can't tell you how relieved I am to have that PID back after switching to mobile app PID monitoring. It drove me crazy and had me plugging in my Ngauge time to time just to see that oil pressure dance was as expected.

Happy new year back at you good sir.

Oil Pressure works, Oil Temperature I cannot find. I suspect something is there as there is a gauge in the IPC of course. I have only looked through a few thousand of the over 10K of PIDs

 

[snakebitten]

As far as I know, there's no PID knowledge available for oil temperature.

Although I think the Raptor has oil temperature readout available in the instrument cluster. So if that's true, even if it's a calculated value, I too would love to have it.

 

[KevFitz]

I have been getting a low 12v battery warning on my 2023 Powerboost Lariat instrument panel. Took it in to the Ford dealership and they did a full check on it and a full charge. They told me the battery checked out fine and could find nothing wrong. 2 days later I started getting the warning again. Then I started getting a notice on the 12" screen when I turned the truck off saying "Please turn ignition off or start engine" acting as if it is in ACC mode. Now I'm not getting either warning and everything seems fine. Any ideas?
View attachment 191904

I have the same thing happening to my 2023. I have trickle charged it about 8 times now in 2 months. Also getting "remote features disabled to preserve battery" on the ford app. Taking it in next week to see what could be draining the battery. Fully Stock truck with only 12K km on it... Will advise what the dealer says to me.

 

[snakebitten]

You might find that you simply have a less than "good" battery.
I remember 15-20 years ago paying a premium for a Motorcraft battery at O'Reilly, when it came time to replace batteries in my SuperDuty trucks.

No more.

I no longer believe Ford sources the same quality of batteries to brand as Motorcraft.
While it's true that the Gen14 F150s are very demanding of the 12V AGM with all the connected services and approach technology, there have been way too many owners who have solved the Jekyll/Hyde behavior of their trucks by replacing the OEM battery with a quality aftermarket AGM.
At some point you have to do your own process of elimination after the dealership keeps coming up short.

Full disclosure:
I am still using my oem Motorcraft in my 2022 KingRanch Powerboost. I'm at day 640-something. But I have been stubbornly diligent at milking more life out of it. For multiple reasons, none of which is to $Ave money. I'm just pathetically addicted to understanding as much as I can about this amazing truck.

 

[prodentite]

I have the same thing happening to my 2023. I have trickle charged it about 8 times now in 2 months. Also getting "remote features disabled to preserve battery" on the ford app. Taking it in next week to see what could be draining the battery. Fully Stock truck with only 12K km on it... Will advise what the dealer says to me.

Found this thread and I'm having the same issue in my 2023 Powerboost. I bought it in March and the original battery died about a month later and the local dealership said it was a bad battery and replaced it but I've been getting the lower 12v errors again and needing to trickle charge more frequently to avoid them and dropped it off at the dealership this morning for them to take another look.

 

[snakebitten]

4 pages long, but this thread is a direct reflection of a significant failure rate of the OEM batteries in Gen14 F150s.

It's true that these trucks can be heavily laden with electronic modules and approach features that tax the battery in certain circumstances. It's also true that the battery management system is rather conservative and presents its own shortcomings for a truck that isn't driven much daily, or worse, sits for days at a time.

But at the risk of sounding anti-Ford, there is mounting evidence that a good quality aftermarket AGM (H7 recommended for size) battery will perform much better than the Motorcraft.

It's also recommended to fully charge the new battery before installing it.

 

[Atlee]

4 pages long, but this thread is a direct reflection of a significant failure rate of the OEM batteries in Gen14 F150s.

It's true that these trucks can be heavily laden with electronic modules and approach features that tax the battery in certain circumstances. It's also true that the battery management system is rather conservative and presents its own shortcomings for a truck that isn't driven much daily, or worse, sits for days at a time.

But at the risk of sounding anti-Ford, there is mounting evidence that a good quality aftermarket AGM (H7 recommended for size) battery will perform much better than the Motorcraft.

It's also recommended to fully charge the new battery before installing it.

Let's say I got myself a quality replacement battery, how would I redo the BCM? Now let's say I bought a quality battery from say NAPA, etc and had them do the replacement. could/would they redo the BCM?

 

[FanaticalKilla]

Let's say I got myself a quality replacement battery, how would I redo the BCM? Now let's say I bought a quality battery from say NAPA, etc and had them do the replacement. could/would they redo the BCM?

I would think Forscan would be able to do so.

 

[Atlee]

I would think Forscan would be able to do so.

I don't have Forscan. And even if I did, I'd probably screw something up. This brave new world and I don't do well together.

A quick story. A few years ago I had 2 tickets for a bowl game in Orlando. Tickets were electronic. I had seen them when I first bought them. Time to go in the stadium, I couldn't find them on my phone. Long story short, a couple behind me had 2 extra tickets in their "wallet". They had all 4 of their tickets scanned and voila, I was in.

 

[Boatwaco]

Here’s a link to a BMS reset posting I have bookmarked, from @Sirikenewtron

If your battery voltage is reading good this may be worth a try, if it doesn't work at least it's super simple to try.
I used this procedure to reset my BMS after replacing my battery recently.

 

[Atlee]

Here’s a link to a BMS reset posting I have bookmarked, from @Sirikenewtron

Thanks. That is in my level of expertise.

