Ok so some may know about this some may not but it is something that is coming on strong with many showings at dealerships across America. So as most know it is timing chains that are prematurely stretching causing this startup noise. The news is that there is updated parts out there to address this and Ford now has a TSB on this issue formally admitting to it being a common problem. I go over it all in this video. There is also a link to just how it sounds in the description of the video on youtube. Hopefully more dealers will be willing to dive into the engine with some guidance from Ford now.
Ford F150 3.5L Ecoboost Rattle Upon Start Up- Timing Chain Stretch Issues TSB
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makuloco2000
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Yup yup
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So I have a 2012 FX Screw, and mine has made the noise over the years. Recently, it has gotten worse typically when the truck sits for a few days or more. Last week it did it every morning. Friday, it did it when I left for work. The truck sat from 8am to about 1pm, and when I started it, it ticked for just a split second. I know if it would have sat longer, it would have made the noise longer. I really wasn't due for an oil change just yet, but I changed the oil (5w30 full syn) and added a bottle of Lucus synthetic oil stabilizer. I drove the truck for about 25 miles, then it sat from Friday afternoon until 530am Monday morning. I started it Monday, and it purr'ed like a kitten.
I have just shy of 100k miles on it, and it is almost paid off. I really don't want to spend the money to fix it and I was hoping to drive it for sometime paid off. I had made my mind up before I started it Monday that if it makes the noise, I'm trading it in. I know from reading on here that people don't really care for additives, but this seemed to really help. Am I out of the woods?
I have just shy of 100k miles on it, and it is almost paid off. I really don't want to spend the money to fix it and I was hoping to drive it for sometime paid off. I had made my mind up before I started it Monday that if it makes the noise, I'm trading it in. I know from reading on here that people don't really care for additives, but this seemed to really help. Am I out of the woods?
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I tried the Lucas stabilizer for synthetic, did absolutely nothing for my truck.
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Very odd that your rattle comes and goes like that. Once mine started, it persisted, each and every start, unless I restarted the motor within 10-15 minutes.
only 1,640 into a fresh oil change as well...
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I'm in the same boat. Mine rattles maybe 1 out of every 50 startups. It did it worse than ever this weekend, rattling for probably 4-5 seconds on startup. It's usually very brief. Maybe I need one of rbrown's long blocks.....
Just an update on my post (page 33) - I changed the filter from Mobil1 to NAPA Platinum and the noise has gone away for me. I park nose down (declined) in my driveway and every morning since the Mobil1 was used I had a very bad cold start rattle. When I parked nose up the rattle went away. So I changed the oil and used the NAPA Plat filter this time and the noise is gone. Not saying it's the answer to all your rattle issues, but it sure as heck fixed mine.
With the NAPA filter...are you still parking nose up and the noise is gone, or you're able to park nose down and the noise is gone?
Update: About a months gone by. Made the noise again. Just ordered a raptor...
Update - the noise is a bit more nose down than up with the Napa filter. It's by far better than Mobil1, but not quite as good as the Purolater PureOne filter I used when I first purchased the truck 1 year ago. Maybe I do have the timing chain issue...
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This is a CAM PHASER issue, not chains. Your phasers went bad and are stretching the chain. You will have multiple failures, possibly lock up the engine the longer you wait to fix. Options are spend $3k now to fix for a while, or just trade it in on something else. I recommend trade...
I meant to say phasers, I had my old Nissan Frontier on my mind where the timing chain went bad....
This is a CPO truck so I'm covered up to 100k I believe. I assume yours locked up? How bad did yours sound before it went? Is this only an issue for the F150 ecoboost variant? I haven't heard about this with any other model. I also own a 2013 Flex Ecoboost and that engine purrs...even with the Mobil1 filter.
I have been thinking about selling it tho to just get a "truck" and not a platinum pickup. My savings can then go toward a 2017 Gt350...
This is a CPO truck so I'm covered up to 100k I believe. I assume yours locked up? How bad did yours sound before it went? Is this only an issue for the F150 ecoboost variant? I haven't heard about this with any other model. I also own a 2013 Flex Ecoboost and that engine purrs...even with the Mobil1 filter.
I have been thinking about selling it tho to just get a "truck" and not a platinum pickup. My savings can then go toward a 2017 Gt350...
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No, it's not just limited to the F150 variant. See my posts just a few pages back, starting at #286.
Just throwing this out there - anyone ever try throwing +/- half-can of seafoam in the crankcase and run it for about 100 miles before doing an oil change? I tried it on a maxima with 285k miles and it definitely did something because oil leaks popped up everywhere on that car immediately after. I'm thinking it removed deposits that were sealing potential leaks. Is it feasible that seafoam would clear the plugged gaps in these phasers?
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Mine hydrolocked due to condensate that built up in the intercooler. Definitely further ahead to get a less problematic platform.I meant to say phasers, I had my old Nissan Frontier on my mind where the timing chain went bad....
This is a CPO truck so I'm covered up to 100k I believe. I assume yours locked up? How bad did yours sound before it went?
I have been thinking about selling it tho to just get a "truck" and not a platinum pickup. My savings can then go toward a 2017 Gt350...
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You hydrolocked from condensation? How much fluid was in there? Lol
I'm sorry, but that's complete bull****. You would have to have a partially filled charge air cooler for that to happen.
The only time I've ever seen that happen is when a meth pump relay got stuck, and the intercooler was filled with a gallon of methanol. Upon startup, the meth slugged the two rear cylinders. Another note, the condensation would not remain once the vehicle stopped. The residual heat from the engine bay would bake the condensation off within minutes.
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The one guy on here that did a real detailed thread of replacing his engine because it threw a rod did a calculation(he's engineer) that shows it takes a small amount of fluid to get sucked up in this engine to be enough to not digest IE liquid does not compress and breaking the rod off the bottom of piston like everyone has that has blown up. That is of course different than hydrolock, but still important to know.
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