Good post! Thanks for the write ups.

 

Thanks for the thorough write up.

 

Thanks for the info, sounds like quite the productive day.

 

Quick follow up.

Found the Fumoto valve! Next oil change it will be on.

I drain catch can every Saturday. First time since adding the Wagner intercooler. It is now in the 60s/70s as well. I got a little bit of fluid, far less than normal and it appeared to be just water. Do not know if this is from Wager, warmer weather or combination of both. Will see what this Saturday holds.

Oil is still be analyzed, no update.

No leaks from the Mag-Hytec. Great cover. Need to pull the dipstick magnet and see if anything is on there already.

 

Glad to see you finally found your Fumoto Valve.

I too had nothing in my stock intercooler when I changed mine the day after yourself. I too had installed a catch can early on.

I have been monitoring my IAT2 temps and it's amazing how much cooler it runs, even in WOT. And, how quickly it will cool down now, even if I stopped for about 10 minutes and the restart.

 

Sounds good boys, if I knew wha' y'all were talking about. IAT2? Something is cooler since ye installed a catch can? A catch can made something run cooler? BOV? Oh me boys, it hurts getting into geezerhood. I've pulled engines, done a bit of shade tree work in my day, but I'm talking about flat head sixes and one flat head V8. A few overhead valve inline sixes, etc. Reckon I could look all this stuff up, me old haid is spinnin' I tell ye.

 

IAT2 is the temperature of the air after it has passed through the inter-cooler (CAC) the stock cooler's are partially defeated to help defeat condensation issues, After installing aftermarket coolers everyone sees better (lower IAT2's) as the aftermarket coolers are more efficient. SOme people have collected less in their catch cans after adding an aftermarket cooler as well.

 

My s#!t is about to blow up!!

Here it is gentlemen. They did not show any of my comments or make direct remarks to my comments that I filled in on paper work, I am not sure why?

This is first oil change from factory fill. Change was done @ 800 miles on factory fill on 10/4/2014 and ran till 4/2/2015 @ approximately 3300 miles. This is 2500 miles total and 180 days exactly. Oil life monitor was set to 100% and when I changed it on 4/2 it read 33%. I have under 5 miles trip(s) (short commute, 2-4 times a day depending on day of week), higher idle times (to let warm up a bit in winter) and drive very lightly on gas, letting shifts occur by 2k.

If you read my post, I also run RX catch can. Drainage smells severely of gas always, however oil dip stick remained within hatch marks.

I am only concerned with the fuel level and Silicon level. The other metal wears is due to the engine being new and still getting break in done, IMO. Does this break in period apply to the silicon levels too or is this due to K & N filter? We shall see on next analysis. If it continues to be a worry, I will put factory air filter back in, which I have sitting here in a box and see if it fixes the problem.

I am not sure what their last sentence means, "Please provide missing FLUID PRODUCT NAME to compare data to the correct standards" ? EDIT - This is the product code for Amsoil, the 5-30 in my case is ASL I believe.

Will take recommendation to change fluid earlier. I will change when computer reads 50% and send for sampling again or when I reach 1500 miles on this change.

What's everyone thoughts?



View attachment Oil Analysis 1.pdf

 

My s#!t is about to blow up!!

Here it is gentlemen. They did not show any of my comments or make direct remarks to my comments that I filled in on paper work, I am not sure why?

This is first oil change from factory fill. Change was done @ 800 miles on factory fill on 10/4/2014 and ran till 4/2/2015 @ approximately 3300 miles. This is 2500 miles total and 180 days exactly. Oil life monitor was set to 100% and when I changed it on 4/2 it read 33%. I have under 5 miles trip(s) (short commute, 2-4 times a day depending on day of week), higher idle times (to let warm up a bit in winter) and drive very lightly on gas, letting shifts occur by 2k.

If you read my post, I also run RX catch can. Drainage smells severely of gas always, however oil dip stick remained within hatch marks.

