[WooBoost]

Not true, the Fram Tough Guard filters have a higher efficiency rate than the MC and their build quality is good including a silicone ADBV. Do not confuse the Tough Guard and Ultra Synthetic filters with the the Fram Extended Guard (otherwise know incorrectly as the Orange Can of Death). I would agree that the MC filter is better than the Extra Guard, but it is not a better filter than the Tough Guard and nowhere near the filter that the Ultra Synthetic is.

People believe what they will believe. I know what I am using works and provides equal or greater protection than the OEM Motorcraft filters and oil.

That could be true, but with how many tests I have seen on fram and the complete failure of them, I will never run anything by them even if it now tested the best.

My opinion is no oil/filter company should make less quality products because consumers are dumb.

 

[bikewhisperer]

That could be true, but with how many tests I have seen on fram and the complete failure of them, I will never run anything by them even if it now tested the best.

My opinion is no oil/filter company should make less quality products because consumers are dumb.

Plenty of documentation on torn media in Purolator and Motorcraft (made by Purolator) filters floating around the car and oil forums too...

 

[winchested]

I was running a fram ultra synthetic filter. When my engine start up rattle started. The anti drain back valve failed thus allowing the prime to bleed down over night on the filter. They are ****.

 

[outlaw25]

Not true, the Fram Tough Guard filters have a higher efficiency rate than the MC and their build quality is good including a silicone ADBV. Do not confuse the Tough Guard and Ultra Synthetic filters with the the Fram Extended Guard (otherwise know incorrectly as the Orange Can of Death). I would agree that the MC filter is better than the Extra Guard, but it is not a better filter than the Tough Guard and nowhere near the filter that the Ultra Synthetic is.

People believe what they will believe. I know what I am using works and provides equal or greater protection than the OEM Motorcraft filters and oil.

As you stated we all have our preferred products.
BUT, if you have a problem and you take your proof of purchase to the dealer and they say that the problem, if something happens, was due to a sub-par filter, is Fram gonna step to the plate for you????
Because if there is a problem with engine failure that can be attributed to lubrication and they deny you warranty, the burden of proof is on you not the dealer.
That means it is up to you to prove to them that the filter could not have been the problem. Believe me, I've been there and it sucks and you don't want to take the chance.
I know if I have a problem and I provide them with all my OEM filter receipts they will not question the validity of the filter.
More and more repair shops are saying that the OEM filters, air, fuel, oil are far superior to many of the aftermarket products.
I don't know if it is true or not, but I've been down this road with my wife's last vehicle and it cost US a new engine.

 

[Krull]

Rotella 5w40 T6 in the summer and Mobil1 Synthetic 5w30 Extended in the winter, I never go over 5000 miles. Motorcraft filter. Have avoided FRAM my whole life, I laugh when I see FRAM oil filters on performance engines. I guess I laugh at FRAM in general.

 

[milesej05]

I used to run T6 in my Legacy GT but after a while I started to have a few *odd* engine shakes. I'm not blaming the oil at all, but more of the opensource tuner that attempted to tune the car. After a few months of having it tuned by him, I heard of numerous people having catastrophic engine failures from his tunes.

 

[andrewscag]

I've been having trouble finding NOACK, TEOST, or TBN figures for motorcraft's full syn, but some reading on bobistheoilguy suggests that it's very similar to or the same as Kendal gt-1 euro. Since that looks like a good oil for the ecoboost I'm switching to motocraft full syn if its significantly cheaper than the mobile 1 I've been using. If it's about the same I'll stick with mobile 1 ep or regular

 

[coletrain]

I've been running Shell Rotella T6 5w-40.
Truck seems to love it.
Engine guts still looked brand new when I had my valve covers off two weeks ago.

I keep thinking about this. I think i saw this as one of the cheapest oils at autozone the other day. Is my memory wrong? Do you think its a quality oil and that was one heck of a sale, or do you think its a good value?

 

[scap99]

I keep thinking about this. I think i saw this as one of the cheapest oils at autozone the other day. Is my memory wrong? Do you think its a quality oil and that was one heck of a sale, or do you think its a good value?

It's a great oil.
I pay roughly $20 for the big jug.

 

[Boosted11f150]

I pay $21.47 for a gallon jug of rotella t6and u get a 5$ mail in rebate when I buy it at Walmart !! Awesome oil, started using it when my tuner suggested it!!

 

[milesej05]

I pay $21.47 for a gallon jug of rotella t6and u get a 5$ mail in rebate when I buy it at Walmart !! Awesome oil, started using it when my tuner suggested it!!

I hope you are buying more than the 1 gallon jug when you change your oil.

 

[Gremlin85]

I was under the impression that Rotella T6 was more of a Diesel Oil because of the high Zinc content in it. A lot of Zinc with some oil consumption is bad for cats. Causes catalytic poisoning and O2 poisoning which can throw a P0420/30 code. I was directed to use Pennzoil for a Shell full Synthetic for regular gas engines with cats.

 

[milesej05]

I was under the impression that Rotella T6 was more of a Diesel Oil because of the high Zinc content in it. A lot of Zinc with some oil consumption is bad for cats. Causes catalytic poisoning and O2 poisoning which can throw a P0420/30 code. I was directed to use Pennzoil for a Shell full Synthetic for regular gas engines with cats.

It IS more of a diesel oil, but almost everybody in the Turbo'd Subaru world uses it.

 

[Boosted11f150]

I hope you are buying more than the 1 gallon jug when you change your oil.

of course!!! Cmon dude!!

 

[USMCCpl]

OP, not trying to hijack your thread, but looking for answers as well. I live in NH its cold here. What is the best synthetic oil to run here, and filter, and how often should i chang my oil here in NH?

I was thinking of using mobile 1 ep, filter i have no clue, and frequency of change i dont know either. So please Advise.
Thanks OP

 

[Vozaday]

OP, not trying to hijack your thread, but looking for answers as well. I live in NH its cold here. What is the best synthetic oil to run here, and filter, and how often should i chang my oil here in NH? I was thinking of using mobile 1 ep, filter i have no clue, and frequency of change i dont know either. So please Advise. Thanks OP

I would use a top end full synthetic and the Ford OEM oil filter.

 

[USMCCpl]

I would use a top end full synthetic and the Ford OEM oil filter.

How often?

 

[Vozaday]

How often?

Personally I do it ever 5000miles, which is Fords severe service oil change interval.

 

[Eco-Mica]

Personally I do it ever 5000miles, which is Fords severe service oil change interval.

last change was a little over 200 more

 

[ITboost90]

How often?

Hey Usmc,
I live in RI not as cold but close what I suggest is a Mc filter and PP or amsoil or pen ultra 5w30. This winter I was having issues with fuel dilution because i idle a lot and have a very short commute to work. So i changed at 5000 in Dec and the oil reeks of gas..... So i then went to 3000 mile intervals for winter only. Checking the oil at every fill up and making sure I took the truck out on long drives as much as possible. Getting it hot really helped and I have had no further issues yet. I don't have fuel dilution issues when it's warm and this summer I am gonna run 5 -40 t6 it's cheaper and offers better protection in my opinion. If you drive a lot or have a long commute I would feel comfortable with a 3500-4000 mile drain just watch UR dipstick and smell it often.