 

[KevFitz]

Found this thread and I'm having the same issue in my 2023 Powerboost. I bought it in March and the original battery died about a month later and the local dealership said it was a bad battery and replaced it but I've been getting the lower 12v errors again and needing to trickle charge more frequently to avoid them and dropped it off at the dealership this morning for them to take another look.

Dealer replaced 12v battery. They say all the problems are with the almost dead 12v battery... 1 week and everything seems to be fine...

 

[2016XLT4x4]

The BMS system optimizes charging according to the battery's age. You're better off just leaving it unplugged at the battery as it will not let the battery fully charge at times.
I unplugged the BMS on my 2016 F150 XLT 302A a few days after I bought it brand new off the lot. I had zero charging issues in 107K miles that I had it. Original battery lasted 5 years.
I unplugged the BMS on my 2018 F150 Lariat 502A the same day that I bought it before even driving it off the lot. It now has 124K miles on the odometer. The original battery lasted 6 years.
The reason that I always unplug the BMS is to disable the idiotic Stop/Start function. I've never had to reset or reprogram anything when installing a new battery. Never have had any kind of a charging issue.
I also have a theory about the Stop/Start feature causing wear and tear on things like cam phasers but now I'm really getting off topic.

 

[snakebitten]

I can attest to my 2022 behaving considerably more stable at 12.4V (static) than 12.2V or lower.
And I personally believe it's even more critical for the non-Powerboost truck to have a healthy 12V battery, since they can't get any help from the alternator until the pully is spinning.

The Powerboost can self-boost the AGM from the High Voltage battery by turning on accessory mode before starting the truck.

 

[snakebitten]

The BMS system optimizes charging according to the battery's age. You're better off just leaving it unplugged at the battery.
I unplugged the BMS on my 2016 F150 XLT 302A a few days after I bought it brand new off the lot. I had zero charging issues in 107K miles that I had it. Original battery lasted 5 years.
I unplugged the BMS on my 2018 F150 Lariat 502A the same day that I bought it before even driving it off the lot. It now has 124K miles on the odometer. The original battery lasted 6 years.
The reason that I always unplug the BMS is to disable the idiotic Stop/Start function. I've never had to reset or reprogram anything when installing a new battery. Never have had any kind of a charging issue.
I also have a theory about the Stop/Start feature causing wear and tear on things like cam phasers but now I'm really getting off topic.

I don't think I would Unplug the BMS on a Gen14. Or put another way, I don't think it's as unconsequential as it was for the Gen12/Gen13.

 

[2016XLT4x4]

I don't think I would Unplug the BMS on a Gen14. Or put another way, I don't think it's as unconsequential as it was for the Gen12/Gen13.

Yea, you may have a point there.
I personally would try it anyway just to see what happens but that's just me. 😆

 

[snakebitten]

Yea, you may have a point there.
I personally would try it anyway just to see what happens but that's just me. 😆

I'd be braver myself with a non Hybrid, just to see.
I'd be surprised if it didn't throw codes, to be honest.

 

[EcoXLT]

4 pages long, but this thread is a direct reflection of a significant failure rate of the OEM batteries in Gen14 F150s.

It's true that these trucks can be heavily laden with electronic modules and approach features that tax the battery in certain circumstances. It's also true that the battery management system is rather conservative and presents its own shortcomings for a truck that isn't driven much daily, or worse, sits for days at a time.

But at the risk of sounding anti-Ford, there is mounting evidence that a good quality aftermarket AGM (H7 recommended for size) battery will perform much better than the Motorcraft.

It's also recommended to fully charge the new battery before installing it.

I know this battery in my 69 Cougar uses way less juice then the Gen 14 trucks but I’m going to try a motorcraft battery again. I have faith in them still. The new one has 50 cca more.

 

[snakebitten]

No worries.
My Motorcraft Battery rant was never gonna gain even a modicum of consensus. Not around here, for sure. 😜

If there were a couple of hundred Gen14 owners registered, my rant would have gotten higher regard. Lol

I still don't know for a fact if the Motorcraft battery at O'Reilly is the SAME EXACT battery as my oem. It very well could be. And I replaced every Motorcraft battery I ever replaced with another Motorcraft. For many years.
But when I finally hit 2 years on this one, it's getting something aftermarket. Probably a Napa.
I forget the exact manufacturer, but it is considered quality.

 

[Boatwaco]

How could you @snakebitten even think to buy anything but a Motorcraft battery for your F150’s? Your new, highly gozmo-ed out truck is online more than a 12-year old boy who has his bedroom in Grandma’s basement and she goes to sleep at 4:30 everyday. You know that you’re asking way too much from a battery that is basically 19th century technology to power a 21st century truck. And even if you have to replace it every 2 years, the cost of a battery hasn’t increased near as much as the overall cost of these trucks. Batteries are meant to be replaced - that’s why the cables aren’t welding to the battery. You need to adjust, adapt and stick with the program. It’s Motorcraft or nothing my friend. Motorcraft or nothin’!
Unless your Autozone or Pepboys or local parts store has a sale, get on over to your dealer and fork over the dough for a new, prone to fail, won’t last half the warranty Motorcraft battery! Now!