I am only concerned with the fuel level and Silicon level. The other metal wears is due to the engine being new and still getting break in done, IMO. Does this break in period apply to the silicon levels too or is this due to K & N filter? We shall see on next analysis. If it continues to be a worry, I will put factory air filter back in, which I have sitting here in a box and see if it fixes the problem.

I am not sure what their last sentence means, "Please provide missing FLUID PRODUCT NAME to compare data to the correct standards" ? EDIT - This is the product code for Amsoil, the 5-30 in my case is ASL I believe.

Will take recommendation to change fluid earlier. I will change when computer reads 50% and send for sampling again or when I reach 1500 miles on this change.

What's everyone thoughts?



View attachment 34045

I also do not believe in Ford's recommended 10K oil change schedule. I have a catch can, and it catches about a quart of gunk (gas, oil and water) per 3000 miles which would otherwise have been recycled through the EGR system or coked on the intake valves. The volume is definitely weather related) I just don't believe that the cam phasers, or timing chain get enough lubrication with such diluted oil even with synthetic.

 

I would show that to the dealership and have the fuel in oil TSB done. I believe it involves replacing the HPFP O ring.

Also the short commutes can cause high fuel content. I would go for a long drive and then maybe resample.

 

Yes, although there have been issues with this. The TSB for rising oil due to fuel is adding a heater plug in, which requires pulling turbo yet the dealer will not replace the O ring on HPFP. I will see what happens on next analysis first. I would have guessed with a leaking o ring, there would have been rising oil levels. Right now I am leaning toward fuel levels being due to the idle/short commute.

Now that summer is approaching, I will be driving more to various events. Will see if that helps.

Why doesn't MFT show up with a "warning, danger to manifold" like in fast and furious if my fuel level is so high? That is the real question.

 

Also the comments says "Fuel dilution caused viscosity to decrease MODERATELY" does not say severe there. I wish they would say what the viscosity is now at.

 

Yes Amsoil 5w-30 is ASL. The only thing I see wrong is that the fuel is above 5% dilution. Silicon is dirt, most likely from the contaminates of the build. Break in should reduce the silicon as well as the metals numbers seen. No need to panic about the fuel dilution as the Viscosity is still up there, Wear Metals are low, the TBN is good, and the Oxidation and Nitration levels are still low. All signs that the oil is doing it's job, in spite of the fuel present. Fuel is only detrimental if it breaks the oil down, and the ASL clearly is holding up.

I recently got the same report of >5% fuel dilution in 2500 miles on the oil, (I don't make many short trips, and I don't idle a lot). Took the truck to the dealer, and asked them to check the injectors and the HPFP. (I had the TSB for fuel in oil done last year). They loaded the latest update for the ECM as per the latest update to the TSB. Refused to even look at the HPFP or injectors. I did not change my oil, and will resample again with the oil at 5k miles on it. AMSOIL is aware of the dilution issues in these engines, and tells me that they still guaranty the oil for 15K miles. If the oil causes a failure Amsoil will pay for repairs. http://www.amsoil.com//lit/g1363.pdf

I am going to keep testing on the same oil until the oil is no longer doing it's job. We will see exactly how far it can go with the dilution #s I am seeing. Also keep in mind that unless there is a mechanical issue such as injectors or HPFP, fuel dilution is NOT linear, meaning it doesn't occur at the same rate all the time. Just because it was 5% in 2500 miles over the winter doesn't mean it will be 5% over the summer. Different temps, idle times, driving habits, rpms, etc... all contribute to the issue. The report does not say to change the oil it says resample at half interval. You can update the Fluid Product Name and Filter micron rating at eoilreports.com The Filter Micron rating is 20.

 

"Also the comments says "Fuel dilution caused viscosity to decrease MODERATELY" does not say severe there. I wish they would say what the viscosity is now at."


Look at the Fluid Properties on the report... Viscosity @100c = 8.6 TBN = 5.49. Still good numbers.

