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Turtle wax ice Seal and Shine

8.1K views 14 replies 6 participants last post by  GearHead_1  
#1 ·
I used a lot of Clean Slate soap to remove everything off my truck yesterday. Still had some contamination I could see from it being parked next to a foundry. I don’t have a garage and July in Texas doesn’t make good paint prep weather. So I used some Meguiars cleaner wax I had and it actually removed a lot more than I thought it would. This morning early I hit it with some Meguiars ultimate quick detailer for black paint and it’s looking a lot better. I at least have someth on it for protection until the weather is good for a complete paint prep.
Then I moved my truck to the side and started on my wife’s new to us car. When it showed up on the truck a few weeks ago I said I can make it look better than that. Nice red color.
I used a Chemical Guys Citrus wash and shine that warns if you use to strong it will strip wax.
What ever the dealership had on it came off anyway and had some sticky stuff on the outside glass.
I dried it and grabbed the Turtle wax Ice Seal and Shine that I’m planning on using on my truck.
Has anyone any experience with this product? I kept the car shaded but the surface temperature was still warm. I could not buff the stuff off to save my life. I tried really small areas too. I ended up taking the towel i appl it with in one hand and my removal towel in the othe and going back to what I couldn’t buff of and wiping the area with the damp towel and immediately followed with the buffing towel. This worked but was a pain.
Its supposed to be easy wipe on wipe off. Was I applying to much maybe? Or was it the 100 degrees temperature. And after detailing the rest the does look a lot better than the day it showed up.
Wife’s happy so that made it worth it.
Id just like to know if I was applying incorrectly or if the weather got me?
 
#2 ·
I've used it, and most other similar products, there's some tricks I learned.
With the seal and shine I found it definitely helps to do on as cool of a vehicle as possible but the biggest thing I found was to dilute it with distilled water. I've even gone down to just a little over a half bottle and filled back up with distilled water and it still works great.
 
#3 ·
I've used it, and most other similar products, there's some tricks I learned.
With the seal and shine I found it definitely helps to do on as cool of a vehicle as possible but the biggest thing I found was to dilute it with distilled water. I've even gone down to just a little over a half bottle and filled back up with distilled water and it still works great.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing I may mix me up a solution then. I need to do my F150. It’s Shadow black and the surface is never cool this time of year.
 
#7 ·
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#8 ·
I’m I the only one that clay bars any more? Seems like nobody mentioned it before they started (besides washing)
 
#12 ·
I still spot clay, particularly useful for blooming most noticeable on white vehicles. If I'm doing the whole vehicle I use a clay mitt or clay cloth these days.
Especially with pine blooming. I clay the top and glass twice a year and sides once.
 
#13 ·
I'm not familiar with the "pine blooming" term. Is that pine sap? I was referring to embedded brake dust and the like.
 
#14 ·
Totally missed that lol. No just yellow pollen that comes them. The sap comes when the cones are green or at a branch break.
 
#15 ·
I'm just wasting your time here.

I'm sure most everyone knows this, but when iron filings, brake dust, and other ferrous metals get embedded in the paint it can rust. In the beginning, these get kind of a reddish halo around the particle that grows the longer it's there. Hence the term blooming.

A little IronX or equivalent, followed by some good clay, there are plenty of bad ones, makes short work of these.