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It's true there are only a few companies making batteries for all these retailers.

I have been contemplating replacing the battery in my wife's Exploder. Can't go a full day without the vehicle going to sleep, even when I'm trickle-charging it. It's not cold here right now, we were in the mid-50s today. I haven't checked for a drain and seriously doubt that it has one but this battery is not operating as it was in the past in much colder conditions.

It's the OE Motorcraft and is still under warranty as it's got several months before it's 3 years old but I don't want to go argue with the Ford service department and I'll probably just buy a new one from someone.

I always assumed I'd buy another Motorcraft. Scares me to say this but I've been comparing batteries. Warranty per dollar spent it's tough to beat what Walmart offers.
 
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Warranty wise, I don't think you CAN beat a Wal-Mart battery.
It's not pro-rated either, from what I've heard. You gotta a problem, here's a replacement.

So it is tempting from that angle.

I'm a self designated Powerboost battery management test subject though. I have documented a ton of low voltage and high voltage data for some other Powerboost owners. Most of which have battled similar AGM SOC shortcomings. So I have sort of volunteered to compare a well considered aftermarket battery with the same scrutiny as the OEM.

The Napa is a good candidate because it's respected by others that know more about batteries than myself. They classify it as an "East Penn" battery and a fair apples/apples product to the Motorcraft.

Napa themselves supposedly backs their warranty well too.

Oh, and they are located in Temple Texas? I'm trying not to let that bias my decision, but dang if it doesn't add to the pressure? Lol

(So Penn isn't Pennsylvania? Go figure)
 
I mentioned this earlier in the thread, it isn't always about the warranty.

As an example, AutoZone's battery warranty was great and it probably still is, I haven't been around one for a while. When I had one of their top-of-the-line batteries they warranted the battery 3 times over several years (3 years if I remember correctly) with no cost to me and no run-around. These batteries' short lives were probably my fault. I just didn't drive the vehicle and wasn't vigilant in keeping them charged. I'd throw a charger on them every couple of months and that simply wasn't enough. New batteries need to be "seasoned" and driven.

Having said all that, we all know this is true, the best warranty you can have is a warranty that you never need to use. That's how I justified buying Snap-On Tools when I was making a living with my tools. Other than one problematic 1/2" air gun (bad design, real loser) I never had to warranty any Snap-On Tool.

Peace of mind speaks volumes.
 
You need to adjust, adapt and stick with the program. It’s Motorcraft or nothing my friend. Motorcraft or nothin’!
Now I know for certain that very few people read my posts... :sneaky:
 
I mentioned this earlier in the thread, it isn't always about the warranty.

As an example, AutoZone's battery warranty was great and it probably still is, I haven't been around one for a while. When I had one of their top-of-the-line batteries they warranted the battery 3 times over several years (3 years if I remember correctly) with no cost to me and no run-around. These batteries' short lives were probably my fault. I just didn't drive the vehicle and wasn't vigilant in keeping them charged. I'd throw a charger on them every couple of months and that simply wasn't enough. New batteries need to be "seasoned" and driven.

Having said all that, we all know this is true, the best warranty you can have is a warranty that you never need to use. That's how I justified buying Snap-On Tools when I was making a living with my tools. Other than one problematic 1/2" air gun (bad design, real loser) I never had to warranty any Snap-On Tool.

Peace of mind speaks volumes.
Price and ease of service are two things too. I have had a lot of Snap On tool warranty claims but I think my trade is harder on tools then yours.

I will be buying a Costco AGM battery next which will be probably be before next winter as this one is getting weak. Warranty is great because they never reject anything. I’m also usually there 2 times a month. Vs never to a dealership.
 
It appears that there's a crack in the Motorcraft Battery Only armor afterall.
Nah, I haven't bought anything just yet. I probably need to find some Motorcraft stickers. :rolleyes:
 
Nah, I haven't bought anything just yet. I probably need to find some Motorcraft stickers. :rolleyes:

 
I think the battery in my mom's 2020 Explorer just packed up. As far as I know it's original. Doesn't help that it's -44 outside.
After -20 that’s trickle charger season and block heater and oil pan heater for starting. I don’t blame anything for refusing to work at -44.
 
It has all of that installed. Basically, the other day it worked and yesterday it quit trying to lock the doors for remote starting.

The factory battery in my 2014 has been a trooper. It has been having a hard time starting during this cold snap, with tons of cranking to attempt to get it going. I think my block heater isn't working. Had to use the "oil fired block heater" to get it going, and it spent the night in my brother's garage. Need to grab a jack, jack stand and lug wrench and go attempt to troubleshoot it.
 