 

"Also the comments says "Fuel dilution caused viscosity to decrease MODERATELY" does not say severe there. I wish they would say what the viscosity is now at."


Look at the Fluid Properties on the report... Viscosity @100c = 8.6 TBN = 5.49. Still good numbers.

I meant an equivalency, like the oil is now equal to 5-20. I looked briefly into the Viscosity, I found 100c for cars and 40c for equipment is normal testing. I did not see what exactly 8.6 cSt means. I also do not know what your TBN base number 5.49 means. Do you have any articles that explains all this?


You're saying even with this fuel dilution, there is no worries here? If the oil loses too much viscosity, engine would eat bearings.

 

TSB 15-0003

http://www.f150forum.com/f70/p0016-strikes-another-one-288124/index2/#post3980072

See post 18.

 

Trailboss, what about Amsoil 0-40w they just made for the Fiat cars?

 

Also, any pictures of the PCV valve and where it is at? When putting catch can on, the two line we pull, there is no valve, it is just tubing with quick connects if I remember correctly.

EDIT- is it the grey barb on the driver side you slip hose onto?

Edit 2- the TSB trailboss links to doesn't mention anything about checking o ring on HPFP, only replacing the valve, brake hose and new flash. Lame.

 

Also, any pictures of the PCV valve and where it is at? When putting catch can on, the two line we pull, there is no valve, it is just tubing with quick connects if I remember correctly. EDIT- is it the grey barb on the driver side you slip hose onto? Edit 2- the TSB trailboss links to doesn't mention anything about checking o ring on HPFP, only replacing the valve, brake hose and new flash. Lame.

The PCV is on the passenger valve cover.

Ya I read that. Must have been a previous version that they changed the o ring, or it was just a customers invoice I had seen.

 

TBN is Total Base Number. TBN is the ability of the oil to resist contamination and acid formation. Oil starts out with a High Base Number meaning it is on the Alkali side of PH. As acids and contaminates form the number drops. ASL starts out at 12.6 TBN but the additive package is purposely designed such that the number will drop rather quickly to the numbers you see in your report, and then level out at about that level for the remainder of the oil life. As long as the TBN is above 1 the oil still is still able to perform it's function as it relates to the resistance to acids.

Viscosity of ASL starts out at about 10.4 @100c. Most common 5W-30 oils on the market start out in the 9-10 range and quickly shear to the 6 - 7 range. Your viscosity is still at 8.6 plenty of Viscosity to resist wear. 8.6 is the starting viscosity of Amsoil ALM 5W-20, so basically you have sheared down 1 viscosity grade. As long as your Viscosity at 100c stays above 6.1 it is fine. Below 6.1 drops it more than 2 viscosity grades and that is the minimum industry acceptable standard. My past reports have shown that the viscosity will not drop much more (if any) and your fuel dilution will likely not climb much more either. I get the same dilution at 5k miles as I had at 2.5k miles. Like I said the dilution is not linear.

I would recommend changing oil at 5k miles if you are not comfortable going longer. Sample at the time of the oil change. If you are comfortable (I am) just resample at 5k miles and wait to see what the results are. I will get there long before you do, so I will share my latest reports of 2.5k and 5k miles on the oil when I get the 5k mile report done within the next month or so.

You can read more about Typical Lubricant Guidelines in the Oil Analyzers Users Guide to Oil Analysis Services starting on about page 11 of that document.

The Technical Properties for the virgin ASL 5W-30 can be found in the data bulletin at: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf You can call me if you would like to discuss over the phone.
(765)409-9023

 

TBN is Total Base Number. TBN is the ability of the oil to resist contamination and acid formation. Oil starts out with a High Base Number meaning it is on the Alkali side of PH. As acids and contaminates form the number drops. ASL starts out at 12.6 TBN but the additive package is purposely designed such that the number will drop rather quickly to the numbers you see in your report, and then level out at about that level for the remainder of the oil life. As long as the TBN is above 1 the oil still is still able to perform it's function as it relates to the resistance to acids.

