Woo-Boost's Oil Information and Build Thread
I changed my oil yesterday along with the transfer case, rear end and installed Wagner intercooler.
For the oil, I am 0-2 with the Fumoto valve. The first time it was not threading into the hole, found out they sent me the wrong valve after checking serial number. This time around I thought I had the vavle with me, went to change oil and could not find it. Thought I left it at work, not there either. Not sure where it is!
I also forgot the oil comes out of the pan like a rocket on these truck. Ended up covering my arm in oil since i didn't have the pan back far enough.
The used oil will be sent off to be analyzed. I took sample mid stream from pan. I will update this post and thread when I get results.
For this oil change I also purchased the Amsoil oil filter wrench. These fit on end of filter and you use a 3/8 wrench in the end. This is WAY easier than using a traditional filter wrench than wraps around can and you pull handle. Would recommend everyone purchasing this.
The transfer case, I pulled out my hand pump for. Unfortunately the fluid you use (Amsoil ATF for our transfer cases) is too thin and it did not pump well. I thought I was really screwed at this point having an empty transfer case and no way to get to parts store. I managed to find a mini filter in garage, rig it with a mini hose and thankfully being a truck, there was just enough room to dump the oil directly from the Quart jug into the mini filter.
The rear axle I put a Mag-Hytec cover on with 5 quartz of Amsoil. The factory diff cover had the most RTV gasket from the factory on anything I have ever seen. Ford went nuts with it. The cover is very nice, reusable O ring built in (if you ever take off, you don't need RTV), 2 magnets built in (the drain plug and dipstick) and uses ARP bolts. The only issue with those bolts is it is a damn hex head. I managed (again) to somehow dig up a step down for my 3/8 torque wrench to a 1/4 and use a socket that accepted a hex head. I did not remove the driver side factory fill nut. Mag-Hytec instruction state to fill fluid between lines on dipstick and that matches the factory fill location. You do not want to go over this. For those who reuse stock cover, you check level by fluid weeping out of fill hole.
While doing this job, I also decided to drop spare to give me more room. You must have the factory lug wrench to do this. I actually had to read the owners manual to figure it out.....
Note-TA performance cover has built in support. They also make the Ford Racing 8.8 covers. You might want to go this route if you are running big power and slicks.
Finally the intercooler. This is the best packaged item I have ever received. Pretty sure you could throw it off a cliff and not damage the intercoooler inside. I had the stock intercooler out in 10 minutes, very easy. Upon putting the Wagner in, I mounted the lower bracket to the studs the air dam mounts to. Took me a while to figure my error there after the piping would not reach. You WILL NEED A HELPER to put this thing in. It is a damn tank. I wonder if lead or cast iron is in that thing because it is heavy as hell laying on your back trying to put it in place. I would also like to note, there is a TON of metal shavings in the holes of it when you pull off the rubber cap. I spent 5 mins blowing each of them out best i could with compressed air. I hope no left overs get sucked into engine. I was really disappointed in that part.
I also looked at my stock intercooler. Have had a RX can since 1000 miles. There was zero trace of any fluid in stock intercooler and it was completely dry.
Finally the test drive. I started driving and built up boost to dump. Wanted to make sure the pipes held and the BOV held. It was making a weird noise, not the typical noise. I thought either the BOV was not mounted/leaking or a pipe had come off. I pulled over and checked the piping....all good, then I noticed I had not connected the electrical connection back to the BOV. I hooked it up and it is working fine. If this was not connected, the boost must have went back through the turbos? Make sure you plug that in.
Next up, line x, exhaust and checking stock plugs and regapping them.
EDIT-see post #9 for oil analysis and relating data.
Update two - See post #34
I changed my oil yesterday along with the transfer case, rear end and installed Wagner intercooler.
For the oil, I am 0-2 with the Fumoto valve. The first time it was not threading into the hole, found out they sent me the wrong valve after checking serial number. This time around I thought I had the vavle with me, went to change oil and could not find it. Thought I left it at work, not there either. Not sure where it is!
I also forgot the oil comes out of the pan like a rocket on these truck. Ended up covering my arm in oil since i didn't have the pan back far enough.
The used oil will be sent off to be analyzed. I took sample mid stream from pan. I will update this post and thread when I get results.
For this oil change I also purchased the Amsoil oil filter wrench. These fit on end of filter and you use a 3/8 wrench in the end. This is WAY easier than using a traditional filter wrench than wraps around can and you pull handle. Would recommend everyone purchasing this.
The transfer case, I pulled out my hand pump for. Unfortunately the fluid you use (Amsoil ATF for our transfer cases) is too thin and it did not pump well. I thought I was really screwed at this point having an empty transfer case and no way to get to parts store. I managed to find a mini filter in garage, rig it with a mini hose and thankfully being a truck, there was just enough room to dump the oil directly from the Quart jug into the mini filter.
The rear axle I put a Mag-Hytec cover on with 5 quartz of Amsoil. The factory diff cover had the most RTV gasket from the factory on anything I have ever seen. Ford went nuts with it. The cover is very nice, reusable O ring built in (if you ever take off, you don't need RTV), 2 magnets built in (the drain plug and dipstick) and uses ARP bolts. The only issue with those bolts is it is a damn hex head. I managed (again) to somehow dig up a step down for my 3/8 torque wrench to a 1/4 and use a socket that accepted a hex head. I did not remove the driver side factory fill nut. Mag-Hytec instruction state to fill fluid between lines on dipstick and that matches the factory fill location. You do not want to go over this. For those who reuse stock cover, you check level by fluid weeping out of fill hole.
While doing this job, I also decided to drop spare to give me more room. You must have the factory lug wrench to do this. I actually had to read the owners manual to figure it out.....
Note-TA performance cover has built in support. They also make the Ford Racing 8.8 covers. You might want to go this route if you are running big power and slicks.
Finally the intercooler. This is the best packaged item I have ever received. Pretty sure you could throw it off a cliff and not damage the intercoooler inside. I had the stock intercooler out in 10 minutes, very easy. Upon putting the Wagner in, I mounted the lower bracket to the studs the air dam mounts to. Took me a while to figure my error there after the piping would not reach. You WILL NEED A HELPER to put this thing in. It is a damn tank. I wonder if lead or cast iron is in that thing because it is heavy as hell laying on your back trying to put it in place. I would also like to note, there is a TON of metal shavings in the holes of it when you pull off the rubber cap. I spent 5 mins blowing each of them out best i could with compressed air. I hope no left overs get sucked into engine. I was really disappointed in that part.
I also looked at my stock intercooler. Have had a RX can since 1000 miles. There was zero trace of any fluid in stock intercooler and it was completely dry.
Finally the test drive. I started driving and built up boost to dump. Wanted to make sure the pipes held and the BOV held. It was making a weird noise, not the typical noise. I thought either the BOV was not mounted/leaking or a pipe had come off. I pulled over and checked the piping....all good, then I noticed I had not connected the electrical connection back to the BOV. I hooked it up and it is working fine. If this was not connected, the boost must have went back through the turbos?
Make sure you plug that in.Next up, line x, exhaust and checking stock plugs and regapping them.
EDIT-see post #9 for oil analysis and relating data.
Update two - See post #34