It has all of that installed. Basically, the other day it worked and yesterday it quit trying to lock the doors for remote starting.

The factory battery in my 2014 has been a trooper. It has been having a hard time starting during this cold snap, with tons of cranking to attempt to get it going. I think my block heater isn't working. Had to use the "oil fired block heater" to get it going, and it spent the night in my brother's garage. Need to grab a jack, jack stand and lug wrench and go attempt to troubleshoot it.
Multimeter across the hot and the neutral if it’s open. You’ve got an issue.
 
owns 2017 Ford F-150 Lariat
I have been getting a low 12v battery warning on my 2023 Powerboost Lariat instrument panel. Took it in to the Ford dealership and they did a full check on it and a full charge. They told me the battery checked out fine and could find nothing wrong. 2 days later I started getting the warning again. Then I started getting a notice on the 12" screen when I turned the truck off saying "Please turn ignition off or start engine" acting as if it is in ACC mode. Now I'm not getting either warning and everything seems fine. Any ideas?
View attachment 191904
I get the same notification. Did you find out anything?
 
Welcome to the forum.
It's a great thread regarding.
You could digest it, or you can purchase a battery charger and manage the SOC of your battery when it gets anemic.

Or purchase a fresh quality AGM and replace your OEM. But you will probably need that battery charger at some point for the same reason you need it now? :)
 
Welcome to the forum.
It's a great thread regarding.
You could digest it, or you can purchase a battery charger and manage the SOC of your battery when it gets anemic.

Or purchase a fresh quality AGM and replace your OEM. But you will probably need that battery charger at some point for the same reason you need it now? :)
Thank you!! I just bought the truck and think I’ll try the dealership since it’s still under warranty. However, I will be getting a battery charger for sure!! 😁
 
Multimeter across the hot and the neutral if it’s open. You’ve got an issue.
Definitely open. Checked with my kilowatt meter and it was using 0.0 watts, with an occasional jump to 0.3. I think that was the neon bulbs in the ends of the extension cord I was using. No continuity with the multimeter. Dropped the lower shield to see if I could follow the cord, but it disappears somewhere behind the driver's side turbo. Guess it's going to the shop for this one. It will be 10 years old this spring and will be due for a cooling system flush and fresh yellow coolant.

Next up, the Explorer. Managed to extract the battery from it. The battery wasn't Chrysler difficult to remove, but it was pretty difficult for a Ford. Bench charger read 7.6 volts. Attempting to charge it overnight. If it's not looking good by morning, I'll be trying to get a new one at Costco.
 
Definitely open. Checked with my kilowatt meter and it was using 0.0 watts, with an occasional jump to 0.3. I think that was the neon bulbs in the ends of the extension cord I was using. No continuity with the multimeter. Dropped the lower shield to see if I could follow the cord, but it disappears somewhere behind the driver's side turbo. Guess it's going to the shop for this one. It will be 10 years old this spring and will be due for a cooling system flush and fresh yellow coolant.

Next up, the Explorer. Managed to extract the battery from it. The battery wasn't Chrysler difficult to remove, but it was pretty difficult for a Ford. Bench charger read 7.6 volts. Attempting to charge it overnight. If it's not looking good by morning, I'll be trying to get a new one at Costco.
Cord could just be broken. I pulled the turbo outlet pipe and was able to ohm it there. My block heater was still intact. Just had to repair the cord.

Best practice if trying to revive the battery. Let it heat up inside before doing so.
 
owns 2017 Ford F-150 Lariat
Attempted to get a battery from Costco. Unfortunately, they were sold out. The tire center clerk said that they had several last Thursday, but by Sunday, they were all gone. Computer didn't show that any had shipped yet, so I had to wait until Monday to keep looking. I went to the dealer and got a battery. They were more expensive than Costco, but cheaper than any of the parts houses. If they didn't have one, Carquest was my next shot.

While trying to lookup the battery online to see who had them and what they cost, I was greeted by some amusing messages. O'Reilly was sold out of their Super Start and Optima H6 batteries. They listed the Motorcraft, but it wasn't available here.
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Napa wasn't sure if the battery was available or not.
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Advance/Carquest had them available, but with the following disclaimer
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All in all, I managed to get it installed, and it wasn't THAT bad. Worst part was probably getting the cowling cover off. Since it's under the windshield, it's where all of the snow melt flows and collects, so once the fasterners were removed, it was still frozen down. There's also a rubber flap the goes around the corner of the hood, which in those temperatures, may as well have been cast iron. Took some work getting it dislodged. I left the cowling cover in the boiler room while I had the battery removed, so I could clean the ice and frozen leaves off of it. I even got the BMS reset, so it's happy.
 
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