Viscosity of ASL starts out at about 10.4 @100c. Most common 5W-30 oils on the market start out in the 9-10 range and quickly shear to the 6 - 7 range. Your viscosity is still at 8.6 plenty of Viscosity to resist wear. 8.6 is the starting viscosity of Amsoil ALM 5W-20, so basically you have sheared down 1 viscosity grade. As long as your Viscosity at 100c stays above 6.1 it is fine. Below 6.1 drops it more than 2 viscosity grades and that is the minimum industry acceptable standard. My past reports have shown that the viscosity will not drop much more (if any) and your fuel dilution will likely not climb much more either. I get the same dilution at 5k miles as I had at 2.5k miles. Like I said the dilution is not linear.

I would recommend changing oil at 5k miles if you are not comfortable going longer. Sample at the time of the oil change. If you are comfortable (I am) just resample at 5k miles and wait to see what the results are. I will get there long before you do, so I will share my reports of 2.5k and 5k miles on the oil when I get the 5k mile report done within the next month or so.

You can read more about Typical Lubricant Guidelines in the Oil Analyzers Users Guide to Oil Analysis Services starting on about page 11 of that document.

The Technical Properties for the virgin ASL 5W-30 can be found in the data bulletin at: http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf You can call me if you would like to discuss over the phone.
(765)409-9023

This is a great explanation. I will make a note of those numbers I want to stay above. You say if it is above 1 TBN, it is ok. Would not 7 be better than 1?

Just to clarify, you're saying this oil had another, at minimum, 1250(2500/2) miles in it at its current rate? Again, computer monitor stated 33%, My goal was to change by 30% due to this being first oil change.

Based on what you say, maybe I will go 6 months again and see what happens, wait till fall. My plan was to only go 1500 miles, change and sample again.

What are your thoughts on the 0-40? Running it in ecoboost.

 

I have not tested that one yet. I am currently testing the 10W-30 ATM but I would not hesitate to use the 0w-40 AZF. My plan is to test the 0w-30 AZO as well as the 0w-40 AZF but It takes time. I only have the one vehicle to do my testing.

TBN is just as effective at 1 as it is at 7. As long as there is base it is protecting against acid. You can resample at 1500 miles, I will be at an additional 2500 wihin a month so I will share my results with you, and that may help you in your decision of when to sample.

 

40 would give even more protection from the fuel dilution correct? I just wonder if it would be any issue for the engine tolerances.

Based on your information, I am going to go through the summer more than likely and not change early. I have no way to sample fluid until I drain it.

Does this AMSOIL Oil Analysis Pump pump allow to hook to dip stick tube to pull oil out for sample? I took my sample mid drain from pan.

 

The pump works great I use it all the time. Basically measure and cut a piece of the tubing about two feet longer than the dipstick, then mark the tubing at the length of the dipstick and insert tubing into the dipstick tube up to the mark and pump the sample bottle full. In these trucks you will need to cut the bottom of the tubing on about a 1" taper to get it through the dipstick tube and in to the pan.

 

So it holds fluid in the tube at a vacuum, then you pull the tube out and fill the bottle?

 

UPDATE- Here is one week of driving with temps in the 60/70's

Almost nothing. I do not know if that is from warmer weather or a combo of warmer weather+new intercooler. It still WREAKS of raw gas. From fall when I bought truck and put catch can through end of February when it was still colder, I would fill up 1/4-1/3 of the same bottle pictured above in one week, which is a 32oz container. I filled three of those in 180 days, from October-March.

Relating to the TSB, as i was draining, i looked on my passenger valve cover. My truck, built before the TSB date, still has a brown PCV valve. So that is newest. If i get the TSB done, looks like they would just replace brake booster line (no idea what this does) and flash latest tuning. So for those of you who run a aftermarket tune, this TSB does absolutely nothing for you.

I also went on a long cruise yesterday, filled up with some gas. Drove straight to internet after a little bit of in town driving. Spent about 15mins on interstate at 65-70, got my MPG reader up to 18.5. Couldn't believe my eyes, maybe decent MPG is possible in these things after all. It has already dropped to 16.0 after running a few errands today though.

 

I checked the dipstick on the Mag-Hytec cover. The drain bolt and drip stick end are both magnetic on this cover.

I installed it about 300 miles ago? with new Amsoil fluid. To my surprised the tip of the dip stick/magnet has a good amount of crud on it. Whether that is left over old stuff just getting picked up or new stuff, I don't know.

So for those of you who believe the factory fill is lifetime/150k miles. Good luck.


Also, another week of draining catch can. Same as picture above. Almost nothing came out.

 

Thanks for the updates!

 

Just reread.
So with Amasol in these trucks, how long is the change interval?
If i can go 7k with Amasol, and Mobil1 one is 5k, it would make sense to spend the money.

 

So I believe the amsoil letter wanted me to go another 1250 miles (half of 2500) and re sample.

Trailboss says go 5k before changing because his fuel dilution does not sample differently between 2500-5000. Again my sample was only in the winter months and short commutes, that is rough on oil. I am going to change again before winter and send sample in. We will see how many miles I get to then. I would rather spend the money on oil than an engine and all the down time with it.

 

Update- Still hardly anything from catch can from this week. i watched it drain and it was dark brown.

I took my first "long trip" with the truck. 72 miles to a location, 72 miles back. When I first started truck in morning, it was still in 60's, MPG reader says 15.4. With a couple minutes of idling, it dropped down to 11.2. This is why it is hard to trust this because idling = 0 mpg and will cause the display to drop significantly, when in reality you aren't using hardly any fuel. That being said, on the first leg of the 72 miles, the reader went up to 19.5. On the second leg when I pulled in driveway, it was at 20.6. So these trucks can get good mileage, I was wrong. That being said, if the reader stays above 15 this work week in town, I will be surprised. My next test will be to reset MPG reader while at cruise to see what it is actually getting on the interstate only. I am going to guess 24!

The trans temp did not go above 195 the whole time either.

The more I detail this truck, the more i notice factory paint flaws. Not very good job.

Also forgot to add, checked K and N filter. The intake piping it completely spot free. The air filter lid is spot free and there is nothing coming out of CSS tapped into lid that others have reported. Filter is still clean, seemed dry though. May pull out and spray a light coat of K and N oil on it just to be safe. The bottom of lid had what looked like salt residue left over from winter, probably from moisture evaporating and leaving the salt.

 

Quick update- people have said the gallons used is not true on here. My last fillup the pump said 17.6 gallons. The digital readout said 17.6 gallons used, exact match.

Checked my oil, it is at the top hole, where it has always been. Not smelling as strong of gas, be interesting to see what this analysis says in fall.

I also added some Amsoil PI fuel system treatment, just cause. Using whole bottle at 20 gallons.

 

So, at this point, change at 5000 miles according to your test results?
What happened to trailboss? He hasn't posted in a couple months.

 

Yes, MAX. I would only go 5k on the best oils though. I think my summer oil will be in better shape.

I am not sure, I PM'd him asking him where he's at hoping he would see an email and haven't heard back.

 

I had TSB 14-0134 done. Truck would only make noise going from park to drive and continued to get worse. Shifting to reverse was always very harsh.

The paper work does not give part numbers but says on comments "diagnosed and replaced valve body pre tsb 14-0134. reprogram relearn retest all quite"

According to the TSB sheet, which can be found in pdf form on Google, gives three part numbers for this according to your build date. My build date is 3.3 and the sheet says for that FL3Z-7A100-E - Main control assembly (build date 3-1 - 3-15). The other two parts are separator plates, I am not sure why the separator plate is not all the same part number?

No more buzz and going to reverse is a lot better.

To me main control assembly sounds like electronic, computer, not valve body? or maybe that is the name for the whole valve body? Can anyone confirm? I will try to confirm part number at the dealership